Like the title says, who is currently doing this? I used to use "Pampered Corvette" but understand they no longer do this. Any input is appreciated.
D
D
Fan Clutch Rebuild - Who?
- Thread starter Big D A12
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I have heard no, hence my asking.
I may be off base here and have bad information.....
That does not sound familiar to me.
Fred Oliva was working out of Coral Springs, FL and the business was called Vintage Automotive Research.
The Pampered Corvette was based out of RI and not sure if they are still in business.
Darrin, might want to check with these guys as they show to do NCRS Corvette clutch fan restoration and I know that was the back bone of Fred's work. Not sure if Jim Draine might have any knowledge of them as he is in the area.
http://www.kirkconnellcorvettes.com/home.html
The Pampered Corvette was based out of RI and not sure if they are still in business.
Darrin, might want to check with these guys as they show to do NCRS Corvette clutch fan restoration and I know that was the back bone of Fred's work. Not sure if Jim Draine might have any knowledge of them as he is in the area.
http://www.kirkconnellcorvettes.com/home.html
rich hourigan
Well-Known Member
kirkconnell recently restored my fan clutch for my 67 GTX... excellent job and a real gentleman on the phone, even did the date stamps for me... Rich
Rich,
Would you happen to have any pictures of clutch fan prior to and after the restoration. Does he replate the center face and is the rear seal the correct color?
Good to know that there is someone out there doing this type of work!!!
Thanks,
Richard
Would you happen to have any pictures of clutch fan prior to and after the restoration. Does he replate the center face and is the rear seal the correct color?
Good to know that there is someone out there doing this type of work!!!
Thanks,
Richard
I have some questions about troubleshooting the clutch fan.
If you have some resistance while hand turning, engine off, does that mean it’s good?
It seems they have to be stored properly, shaft up, or the fluid leaks out. Is that a sign of a bad seal?
I have some older ones that are unknown if they’re any good.
Edit: I did some searching and found some informative information.
If you have some resistance while hand turning, engine off, does that mean it’s good?
It seems they have to be stored properly, shaft up, or the fluid leaks out. Is that a sign of a bad seal?
I have some older ones that are unknown if they’re any good.
Edit: I did some searching and found some informative information.
Last edited:
rich hourigan
Well-Known Member
Richard, he does replate the center face, i dont have any pics of it but i can look when i get home. im not sure about the rear seal color, what is correct color for this fan clutch seal ?
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WHY not just install a new reproduction clutch assembly? Tony's Parts offers both thermal drive clutch and torque drive fan clutches, that resembles the origional unit in all regards....for approximately the same price (possibly less) as rebuilding yours....
Tony's Parts: www.tonysparts.com. i believe Mancini's Racing does as well. Why wait months. Just about nobody would be able to tell rebuilt origional unit vs a new reproduction unit.....just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON
Tony's Parts: www.tonysparts.com. i believe Mancini's Racing does as well. Why wait months. Just about nobody would be able to tell rebuilt origional unit vs a new reproduction unit.....just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON
A rebuilt unit will likely cost twice as much as the current reproduction. (part + rebuild service) A price many are willing to pay for correct detail. A more accurate statement would be: The reproductions resemble the originals in most regards, not all.
The difference is obvious once you place it next to an original. OEM judges know exactly what to look for when installed on the car. BTW, it has nothing to do with the front face of the assembly. I am happy there are choices we can make in the hobby. I will choose a restored original over the reproduction until they are no longer restored.
Hence the reason for my post.
D
The difference is obvious once you place it next to an original. OEM judges know exactly what to look for when installed on the car. BTW, it has nothing to do with the front face of the assembly. I am happy there are choices we can make in the hobby. I will choose a restored original over the reproduction until they are no longer restored.
Hence the reason for my post.
D
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I have both....an origional # 2806070 fan clutch from my RS23V0A****** GTX and a reproduction unit (from Tony's Parts) with part numbers and date coded as the origional, dimensions, seal color, weight, fin count and appearance, drive shaft coloration and hardware....it would be next to impossible to tell one from the other....without prior knowledge. I just brought it up as a addition consideration.
I also realize just how important origionality is, as I've spent $$$$$$$ for correct date coded NOS Prestolite dual point distributor, 37 amp alternator and Holley carbs, # 2998956 max cooling radiator.
BOB RENTON
Because you don't know how **** Darrin is and how much attention to every detail he gives his cars, lol.
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I definitely understand.....when having my GTX judged, I was down graded because:
Wrong screw was grounded for the windshield washer pump motor
Wrong color for the washer solvent...I had blue color....should have been a pale green color
Heater hose support bracket (right inner fender side) projected too far toward engine
PCV grommet was not painted orange
PS pump high pressure line not orientated "correctly"
No date code on PS pump oil cooler return line
Incorrect date code for PS pump belt (off by one month)
Dana 60 axle part number ID tape too far from left spring perch
Rear end ratio tag incorrectly oriented
Plus a few other "infractions" ......
But.....it guess it depends on your own personal preferences and overall objectives.....
BOB RENTON
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