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Yankee Express RestoMod Project

So,....I made a judgement call and transferred my engine block and heads to another shop. The one I started out with was like a dark cave, very grungy and dirty, crap sitting around everywhere and nothing clean or maintained. Bad vibes all around.
So, I picked up my **** yesterday and drove it all up the hwy 20 miles and dropped it off with RPM Racing Engines in Georgia, VT. Spotless shop. Well lit. Smiles everywhere. Helpful and polite. Better prices. Offered to try to repair the bunged up freeze plug hole in the end of one of the heads. Nice place and well run. When they give me back my parts they will be spotless and wrapped in plastic with a film of WD-40 on them and would be absolutely ready for assembly. Just run a clean rag with new oil on it through the bores and put it together.
So, he's going to do the following:
Wash the block and heads
check bores to see if they need to go to .40
cleanup pass on block surfaces and head surfaces.
install cam, rod & main bearing
polish crank
check valve guides
rod out oil passages
final wash
replace oil pump
new pistons if needed
positive Teflon valve seals
Moly rings
We will go from there as I get more money and he's fine with my engine sitting there till I can. He had several engines that were finished and wrapped in plastic. Looking good. They build engines for racing people all, over New England. $775 plus parts. Cant beat that.

Later on I'll have them do a valve job and replace guides of needed, install crank and cam, maybe pistons and rings, maybe heads and valve train. I'll do the rest.
I'm more comfortable with this business.
 
Just got off of the phone with Rick at RPM Racing Engines. The total for the work, new .040 pistons and all is $1925.00. Good price. He said the forged steel crank polished up very nice and was a great piece. The bores were .003 out of round and had a taper, so, onwards to .040 over. One of my old pistons was a forged unit, and the other seven were cast! lol. He also checked the diameter of the rods. Says the engine had been blueprinted already before. So I will get that all done and do the rest after I get more funds together.
PLUS! He was able to repair the 346 heads freeze plug hole! AND, it holds pressure. So that's great news since they are already ported and polished. They will need a valve job later. SO, great news all around! Stoked.
 
Great news on the engine, and it sounds like the guy is on top of the builds AND measuring stuff.
 
I just love when other guys tell me my crank is beautiful......he asked me where it came from because it wasn't from THIS engine. I said, You're right. I told him it came out of a Motor Home 440 with low miles.
 
Last edited:
Comp Cam
Card.

Chrysler 383-440ci 1959-1980

Hydraulic-Great replacement for 440 with 700-800 CFM or Six Pack. Noticeable idle in 383. Slight idle in 440. Largest cam w/stock converter.
273, 360, 318, AMC, Dodge, Mopar, Plymouth, Dart, Road Runner, Charger, Challenger, 383, 400, 440, 426, HEMI, 426 Wedge, 426 HEMI, RB, B, HEMI, 392, Chrysler, LA


Great replacement for 440 with 700-800 CFM or six pack. Noticeable idle in 383. Slight idle in 440. Largest cam w/ stock converter.
Specifications:
Engine Make/Size
Mopar 383-440
RPM Range
1800-5500
Lifter Type
Hydraulic Flat Tappet
Int. Duration Advertised (Deg)
270
Exh. Duration @ .050 in. (Deg)
224
Exh. Duration Advertised (Deg)
270
Int. Duration @ .050 in. (Deg)
224
Usage
Street/Strip
Quantity
Sold individually
Lobe Separation (Deg)
110
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio (
0.47
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio (i
0.47
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio
0.470 int./0.470 exh.
Advertised Duration
270 int./270 exh.
Computer-Controlled Compatible
No
Valve Springs Required
Yes
Cam Style
Hydraulic flat tappet
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift
224
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift
224
Duration at 050 inch Lift
224 int./224 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration
270
Advertised Exhaust Duration
270
Basic Operating RPM Range
1,800-5,500
Grind Number
CRB 270H-10
Camshaft Gear Attachment
1-bolt
Exhaust Valve Lift
0.47 in (11.938 mm)
Intake Valve Lift
0.47 in (11.938 mm)
Manufacturer's Part Number:
21-306-4
Shipping Weight:
10.02
Package Height:
2.8
Package Depth:
24.2
Package Width:
3
 
The wing lift mechanism arrived and it's going to work fine. Even thought he aluminum frame it's on is curved for the Audi the plates the wing bolts onto are aligned straight to the front and back. So, ditch the frame and use the motor and linkage. It's wide enough as well and substantial, not flimsy. Here's some pics. Really, if I wanted to extend the lift pads outboard more i would just need to lengthen the rods going to each.

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Stuff looks to be clickin' now. Still digging it over here! :thumbsup:
 
After thinking about it overnight, I decided that I would not need the entirety of the OEM frame. I only really need the two end pockets the arms fold into because the arm base, from which they extend, is fastened to the bottom of those pockets. Or, I will have to build pockets into the tray with the correct angles and positions to bolt those base plates to and figure out how to separate the axles from the arms to pass them through a fabricated pocket sidewall and moisture grommet that the Audi pockets already have. Therefore the pockets need to be fastened to the tray underside in order for the extension of the arms to have a stable base. The motor has it's own aluminum base plate with rubber dampeners to isolate it from the car/ tray. The pads the wing attaches to are setting slightly below the motor mounting plate and will require small spacers under the wing bolts. To lift the wing up to where it doesn't impact the tray upon closure. The angle of the final open position is about 38*. I will have to measure the distance at full open from the center of the pads to the proposed tray surface in order to not impact the lip upon movement.
That 38* angle will see the front lip of the wing being a static measurement from the pad centerline due to the total rise of the arms which I cannot increase. I will need to flatten the top lip of the pockets a bit to get the arm pads as close to the level of the tray as possible thereby increasing the width of the wing front to back as much as possible by getting the full open position as high as I can from the tray surface. As you can see in the first picture, there's loads of room for a wide wing, as much as maybe 8-10 inches total width. Which is much wider than I want to have. More like 6 - 6 3/4". So until it's warmer and I can lay the glass for the wing build I'll get some 18GA sheet metal and fashion the tray, 1st iteration design and go forwards from where ever that gets me to, in the process...lol.

20210227_113115.jpg
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Rick Paya at RPM Racing Engines just called, my 440 is done. Quick work! He says it's ready for assembly. I need a freeze plug kit, oil filter, oil pickup, fan belts, fluids and an air cleaner, that's about it. Clean up some nuts and bolts and small parts. Buy some engine paint.

Woo hoo.
 
Here's the swag, back from RPM... looking good and ready to go together. I've sprayed everything liberally with WD-40 an wrapped it all up in plastic for later. Too cold today and my shop is to messy while I'm fighting with this transmission and spring cleaning. Once I have it all cleaned up and neat I'll see about assembly. Cam bearings mains, rods and HV Oil Pump, new plugs .040, cam bearing installed. Bored, honed. Polished the crank. Measured everything and checked end play etc..
Repaired and tested the frost plug hole that was banged up. Once it's painted and facing the firewall it will be pretty much out of sight..

20210305_111417.jpg
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20210305_112550.jpg
20210305_112556.jpg
 
Ghostrider 67 said:
Took the plunge. Just bought this mechanism. 2009 Audi TT rear spoiler lift mechanism. Damaged frame (twisted a little) and only $53 bucks. I don't need the frame to be perfect anyway, it's under the trunk deck. Plus I can straighten it. This is longer and the lift arms spread further apart than a Crossfire version. Should do. We shall see. Plus it's heavier duty than a small Crossfire unit.

View attachment 1071455 View attachment 1071456 View attachment 1071457 View attachment 1071458 View attachment 1071454
Click to expand...
that looks like a better option :thumbsup:
 
Ghostrider 67 said:
Just got off of the phone with Rick at RPM Racing Engines. The total for the work, new .040 pistons and all is $1925.00. Good price. He said the forged steel crank polished up very nice and was a great piece. The bores were .003 out of round and had a taper, so, onwards to .040 over. One of my old pistons was a forged unit, and the other seven were cast! lol. He also checked the diameter of the rods. Says the engine had been blueprinted already before. So I will get that all done and do the rest after I get more funds together.
PLUS! He was able to repair the 346 heads freeze plug hole! AND, it holds pressure. So that's great news since they are already ported and polished. They will need a valve job later. SO, great news all around! Stoked.
Click to expand...
a plus-plus, win-win situation
great the heads were repaired & hold
 
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