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What are my engine options?

Enzo Ocon

Enzo Ocon

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So I've got a 68 Satellite with a 318 that leaks oil out the dipstick tube, puffs a bit of smoke out the tailpipe at stoplights, and runs pretty rough. The consensus is worn piston rings and that would warrant a rebuild. I wanted to take the car to Chicago with me when I go back for school in a little over a month. I know this is not a lot of time. What are my options? Could I get the engine rebuilt in a month? (I assume not). Even if so I would have to find a good place to do it and it would break my bank. Could I trust a junkyard 318 even if all signs point to it being good? I wouldn't want to swap in another 318 only to find out it too has some major internal issue. Or, would it make sense to get a remanufactured crate 318 and slap on all the missing components from my current engine? I was hoping for a relatively easy installation process, as this is the biggest job I have had to do to a car to date. I know this is a lot to do in such a short amount of time, but I cannot leave home without my beloved Satellite. Any insight is appreciated.
 
Getting it rebuilt in a month is only possible IF you can find a competent machine shop that isn't busy.
Here near Sacramento, my machinist retired and only works at the shop a few hours a day. It took me 6 weeks to get the work done on my 383 and I assembled it.
Meeting the time frame you stated is possible but only for someone with tools, skills and a place to do it. I have performed engine swaps and had a car running in a single day BUT that was with every part that I'd need already at hand. The closer to stock, the better your chances are BUT these cars and these engine are not as common as they were 20 years ago. In the early 90s when I was going to the self serve junkyards a LOT, there were rows upon rows of rear wheel drive Mopars. Back then, you had choices! You didn't have to go to three yards or more to find a fender or an engine. Now, you can find stuff but you have to search for it. This means that if you find a used engine that seems like a winner, get it as complete as you can. It sucks to have the engine swapped in only to find that you need a bracket, a pulley or some small piece that holds you up from finishing the job. You can probably use several things from your current engine so do NOT lose anything. Get boxes and small containers to store bolts and brackets.
I have bought whole vehicles just to get parts for a project I have at home. Do you have the space to store a parts car?
Do you have the space to do an engine swap? How about an engine crane? Floor jack? Jack stands?
You are posting a lot about this topic so it is clear that you are motivated.
 
You might consider a crate engine. Looks like a 360 with a mild build is 2300 to 2500. Might be able to do that swap in a weekend. Given machining and parts cost, that's not a bad deal.
 
You should do a compression test before automatically condemning the engine because of various online opinions. A compression test will give you a much more accurate idea of what is wrong. It may be major engine problems. Or maybe not. A compression test is a quick and easy job on a small block.
And a 360 crate engine is not an exact straight swap. You will need the proper oil pan and pickup (318 pans don't fit 360s), left side engine mount bracket, and a torque convertor since the 360 is balanced different than the 318.
 
What sort of budget you have is a quick question. Doing a rebuild or swap in a month is a stretch if you're not experienced rebuilding motors and having it done won't be cheap. Fewer mechanics are around as posted...the two I used to rely on are retired. Has the motor had any work done on it? Tune up, timing, PVC valve, etc.? Yep, a comp check is good to tell you if you have a bad cylinder(s), and you could do a check on possible carbon build up on the valves. Just me, but I'd run an engine cleaner like seafoam through it a couple times and see if that helps. There are oil additives you can run for a few hundred miles and change the oil. I did this on my poly some years ago before rebuilding it running a little marvel mystery oil for a while and engine ran better. I had symptoms of carbon build up on a valve. I did the same in the fuel. No guarantees, but if the motor is old and tired...there's any number of issues to want to be comfy about before driving it a few thousand miles. A j-yard motor is a crap shoot I'd never want to drop it in without rebuilding it anyway.
 
Talk about stress...in one month you need to repair/replace an engine and then drive it 2000 miles to Chicago. Yikes! Better hurry up.

ps...AAA is a must
 
Big Bad Dad said:
You should do a compression test before automatically condemning the engine because of various online opinions. A compression test will give you a much more accurate idea of what is wrong. It may be major engine problems. Or maybe not. A compression test is a quick and easy job on a small block.
And a 360 crate engine is not an exact straight swap. You will need the proper oil pan and pickup (318 pans don't fit 360s), left side engine mount bracket, and a torque convertor since the 360 is balanced different than the 318.
Click to expand...
Oh trust me I am pressed for time but want to weigh every available option before having to do something as big as replacing my engine. I’ve just been working and haven’t had the time to do do a compression test yet. I wanted to get other people’s insight ASAP in case it’s something really bad. Also if I were to do a crate motor I’d likely stick with a 318
 
I'd start looking for another car to take to Chicago.
Driving your 68 that far in March (it could still be snowing, salt etc...) not a good idea.
Patience my friend.
 
slepr1 said:
Talk about stress...in one month you need to repair/replace an engine and then drive it 2000 miles to Chicago. Yikes! Better hurry up.

ps...AAA is a must
Click to expand...
I’m a premier member! Got that 100 mile free towing
 
Look for a lower mile used car with multi port EFI to drive to chicago. Buy one this week, and you’ll have time to drive it and make it reliable.

If you don’t have time to perform a compression test how are you going to find and swap and engine and drive it enough to make sure it’s reliable?
 
Haha that’s a very valid point. Fortunately my time at this job is about to end so I will have free time every day. But it seems like I am way in over my head in general and I have to accept that. I guess I’ll just postpone the road trip.
 
Just some food for thought and considering your money/time deadline etc. Assuming the compression is ok maybe consider doing the valve seals “heads on the motor “ and replace the timing chain and gears if you don’t know when or if the chain was done. 318’s are generally pretty reliable with minor issues.

Just something for you to ponder. You will get this done before you know it. Patients and more patients and laughter helps.
:thumbsup: :xscuseless::popcorn:
 
Is it smoking all the time or just at start up? Just at start up is usually valve stem seals. The dip stick tube is an o-ring. If it runs dependably, just smokes, how much oil are you burning per tank of fuel. Get a case of cheap oil n put it in the trunk. Top off however many miles you need to n then take your time once you're in Chicago n figure out the issues. Rushing leads to mistakes n way too much $$$ in the long run.
 
I think the biggest question here is...

WHY IN HADES WOULD YOU WANT TO GO TO CHICAGO???
 
diesel_lv said:
Is it smoking all the time or just at start up? Just at start up is usually valve stem seals. The dip stick tube is an o-ring. If it runs dependably, just smokes, how much oil are you burning per tank of fuel. Get a case of cheap oil n put it in the trunk. Top off however many miles you need to n then take your time once you're in Chicago n figure out the issues. Rushing leads to mistakes n way too much $$$ in the long run.
Click to expand...
It’s strange, it always smokes at startup so I assumed it was just condensation. But sometimes a puff of smoke comes out the tailpipe when I accelerate after the light turns green at an intersection. But that only happens if I’m in heavy traffic. And you’re 100% right I can’t rush this. I want what’s best for the car and wouldn’t want to damage anything. I just want to have it with me because when I’m away for months with nothing to wrench on I feel really down
 
Slap Stick said:
I think the biggest question here is...

WHY IN HADES WOULD YOU WANT TO GO TO CHICAGO???
Click to expand...
I go to school there! In a nice part of town. I’ll only be there for about two months then I’ll drive back home for the summer
 
64fury74charger said:
Just some food for thought and considering your money/time deadline etc. Assuming the compression is ok maybe consider doing the valve seals “heads on the motor “ and replace the timing chain and gears if you don’t know when or if the chain was done. 318’s are generally pretty reliable with minor issues.

Just something for you to ponder. You will get this done before you know it. Patients and more patients and laughter helps.
:thumbsup: :xscuseless::popcorn:
Click to expand...
Going to do a compression test when I get home! Will update on the results later. And no matter what there will be plenty of laughter I just have to remind myself to be patient
 
Don Frelier said:
I'd start looking for another car to take to Chicago.
Driving your 68 that far in March (it could still be snowing, salt etc...) not a good idea.
Patience my friend.
Click to expand...
You are certainly right, I will be postponing the road trip. I have to remind myself not to do anything stupid that wouldn’t be good for the car... fortunately I don’t actually have to leave in March, that was just when it worked for my buddies who were coming. I’ll just have to find new copilots!
 
I am just trying to give you some ideas and based on your description about what’s going on and finding a way to do the minimum of work and addressing your immediate concerns.
Invest your time and money and then see where you are. The motor will likely improve overall and you can make your trip safely. Changing out these parts is much less work versus changing out what may well be a good running motor, timing chain can make a world of difference and then You know when and how it was done.

Replacing the valve seals without pulling the heads is not too bad. Do the water pump as well while you’re in there just to get that off the potential failure list. I have never had any problem replacing parts that have NOT failed yet. Always cheaper than a tow truck or an engine. Just my opinion.
Please keep us al updated as you put this on your done list.:thumbsup: :xscuseless:
:popcorn::lol:
 
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