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Transmission to Bell Housing Fitment

1964 b body

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Ok I am currently converting my Hemi Savoy from Automatic to 833 4-timer. My bell housing hole for the tranny is extremely tight. I was told that it is not a good idea to try to pull the transmission in using the attachment bolts as you may strip the threads. Does it need to be that tight or can I have a machine shop cut the hole slightly for a easier slip into the bell housing? Thanks in advance.
 
You first need to measure the two diameters. Is the bore in the bell housing concentric with the
crankshaft? If it's tight, you could use this opportunity to dial it in!
 
Good thought. He's describing bellhousing runout. You need to get a dial indicator and magnetic base to mount on the crank end or installed flywheel and measure the runout on the bellhousing register (hole) at 90 degree points. You are hoping is will come in under .006" variance from the crank centerline, if using an A833. Some of the newer transmissions require it even closer because they run other than a roller bearing up front on the transmission.
 
It should fall right on the bellhousing if everything is clean. Draw in problems are almost always clutch disc misalignment, pilot bearing tight, or crank not drilled deep enough. I would pull everything and check it all out to be safe. Dialing in the housing is a good idea too.
 
Test fit the trans to bellhousing fit first. It needs to be snug, no slop, not tight either.

yes clutch can add to the problem.

You can break a bellhousing or the ear off the trans pulling with bolts.
 
All good ideas, at the moment I am working with both the Tranny and bell housing on the bench this is the first thing I checked and like I said its real tight. I think I will start with Emory cloth once I can get it close I will then install the flywheel and check the other things mentioned. Looks like it needs to be snug but right mine is REAL snug.
 
If you need machine work to make it fit, do it to the bearing retainer instead of the bell housing. Easier and cheaper to replace.
 
It should fall right on the bellhousing if everything is clean. Draw in problems are almost always clutch disc misalignment, pilot bearing tight, or crank not drilled deep enough. I would pull everything and check it all out to be safe. Dialing in the housing is a good idea too.
No. False.
I have minimal experience with manual transmissions but I have seen sloppy fit, close fit and interference fit.
 
Not wrong, it should at worst wiggle on by hand, or with the bell sitting on the floor the trans should fall/ wiggle right on. If it needs to be pulled on with bolts it is tighter than it has to be. Pilot bushings should have .0005 to .003 clearance, never tight. You had better have real good bellhousing alignment to run that .0005 is all I will say
 
Did you do this? This type of dial indicator works best.

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Is the bell housing off the engine , if it is it should it should fit , may have to wiggle it a bit.
Did you paint the bellhousing ? If you got paint on the inside of the big hole a snug fitting bell may became to tight to fit.
Check for burs on the bell housing and tranny bearing retainer
 
Check for burrs on the bell housing and tranny bearing retainer

I agree. Small burrs can be just enough to cause trouble.
When I was doing the mock up for my Tremec 5 speed swap, the bell was a tight fit even off of the car. THEN add in the clutch splines and pilot bearing and it is even more difficult. If the clutch is off center a few thousands to the left and the bellhousing bore or bearing collar has a nick or burr in it, it will fight you. In my opinion, it should not be an interference fit and it should not be loose. Mine felt tighter that I thought that it should have been.
 
There was an auto trans so bellhousing didn't come with engine. Unless it's a switch back, manual to auto back to manual.
 
Thanks to everybody for the helpful hints D-Day starts tomorrow with the removal of the 727 I will update as the job moves forward.
 
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