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Truck Dana rear question

furyus

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I just bought a crap box Ford truck. It has a Dana rear. Has 8 lug, floating axles. Is this a rear that can be converted to performance use in my Fury?
 
I just bought a crap box Ford truck. It has a Dana rear. Has 8 lug, floating axles. Is this a rear that can be converted to performance use in my Fury?
That sounds like a Dana 70 truck rear, not a Dana 60.
 
There are millions of Dana 60 with floating axles.

By crap box do you mean it’s a box truck? Or just a crappy truck?

Is it a single rear wheel or a dually? Plenty of Dana 60 full floaters out there.

This has been debated heavily. Unless you have a rear end narrowing guy real handy and a rear gear set up guy also. I’d just buy a new Strange rear end ready to go to your specifications. Forget all the BS Removing, cleaning, carting it all over town, ordering pieces, parts, axles, etc. just buy one done.
 
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3/4 ton would have a Dana 60 full floating 8 lug
1 ton would have a Dana 70 full floating 8 lug.
Can be converted with new housing end and axles.
Some 3/4T vans had Dana 60 with semi-floating axles.
 
Just hope the crappy Ford didn't have a "Sick-OH" in it!
 
It's a crappy, rusted long bed 1970 Ford truck that I bought for parts. It has plants growing out of it. Single axle, 8 lug. It's no big deal. It will be easier to get rid of with it able to roll. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't getting rid of something I shouldn't
 
Not all Dana 60’s are created equal. Most likely the Ford Dana 60 rear will have 30 spline axle shafts. Mopar equipped Dana 60 cars were 35 spline. You’ll also want a Dana 60 with the mounting pad for the pinion snubber.
 
I would check if it has a Powr Lok or not. It has a Powr Lok and the gear ratio you would like it would be worth keeping and shortening. In a Powr Lok the splines can be changed to 35 and new clutches installed as well.
 
Exactly what I'm doing. If it was easy everyone would be doing it. If you have the money to buy a new complete rear why bother. I don't have an extra $2,500 laying around for a rear when I up to the challenge and I can do the work myself. Do you have the time or MONEY. It's not as hard or expensive as some might lead you to believe.

I just picked up two rears this weekend. One is a Dana 60 full floater out of a 71 dodge motor home with low miles for a LOT less then you might expect. I'm going to narrow and build the rear for a 63 Sport Fury Factory Super Stock project to take a beating with a 545 cubic inch engine in front of it. I had a 64 Polara Ramcharger back in the late 70's early 80's. The first run with a new 440 engine at the track after the 426 bought the farm I broke an 8-3/4 rear. I replaced the 8-3/4 back then with a Dana I put together. IT has been done before. There was no internet or anyone at the time to tell me you couldn't or shouldn't do it. I didn't know any better because I didn't listen then and I still don't listen now to the naysayers.

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Last one I had done cost me $500 to shorten. I bought short axles for $200, used 8 3/4 housing ends for free. I put new bearings in it but used the original gears and they setup well with the original shim packs.
I am tempted to make my own jig if I shorten another one. Paying someone to shorten it for you I figure around $1000, depending on your scrounging skills.
The snubber issue can be beaten by using Cal Tracs or welding a reverse snubber to the floor pan that contacts the nose of the D60 housing.
Store bought is nice but true Hot Rodding involves getting dirty and not following the pack.
 
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If it says "60" like in the pic its it's 60. My car and my sons Turbo car both have Dana 60's that started out as 8 lug. Torch the brackets off. Put a 9" cut off wheel (Lowes / Home Depot) in a miter saw. You'll need to shim the tube up on the saw base with wood so the tube sets square on the table. Leave the tubes as long as possible. There isn't a lot of length left for the long tube (pinion offset). Once the ends are cut off you can set the tube on the saw without the wood to make the final cut. It cuts square and clean. Just take your time. My sons car we measured the back lash before disassembly. It was .007". Just added a spool, ends, axles. Never even pulled the pinion. Cars been 9.55 on the original R&P.
Doug
 
My 60 already has 4.10 gears that appear to be in good condition. I am figuring I don't need gears. To cut the tubes I'll use a Pipe Cutter. Nice square surface without creating dirt. I can fabricate or make some short of a snubber if needed. I made traction bars in Metal Shop when I was in High School. If I get out for less then $800.00 not counting my labor I'll be well ahead of the curve. If I had to charge myself for labor I couldn't afford it, so I don't figure it in the equation. I couldn't afford to pay someone to do what I do to have things done correctly.
 
Same here. Mine was an 8 lug 1 ton truck rear axle also. Changed everything but the housing. Now has ultra lightweight spool, 40 spline gun drilled axles and 5/8" studs.

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Thanks for that. It will help alot. Just wondering, it shows the long tube on the right. I thought Mopars had the right side shorter??

Right side with the rear in the vehicle looking at the rear from behind.
 
Well, I let the Dana go with the truck, when I sent it down the road. Thanks everyone for all your help.
 
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