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What are my engine options?

You are certainly right, I will be postponing the road trip. I have to remind myself not to do anything stupid that wouldn’t be good for the car... fortunately I don’t actually have to leave in March, that was just when it worked for my buddies who were coming. I’ll just have to find new copilots!
Sounds like you've given the road trip in the Sat a re-think... Curious, if you caught my earlier reply, what work has been done on the engine? Been given a tune up? Checked each plug to see what they look like? Ignition system in good shape? P valve good? Is hose in good shape (not collapsed)...just saying as the ills you're describing just might be remedied by these chores and an engine clean out as mentioned...
 
This motor ran good most of the time, but had popping and idle issues and was just not running right. Other times it ran fine. Just food for thought.

64086095-A560-4BC0-AF3F-F51CC1276AE6.jpeg 8E0CBA25-C4F5-432D-97E1-610800B0219E.jpeg
 
The answer to the question really depends on what you want the end state to be. If you want it to remain stock (ish) then repair or rebuilt what you have but that is not a concern then look for a crate motor or maybe even a good Magnum engine from a salvage yard or off one of the various online sales sites. One word here; if you do happen to look for a used replacement find one you can hear/see run before paying for it.
 
Sounds like you've given the road trip in the Sat a re-think... Curious, if you caught my earlier reply, what work has been done on the engine? Been given a tune up? Checked each plug to see what they look like? Ignition system in good shape? P valve good? Is hose in good shape (not collapsed)...just saying as the ills you're describing just might be remedied by these chores and an engine clean out as mentioned...
My apologies, I should have responded sooner. I’m definitely rethinking things. I’m still going to take the trip for sure but won’t go until I’m sure everything is safe and reliable. The oil was changed recently, plugs all seem to be in pretty good shape, pcv valve is good, hose is in good shape, and I am going to check the condition of the points as well as do a compression test tonight
 
My apologies, I should have responded sooner. I’m definitely rethinking things. I’m still going to take the trip for sure but won’t go until I’m sure everything is safe and reliable. The oil was changed recently, plugs all seem to be in pretty good shape, pcv valve is good, hose is in good shape, and I am going to check the condition of the points as well as do a compression test tonight

Hope the comp is good and maybe you can get some plans for what you want to do. Remember to laugh every day. :thumbsup:
:steering: :luvplace: :xscuseless:
 
The answer to the question really depends on what you want the end state to be. If you want it to remain stock (ish) then repair or rebuilt what you have but that is not a concern then look for a crate motor or maybe even a good Magnum engine from a salvage yard or off one of the various online sales sites. One word here; if you do happen to look for a used replacement find one you can hear/see run before paying for it.
I am just trying to give you some ideas and based on your description about what’s going on and finding a way to do the minimum of work and addressing your immediate concerns.
Invest your time and money and then see where you are. The motor will likely improve overall and you can make your trip safely. Changing out these parts is much less work versus changing out what may well be a good running motor, timing chain can make a world of difference and then You know when and how it was done.

Replacing the valve seals without pulling the heads is not too bad. Do the water pump as well while you’re in there just to get that off the potential failure list. I have never had any problem replacing parts that have NOT failed yet. Always cheaper than a tow truck or an engine. Just my opinion.
Please keep us al updated as you put this on your done list.:thumbsup: :xscuseless:
:popcorn::lol:
Did a compression test and wet compression test. According to the service manual the threshold is 125 to 155 psi. All cylinders were around 140 except for cylinder no. 4. It was only at 110. I did a wet compression test on cylinder 4 and the psi did not change at all, still reading 110.
 
Well you obviously have a problem cylinder. Did you by chance hear any escaping air out of the intake, exhaust or into the engine? If you did hear it in the intake or exhaust it is a valve issue, if it was in the engine then its a ring problem.

I go back to my original comment; what do you want the car to be? Personally, I would not spend the time to rebuild a 318 unless it was in a daily driver type thing or had some sentimental value of some kind. I'd dump a crate motor into it without thinking twice especially given how cheap they are these days. I just did a quick search for "360 crate engine" and found them from $2500+ (you would have to factor in shipping), you are going to be hard pressed to rebuild that 318 for much less unless you can reuse most of the components (pistons, crank, etc.) and even then I think you would be pretty close or more than a crate engine.

But to be honest, going to a crate 360 does bring some issues, going to have to get a 360 torque converter and the increase HP might put a hurting on your existing trans unless that has been gone through recently. You could always call around to your local salvage yards and try and find a Ram 2WD with a 5.9 (360) and a A518 trans; then you have better power with overdrive.
 
Dude, the weather sucks here in Chicago right now, leave the car there! We're going to have snow and salt slush till May at this rate
 
Dude, the weather sucks here in Chicago right now, leave the car there! We're going to have snow and salt slush till May at this rate
Well if I have to wait till may to come Due to the weather, I’ll wait! I’ve changed my plans and can adapt- I don’t have to return at any particular time. But I need the car out there for numerous reasons, particularly a movie shoot in early June.trust me, if the weather is really that bad I won’t go until it subsides. Don’t want the car to suffer
 
Well you obviously have a problem cylinder. Did you by chance hear any escaping air out of the intake, exhaust or into the engine? If you did hear it in the intake or exhaust it is a valve issue, if it was in the engine then its a ring problem.

I go back to my original comment; what do you want the car to be? Personally, I would not spend the time to rebuild a 318 unless it was in a daily driver type thing or had some sentimental value of some kind. I'd dump a crate motor into it without thinking twice especially given how cheap they are these days. I just did a quick search for "360 crate engine" and found them from $2500+ (you would have to factor in shipping), you are going to be hard pressed to rebuild that 318 for much less unless you can reuse most of the components (pistons, crank, etc.) and even then I think you would be pretty close or more than a crate engine.

But to be honest, going to a crate 360 does bring some issues, going to have to get a 360 torque converter and the increase HP might put a hurting on your existing trans unless that has been gone through recently. You could always call around to your local salvage yards and try and find a Ram 2WD with a 5.9 (360) and a A518 trans; then you have better power with overdrive.
 
Well you obviously have a problem cylinder. Did you by chance hear any escaping air out of the intake, exhaust or into the engine? If you did hear it in the intake or exhaust it is a valve issue, if it was in the engine then its a ring problem.

I go back to my original comment; what do you want the car to be? Personally, I would not spend the time to rebuild a 318 unless it was in a daily driver type thing or had some sentimental value of some kind. I'd dump a crate motor into it without thinking twice especially given how cheap they are these days. I just did a quick search for "360 crate engine" and found them from $2500+ (you would have to factor in shipping), you are going to be hard pressed to rebuild that 318 for much less unless you can reuse most of the components (pistons, crank, etc.) and even then I think you would be pretty close or more than a crate engine.

But to be honest, going to a crate 360 does bring some issues, going to have to get a 360 torque converter and the increase HP might put a hurting on your existing trans unless that has been gone through recently. You could always call around to your local salvage yards and try and find a Ram 2WD with a 5.9 (360) and a A518 trans; then you have better power with overdrive.
So although I know there’s much more that can be done to make the car more powerful, that is not my concern. I am perfectly happy with the car essentially being bone stock. What are your thoughts on a 318 long block crate motor? I would be able to use parts from the original motor such as the intake/exhaust manifolds, valve covers, oil pan, timing cover, etc, correct? I really just want the car to be reliable. That is my number one concern. Would also be nice to keep it stock so that I could reference the service manual when I need to work on the car. However, I will keep the original motor in my garage for sentimental reasons and maybe one day rebuild it:)
 
Ok given that you just want a reliable driver and don't care about performance really, just rebuild what you have. You can get a 318 short block which are 5.2 magnum motors, it "should" take all of your parts (your engine is a LA engine) but I am not 100% on that (someone here knows for sure).

I will say that while the one cylinder is down, you might be able to get it running well enough for use as a local driver. I've resurrected many cars out of fields, back yards, etc. and seldom if ever did a compression test, got them running and off we went. It isn't the best situation having one cylinder down but it might not be all that bad. Having said that, its possible you could get away with a hone job and get new rings. The problem is that once you open it up it just makes sense to do bearings along with all the other things. But, I will say I have done more than one hone job only deals (we did a lot in high school actually) and reused everything else. Not the optimum way to do things but it can and does work at least for awhile.
 
One cylinder that reads lower that does NOT come up with oil squirted in (wet test) indicates a valve issue. That actually bodes well for you. A set of rebuilt heads may get you back in the game. The low cylinder may have a burned valve, a recessed valve, bad valve guides, etc.
You can do a cylinder head swap in a weekend IF you have all the parts at hand.
 
So one cylinders a tad low. It isnt going to keep it from running. It isnt going to cause a break down. Make the radiator, water pump, ALL hoses and belts and the tires are good. Bring some extra oil and hit the road.
Doug
 
Well you obviously have a problem cylinder. Did you by chance hear any escaping air out of the intake, exhaust or into the engine? If you did hear it in the intake or exhaust it is a valve issue, if it was in the engine then its a ring problem.

I go back to my original comment; what do you want the car to be? Personally, I would not spend the time to rebuild a 318 unless it was in a daily driver type thing or had some sentimental value of some kind. I'd dump a crate motor into it without thinking twice especially given how cheap they are these days. I just did a quick search for "360 crate engine" and found them from $2500+ (you would have to factor in shipping), you are going to be hard pressed to rebuild that 318 for much less unless you can reuse most of the components (pistons, crank, etc.) and even then I think you would be pretty close or more than a crate engine.

But to be honest, going to a crate 360 does bring some issues, going to have to get a 360 torque converter and the increase HP might put a hurting on your existing trans unless that has been gone through recently. You could always call around to your local salvage yards and try and find a Ram 2WD with a 5.9 (360) and a A518 trans; then you have better power with overdrive.
I was pretty close to putting in a 360 crate but couple guys were telling me to be wary of the low cost crates being of poor quality and gina made..
 
Is it smoking all the time or just at start up? Just at start up is usually valve stem seals. The dip stick tube is an o-ring. If it runs dependably, just smokes, how much oil are you burning per tank of fuel. Get a case of cheap oil n put it in the trunk. Top off however many miles you need to n then take your time once you're in Chicago n figure out the issues. Rushing leads to mistakes n way too much $$$ in the long run.

I was thinking about the same....maybe use some thicker oil like 20-50 and a set of hotter plugs and go for it. We used to drive cars like that all the time and thought nothing of it.
 
I am just trying to give you some ideas and based on your description about what’s going on and finding a way to do the minimum of work and addressing your immediate concerns.
Invest your time and money and then see where you are. The motor will likely improve overall and you can make your trip safely. Changing out these parts is much less work versus changing out what may well be a good running motor, timing chain can make a world of difference and then You know when and how it was done.

Replacing the valve seals without pulling the heads is not too bad. Do the water pump as well while you’re in there just to get that off the potential failure list. I have never had any problem replacing parts that have NOT failed yet. Always cheaper than a tow truck or an engine. Just my opinion.
Please keep us al updated as you put this on your done list.:thumbsup: :xscuseless:
:popcorn::lol:
Add some belts and hoses while he's at and a thermostat perhaps.
 
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