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DynaTech Engineering MityMounts engine mount Review

themechanic

Oklahoma is OK
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For BCE66-74 $139.50 shipped (Lifetime Warranty). http://www.mitymounts.com/

I bought these based on suggestions from FBBO members and their comparison with Schumacher Magnum Poly-loc engine mounts that are supposed to be stiffer than MityMounts. The Poly-locs cost a bit more $175 shipped.

The installation was per the Dodge factory service manual (FSM) for 1969 Coronet with 440 engine. The mounts have a stock appearance and there was no change in vibration damping from the stock mounts they replaced (which were in like new condition).

One big problem with the MityMounts is the stud length was too long. I had to cut off about 3/8" (or just above the nut once bolted to the mount on the engine side) in order to fit, otherwise the bolt holes would not line up due to the stud contacting the engine.

One small problem was the threads in the nuts on both mounts needed chasing probably due to rubber residue from the manufacturing process.

Also, the metal is thinner and more flexible on the MityMounts than the stock mounts; But, not enough to matter once bolted in.

I recommend the MityMounts and would by them again.


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Sorry about your warranty issue. My mild 440 shouldn't break a mount but I didn't want to take a chance on the stock mounts on the car when I bought it.
 
Schumacher interlockers on my 69 440. Have not been able to break them. Smooth.
 
Sorry about your warranty issue. My mild 440 shouldn't break a mount but I didn't want to take a chance on the stock mounts on the car when I bought it.

Shouldn't have a problem Mechanic...My motor pumps out 696TQ and I have yet to break one. I'm thinking goon got slapped with either a late day friday or hung over monday mount. lol
 
I can't speak bad about the mounts I really believe I just got a bad one in the batch especially since Props is holding his monster nice and snug! I will add the torque strap for reassurance and I'll also post pics of my broken mount as soon as it's out so you guys can see what happened.

My numbers aren't quite as high as props (I dyno'd 660 peak torque) but I'm also a 4 speed which has added a beating for sure.
 
(I dyno'd 660 peak torque) but I'm also a 4 speed which has added a beating for sure.


I don't know whether to consider that a tornado on a roller skate, nuts in the back seat, or a raped ape.
 
I realize this is an old thread but have something to contribute to it.
I tuned a LOT more power out of my engine and the 1st (only time still...) I whomped on it I felt the thrill of victory only to feel the agony of defeat when I popped the hood and saw some black thing on my intake.
I was wondering wth it was when smoke started rising from the driverside header and discovered a large piece of fan shroud smoldering there.
Dang it!
Turns out I pulled the MityMount apart.
I took a pic of failed mount from under the car and emailed DynaTech who promptly -no questions asked- sent me a new set after I supplied my address. I got them a few days later.
I guess I will add a couple more bolts to the DS mount before reinstalling it.
I found these on line for those who want to do their own engine mount mod.
I looked around and didn't see a source readily available so here is one:
https://www.fastenere.com/38-16-x-2-12-flat-head-socket-cap-screws-black-oxide-alloy-steel-qty-10
 
I realize this is an old thread but have something to contribute to it.
I tuned a LOT more power out of my engine and the 1st (only time still...) I whomped on it I felt the thrill of victory only to feel the agony of defeat when I popped the hood and saw some black thing on my intake.
I was wondering wth it was when smoke started rising from the driverside header and discovered a large piece of fan shroud smoldering there.
Dang it!
Turns out I pulled the MityMount apart.
I took a pic of failed mount from under the car and emailed DynaTech who promptly -no questions asked- sent me a new set after I supplied my address. I got them a few days later.
I guess I will add a couple more bolts to the DS mount before reinstalling it.
I found these on line for those who want to do their own engine mount mod.
I looked around and didn't see a source readily available so here is one:
https://www.fastenere.com/38-16-x-2-12-flat-head-socket-cap-screws-black-oxide-alloy-steel-qty-10
I didn't have good luck with the mity-mounts either. Nice theory but for what they cost....better off using a stock mount and some chain or bailing wire!
Rather than try to fab up my own I went straight for the kill and bought a pair of the Moroso solid mounts. About $30 for the pair....now the car will bust before that engine lifts!
 
Since I have these on hand I will reinforce them and 'be careful'...
 
Nick (on Nick's Garage) just mentioned what he has always used on a recent video. I don't recall what brand but he only uses them on the driver's side and a oem mount on the passenger's side. He builds some 500+ HP engines and hasn't had any problems. You might look him up and send him an email or just catch him on a Friday night live stream and message him.
 
I went with napa oem style mounts.
Then built a torque strap / rod 3/8 all thread with a pair of shock rubbers at the bottom on each side of the k frame saddle edge. Heim joint at the top bolted to a block hole behind the ps pump.
 
You can get grade 8 bolts like pictured at Ace Hardware

I did my drivers side mount per the Dodgecharger thread four years ago

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I'm going to add 2 more to the MityMount because I have it on hand. Hopefully I won't pull 4 of them through. :rolleyes:
 
Help! Does anyone have any tips how to remove these once installed? I just noticed the bolt is contacting the engine. I need to remove the brackets, cut the bolt and reinstall. Exhaust, trans., and all that is installed.

It seems like there is only about a half inch to raise the engine before the Lakewood bellhousing hits the firewall.

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Help! Does anyone have any tips how to remove these once installed? I just noticed the bolt is contacting the engine. I need to remove the brackets, cut the bolt and reinstall. Exhaust, trans., and all that is installed.

It seems like there is only about a half inch to raise the engine before the Lakewood bellhousing hits the firewall.

View attachment 1262388 View attachment 1262389
The engine only needs to move up enough to take the pressure off of the mounting bolts...I've R&R'd them with the engine in place many times. Reach down there with wrenches/ratchets/whatever fits and remove the three upper mounting bolts, then remove the long lower bolt and wiggle the bracket/biscuit assembly out. You can then separate them and do what you need to do on the workbench; they'll go in the way they came out. Heck if you're in the Fresno/Clovis area I'll give you a hand..
 
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