• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Bushing and ball joint install in uppper control arm

JR_Charger

Well-Known Member
Local time
1:51 PM
Joined
Sep 30, 2020
Messages
3,910
Reaction score
6,476
Location
____
bushings-in-01.jpg


Hmm, I don't know about this. I cranked on this one a little too long but a couple of the others folded over too when they were only halfway in. Maybe this isn't such a problem but I'll ask before I push these end pieces in -

bushings-in-03.jpg


The inside pieces are too large to push through the hole for the bushing, so once the bushings are in, they're in.

I have a question about the ball joints too - are they supposed to go all the way down, or just down to the top of the threads, like I have here -

upper-ball-joint-in-01.jpg
 
The upper control arm bushings need to be pressed in all the way or you’ll never get the arm mounted back in the front frame. The upper ball joint should thread all the way down.
 
My ball joints threaded in all the way, but they did not have a non threaded "shank" like section like the one you show?
I don't see how that ball joint can go in any further the way it's constructed.
 
IMO, If the threads are raised and the shank area is at the thread minor diameter, they should thread in all the way.
 
The upper control arm bushings need to be pressed in all the way or you’ll never get the arm mounted back in the front frame. The upper ball joint should thread all the way down.

Yes, I'm just a little, tiny amount worried about the outer lip bending down, especially on the one I pictured. It seems like the rubber is a little deformed. I kind of doubt it will be a problem, at least not for many years to come, but I thought I would check.
 
My ball joints threaded in all the way, but they did not have a non threaded "shank" like section like the one you show?
I don't see how that ball joint can go in any further the way it's constructed.

That's what I'm thinking, surely it isn't meant to go in past the threaded portion?

Perhaps I could use my brain and compare it to the old ones? Well, at least I used my brain enough not to ram in on down with the impact. It's not always easy to listen to the little "this doesn't look right" voice.

edit - I've looked at the original ball joints. It looks like they've got the same amount of unthreaded area at the top two, so I think this is right. I'm going to call it right unless anyone knows better.
 
Last edited:
Agreed. The gap you have needs to go away. Either try tightening them more, if they will?Or get a different set of ball joints. Do you have the special socket for them?
 
I started the ball joints by hand to avoid cross threading, and was going to finish with a torque wrench.

I didn't notice any damage to the control arm threads after removing the old ball joints. I haven't seen them brand new though.
 
A tap is made for the ball joint holes. They are super easy to cross thread. Guaranteed they go all the way in though.
 
I just use a breaker bar on ball joints.
Don't forget the German torque rating: "Gooten Tight"
 
A tap is made for the ball joint holes. They are super easy to cross thread. Guaranteed they go all the way in though.
No there isn't.
Where did you come up with that?
Ball joints are self threading in the control arms.
There is no such thing as a "standard" tap size for threads in a UCA.

Picture.
What NEW, factory UCA's look like.

UCA's New (Small).jpg
 
Last edited:
and NOT with an impact gun...
And Why not?
Guess you never have been wrenching, professionally for a living.
Whats an air gun going to do, in removal, or installation.
Never had an issue with an air gun in over 30 + years in working Mopar suspensions, parts.
Your theory is nothing but an urban myth.
 
WOW... you're on a roll today. I'd like to see that air gun you're using to take one of these out...
beerestoration2015 511.JPG


and the Dart I just bought has Problem Solvers in it for some reason, oh yah the last guy stripped the threads out of the UCA socket.

1969dartswingercleanup 168.JPG
 
Any good "truck" shop mechanic with a 3/4 inch air impact, and a decent air compressor, will handle ball joints, no problem.
Easy peasy.
Or even, maybe, a good, strong, 1/2 inch air impact.
But no air impact, then ya, the big breaker bar, gets the job done.

Why do you suppose a good, official ball joint socket is for 3/4 inch air impact, breaker bar, ratchet?
 
WOW... you're on a roll today. I'd like to see that air gun you're using to take one of these out...
View attachment 1065910

and the Dart I just bought has Problem Solvers in it for some reason, oh yah the last guy stripped the threads out of the UCA socket.

View attachment 1065912
Then upon installation of another pair of ball joints, you just tack weld the ball joint in 3 or 4 spots and it won't be going anywhere in the rest of that cars lifetime.
Been done like that forever, in UCA ball joint replacement.

Air Impact Wrench (Small).jpg
 
Last edited:
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top