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Replace head gasket. Help.

Huicho417

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What is the best method to clean the engine deck in preparation for the new cylinder head gaskets? I recently removed them to have a machine shop inspect and restore if needed. I definitely do not want to damage the block. Thanks everyone!
 
I removed this post because others feel that it is not the way to do it. I do not want to give bad advice. I had no issues with the method but the guys posting below are more knowledgeable and have their methods. Stick with them and you can't go wrong.
 
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If you do that make sure you blow all the fibers out with a good air hose. ou can also use a block of wood and some wet/dry to run across the entire deck surface area to make sure the deck is flat.
 
What engine And type of material on the heads are you working with?

This has to be the worst advise ever in post 2. This is a flat rate dealership mechanic talking, speed is the key to his life. I would not start with those methods. Start with less aggressive methods first. Using abrasive could easily damage the surface.

First use brake cleaner and rags to remove anything you can. Then use a brand new Razor blade and. Scrape the surface. This will have no burrs on the edge and be sharp. Hold it tight in your hand at about a 30 degree angle. Use brake cleaner again to clean anything off.

Then I like a wire wheel on a drill to get anything remaining off. It doesn’t remove material and make grit like either of the abrasives in the video.
 
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I sharpen a painters tool or a heavy chisel. A razor blade is a little too flexible for me.
Definitely nothing abrasive.
I put shop towels in the cylinder.
Run a tap in all the headbolt holes.
 
I'd use a large file, laid flat over the deck to knockoff the high spots. Then some 600 grit wrapped around a block of flat ground steel. Wipe it all down with lacquer thinner.
 
Gasket scraper then follow with the razor blade.
 
those rolls disc are not recommended, especially in sleeved engines, the razor blade method is best.
and it s not how it looks after, just cause its shiny doesn't make it straight.
I carefully remnopve gasket and use gasket remover and there is a way to use bad not to damage block.
the gasket imprint on the block is normal , if you try and buff it out it will make surface uneven.
 
Any abrasive on an air tool is a bad idea. It may seem like it's not removing a lot of metal, but it doesn't take much to ruin the surface. I use a Snap-On gasket remover/scraper that I keep clean and sharp. After all of the gasket material is removed, I use a razor blade to clean the surface. I totally agree with @R413 That mechanic is all about speed, not precision.
 
I have done the razor blade and 5 way tool for cleaning up the surface. There are multiple ways to do it. Everyone will have their own tricks. Whatever you are comfortable with. The scotch brite method I have used in the past works well as long as you pretty much use it to get the gasket material off. I would not bare down on it for long periods of time in one spot as it will and does remove material. Watching the video above the shop manual says to do it the way he did it. But that may be to reduce shop time like mentioned above.
 
GM used to have a memo out NOT to use scotch brite pads, the little fibers can damage bearings
 
I recommend remove the heads then invite buddies over your progress and have a dozen beers. Then fall asleep on couch til wife comes home and let her yell at you for doing nothing at home again
 
Also keep the crud out of the lifter valley. Use a shop vac to remove the crud from everywhere.

Before removing heads remove the drain plugs from the sides of the block to keep antifreeze out of the cylinders. If it doesn’t drain pop a punch through the layer of crust in the hole, pretty common on older engines.

One great benefit of fuel-pro blue gaskets is no sealer on them so cleanup is easy. You don’t need to have all the blue removed from,the surfaces, as long as you scraped it and Use some Kind of solvent.
 
Roloc bristle discs.

Roloc Discs.jpg
 
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