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Hemi blocks coming back...

Agreed, that why I went with KB. Its about 140lbs for me. Took 15 months to arrive but it finally did. Still sitting at the dealers shop. He hasn't had time to de-crate it and check for any issues.
Due to wk I won't be able to even get down to his shop till April. I did tell him he can post any photos he wants. Maybe he will. If not U definitely will once I get some pictures.

I believe mine was 125-130lbs.
I think my indy block was 110-115lbs.
Can pick it up and bear hug it and put it back of the pickup.
Try that with a iron block.
 
Picked up this block on FB about 3 weeks ago on the cheap !! casting says 426 but its for a 440 headed bolt pattern, just mocking thing up,
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I know most modern engines are aluminum with iron cylinder liners, but i have heard of many aluminum hemi blocks "moving around" machining wise when used on the street. They are mostly engineered for the race track and rebuilt often. My 2 cents only, I don't have one, but would run one myself if for no other reason as weight savings as mentioned.
 
We have used many of the billet Callies/Energy billet SBF blocks, that have a raised cam to accept a BBF timing set/belt drive and front cover, and rear Chevrolet bellhousing bolt pattern for the use of a turbo glide or powerglide. They are works of art... the Mopar blocks can only hope to be the same.
 
Looks like my Callies 4.5" Hemi block will be in my garage on Monday (2/8/21)
 
I don't think the savings is 190. My KB weighs 145 lbs. I'll still take 130 off the nose especially on an ebody that is nose heavy to begin with.

I will add it seems that some mega blocks were heavier. A friends weighed in at 305. Not sure why there seems to be such a range of weights. But regardless I don't ever see a 190lb savings.
 
If you look at Hemi aluminum heads vs iron heads you get 33% weigh saving with aluminum. Assuming the casings are the same.
 
My Mega block weighs 275lbs. So does that mean a KB block weighs 85lbs?
Doug
I don't think the savings is 190. My KB weighs 145 lbs. I'll still take 130 off the nose especially on an ebody that is nose heavy to begin with.
I will add it seems that some mega blocks were heavier. A friends weighed in at 305. Not sure why there seems to be such a range of weights. But regardless I don't ever see a 190lb savings.
From the Bill Mitchell Products article:
"...as-shipped weights are right around the 140 pounds mark which should be about 100 pounds slimmer than a vintage cast iron unit."
I got notified around Christmas that my Wedge block was ready, but unfortunately the only way I could have paid the balance due was to not pay bills. I'm expecting a call again soon, and working towards being ready to pay for it. I've thought about how hard it is for me to spend this kind of money, depending on what my account balance looks like at the time, but every time I think I can just build an "OK" 5XX HP/TQ motor and hope that whoever does it actually picked a good factory block for me to use for the build, ALL of the same reasons for going with the BMP aluminum block still ring true! I'd have a similar investment in parts regardless of a 5XX or 6XX HP/TQ build, or close enough to bug the **** out of me, especially when I get left behind because "I couldn't afford" another 100 HP/TQ...
AND
With the BMP block I have room to grow power output wise, even at 6XX HP and 700 ft lbs torque. Adding a Nitrous Express 150/200 shot to a BMP setup vs a factory block in the same power range is doable vs begging for a cracked block. The cost difference really isn't that much, but the foundation of the BMP block is far superior.
 
Tommy Anderson/Chris Baum
or SuperStockRacer or any other alias he goes by now
the checkbook 'jack-stand' builder
was banned quite a while back
 
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The aluminum/alloy (we don't know how much diff. alloys)
that block should be appr. 40% lighter
then the equivalent steel/iron counterpart,
give or take a '1%-2% point' either way
taking into account for slightly different hardware
& for the thickness of liners/sleeves
maybe different caps material or specific alloys not accouted for etc.

so if a cast-iron equivalent is 275#, take 110# off that = 155#
or 305# take 122# of that # = 183#

usually anything 100#+ off the nose is good
on the front heavy cars
 
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Well, hopefully today. Keep us posted!
 
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