My 69 Road Runner
- Thread starter hunt2elk
- Start date
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So you sprayed the whole bottom of the car with it, and then painted over?
Yes, painted flat black
mopar4don
Well-Known Member
Hey Hunt I just found your update, (about the last page and a half) I don't know why I don't get an alert even though I am subscribed or watching your thread? Do I have to log in every so often or what??
Anyway, I made my own lower rad support, and will be adding the torq boxes and sub frame connectors. I was thinking of getting the inner braces, but kinda decided against it.
(you know, when is enough, enough?
) It is interesting that John from USCT recommended "adding inner fender braces and welding the floor to firewall seam solid"Now you have me second guessing myself!
Thank you for bringing us up to date, I appreciate you documenting everything and sharing
We learn something new every time we build something, either from experience or from others. I did all the braces but didn't know about welding the seam on the floor.
I was surprised about him telling me to weld that seam solid as well, I never would have thought of that. I also appreciated him being honest and telling me that adding the lower radiator brace would do absolutely nothing on my application. I know of some that would try to sell their products regardless if it was beneficial or not to the customer.Hey Hunt I just found your update, (about the last page and a half) I don't know why I don't get an alert even though I am subscribed or watching your thread? Do I have to log in every so often or what??
Anyway, I made my own lower rad support, and will be adding the torq boxes and sub frame connectors. I was thinking of getting the inner braces, but kinda decided against it.
(you know, when is enough, enough?
Now you have me second guessing myself!
Thank you for bringing us up to date, I appreciate you documenting everything and sharing
Last edited:
I have seen some pretty crappy stuff under the lead on other cars, but was pleasantly surprised on this one. Probably the nicest factory work I have seen overall. Lead melted out gently with a propane torch as well as cleaned out the drip rails.
Welded up solid. Doesn't look the best especially on the C-pillars, but penetration is nice looking at the backside. Doesn't matter how much you heat this area with a torch, some lead is always trapped in the joint preventing a nice weld. So I just do the best I can with tack welds so there is no warpage.
Grate story of how you came by the car. We all have hauled home some pretty rusted and tired car's. But with determination and a lot of money you can bring a car back to life. Good luck with the car.
Those A pillar bottom's that fit under the upper cowl were total rusted out. So had to make my own with a bead roller got form east wood and the help of an anvil. Cut two pieces and hammered them into shape.
I bought these TTI headers 10 years ago and always noticed discoloration in a couple of spots around the flange. Come to find out that quality control was not up to par the day they were made apparently. 2 spots around the circle didn't get welded. Called TTI kind of expecting them to repair it since it was their fault. I was told to just weld it up and file the flange straight. So I did and fingers crossed that it seals and no damage was done to the ceramic coating. Kind of sucks to pay $900 for headers and have to finish welding them up.
No new metal, just welded the 2 areas that TTI missed.
My mistake, my mind was on exhaust. I don't add any metal to the 8 joints. The 4 a-pillar joints you can fill in good with weld, but the c-pillar and rockers I just tack till the seam is covered. Don't want to heat those areas up too much and take a chance of warping. That with the original spot welds is stronger than it originally was imo.
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I know when I had Fred in the body shop, he already had one c-pillar that had bubbled up
from the previous owners' dubious painting/prep work, so they asked me if I wanted them
to fix it while they had the car.
I said "sure", not knowing what they actually meant....
when I went out to check on things, they handed me a big wad of (cooled off obviously)
molten lead - they had done BOTH sides, melting out the original lead and redoing the joints
with weld, then filler. They matched paint perfectly, too - it looks fantastic now.
from the previous owners' dubious painting/prep work, so they asked me if I wanted them
to fix it while they had the car.
I said "sure", not knowing what they actually meant....
when I went out to check on things, they handed me a big wad of (cooled off obviously)
molten lead - they had done BOTH sides, melting out the original lead and redoing the joints
with weld, then filler. They matched paint perfectly, too - it looks fantastic now.
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