Hello, what's the difference between a 440 R block and a RB block. Is it a good block to do a stoker motor. 500 + HP it's been a while and can't remember. Thanks
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440
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Slap Stick
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440 is a RB. Short for raised block. Or tall deck if you prefer as opposed to the 350 (yes)-400 B or short deck.
Can't say as I have ever heard the term R block.
Can't say as I have ever heard the term R block.
About 3/4"...
That's what stamped on the pad.
Slap Stick
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I also see a G and an A.
R/T Boy 67
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M could mean Marine and R could mean right hand rotation. I have a marine block with an M and an L, and it was a left hand rotation engine. All stock 440 blocks are RBs.
Can you use the block. I'm going to rebuild anyway.
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I thought R was regular fuel.
Plybeep68
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Why not, it's a 440. Have the machine shop clean, magnaflux, and sonic check. If it's OK build your engine.
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I think he means stroker motor. I also saw an A what should mean .020 under cylinder bore.
Mark
andyf
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I don't know what those stampings mean, never seen anything like it. In any case what is stamped on that pad doesn't really matter if you are doing a full rebuild. Just have the shop check everything over and if it is all good then you are okay. The shop needs to look at all machined surfaces including the size of the lifter bores and the cam bearing bores. Lots of things can be wrong in an old block, especially if you don't know the history of the block.
andyf
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A might mean 0.020 over, M might mean Marine, R might mean Regular fuel, G might mean 1971. But the numbers and letters are not in the usual order so it could mean something or nothing at all. It could be a stamp by a rebuilder or something else. I wouldn't worry about it, just have the shop check the block and go from there.
wvmarv
Well-Known Member
Here you go.
http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/motor/36.html
On "RB" engines the cubic inch displacement is stamped on a pad located at the front of the block. "B" engines have a similar pad located on the right side of the block near the base of the distributor. Engine displacement, performance level, undersized bearing journals, oversize cylinders and other special information are also identified here.
Decoding Engine Block Stamping #'s
1960-1964
From '60 to '64 a typical engine ID code will look like this: S42-222
The first digit identifies the year: S=1962
The next 2 digits are the first 2 digits of the engine CID: 42=426
The last 3 digits are the date and month: 222= February 22
1965 - 1971
In '65 the third digit of the CID was added to the engine ID code.
After '65 a typical engine ID code will look like this: B383-322
The first digit identifies the year: B=1966
The next 3 digits are the engine CID: 383=383
The last 3 digits are the date and month: 322= March 22
Year Codes for B & RB Engines
- A - 1965
- B - 1966
- C - 1967
- D - 1968
- E - 1969
- F - 1970
- G - 1971
- H - 1972
- J - 1973
- P - 1960
- R - 1961
- S - 1962
- T - 1963
- V - 1964
- 4T - 1974
- 5T - 1975
- 6T - 1976
- 7T - 1977
- 8T - 1978
Additional stampings may be found on the ID pad.
They identify non standard engine components.
A - .020 oversize cylinder bores
Diamond - oversize tappets
E - Cast Crankshaft
HP - High Performance
L or LC - low compression
M - .001 undersize main bearing journals
Maltese Cross - .001" undersized bearing shells
Maltese Cross and an X - .010" undersized crankshaft
O.S. - .005 oversize valve stems
P - premium fuel
R - regular fuel
RX or MX - all main or rod journals .010" undersized
S - special engine
WT or TW - water test
X - .010" undersize crankshaft
'68 and later B&RB engine serial numbers
Beginning in 1968 all Mopar B&RB engine blocks have an engine serial number stamped in the left side oil pan rail at the rear corner under the starter opening.
Sample Serial # PT44028650001
Plant Code: PT
- MV,MN - Marysville Plant (426 Hemi)
- PT - Trenton Plant (361, 383, 400, 413, 426, 440)
- Should need no further explanation
- Based on 10,000 day Julian Calendar
- 2865 is June 1, 1969
- A sequential number for each days
production beginning with 0001
I'm going have a machine shop look at it anyway. I was just curious about the stamping on the block. Thanks
66Satellite47
Well-Known Member
Basically a 440 is a 440. The year doesn't matter much. The ribs between the freeze plugs are nice to have. Take a good look at the front of the block, see how close to the center of the castings are the bolt holes, look at the lifter bores, how centered are they. Sonic check the cylinder wall thickness if you can. Most any 440 block is adequate for a moderate HP build. If you are going for full bore power you need a thick cylinder wall block. Sonic testing will verify that.
After losing a cam due to improper lifter bore machining I will always have my blocks checked for lifter bore alignment. I believe BHJ makes the tooling.
Mike
Mike
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