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Using studs for bellhousing to block mounting

ChargerST

ChargerST

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I have a Lakewood scattershield (not mounted yet) and one of the big drawbacks is that you have to remove it when you want to replace the clutch. Has anyone used studs to mount the bellhousing to the block? I imagine that it would make it much easier to mount the scattershield if you have to replace the clutch.

What do you think?
 
I have used 2 longer bolts with the heads cut off and rounded on the cutoff end with a grinder. Make sure they thread in easily because you’re going to have to remove them once you get some bolts in. These act as longer alignment pins.
 
eric383 said:
I have used 2 longer bolts with the heads cut off and rounded on the cutoff end with a grinder. Make sure they thread in easily because you’re going to have to remove them once you get some bolts in. These act as longer alignment pins.
Click to expand...

Thanks! Are you talking about the attachment of the transmission to the bellhousing or bellhousing to block? I'm asking because I have heard to do this (to use bolts with the heads cut off) to facilitate mounting the transmission to the bellhousing. My intention is to use studs for the block to bellhousing and keep them there.
 
Last edited:
ChargerST said:
I have a Lakewood scattershield (not mounted yet) and one of the big drawbacks is that you have to remove it when you want to replace the clutch.....
Click to expand...

Ideally you'll want to locate the bell to the crank CL on the two dowels first. Studs can help ya' hang the saver and bell, but they are not what aligns the bell.
 
With dowels why would you need studs? Plus if you dialed the bell in you most likely will need dowels and the ones I use are longer. I just do not see the need for studs.
 
pnora said:
With dowels why would you need studs? Plus if you dialed the bell in you most likely will need dowels and the ones I use are longer. I just do not see the need for studs.
Click to expand...
If you needed to change out the clutch very often, studs would save the threads in the block.
 
Last edited:
pnora said:
With dowels why would you need studs? Plus if you dialed the bell in you most likely will need dowels and the ones I use are longer. I just do not see the need for studs.
Click to expand...
IMO...
The dowel pins provide the accurate alignment AND absorb the shear forces between the clutch/transmission and engine. Dowel pins are hardened centerless ground alloy steel rod made to specific dimensions.
BOB RENTON
 
ChargerST said:
Thanks! Are you talking about the attachment of the transmission to the bellhousing or bellhousing to block? I'm asking because I have heard to do this (to use bolts with the heads cut off) to facilitate mounting the transmission to the bellhousing. My intention is to use studs for the block to bellhousing and keep them there.
Click to expand...
I use old head bolts with the heads cut off to help line up the trans to the bellhousing.
 
For some people the correct way to do something is the way the factory did it. Usually a good reason for that.
With a standard transmission that should be perfectly centered with the crankshaft , the factory used hardened, offset ground pins to align the bellhousings center/input shaft to the crankshafts center.
Using anything else instead of the alignment studs can cause transmission input shaft bearing problems for example.
To some people if it bolts up, it is good enough.
Pick your poison...
 
I would suggest socket head setscrews to replace the bolts, if you want. They would be grade eight, removable with an allen key or allen socket if you have to, or you could leave them in place and use nuts. Obviously, keep the alignment pins in the block in place. (Same technique could be used on the scattershield for the trans. You would just have to locktight them in.)
 
Yes, I want to keep the dowel pins and use studs - ARP, McMaster Carr or something similar https://www.mcmaster.com/94358A330/
Or

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-245-0901

The ARP studs also have a bullet nose which makes it easy to put the nut on.

The scattershield needs to be removed for clutch work and it just seems to me that it would be easier if I would use studs instead of bolts as I could hang the scattershield on the studs (they are longer than the dowel pins).
 
isn't the floor right there , how long studs are we talking about
 
MoparLeo said:
For some people the correct way to do something is the way the factory did it. Usually a good reason for that.
With a standard transmission that should be perfectly centered with the crankshaft , the factory used hardened, offset ground pins to align the bellhousings center/input shaft to the crankshafts center.
Using anything else instead of the alignment studs can cause transmission input shaft bearing problems for example.
To some people if it bolts up, it is good enough.
Pick your poison...
Click to expand...

ABSOLUTELY GREAT EXPLANATION...
YES.... to some people good enough is acceptable.....regardless of the reason....
BOB RENTON
 
ChargerST said:
Thanks! Are you talking about the attachment of the transmission to the bellhousing or bellhousing to block? I'm asking because I have heard to do this (to use bolts with the heads cut off) to facilitate mounting the transmission to the bellhousing. My intention is to use studs for the block to bellhousing and keep them there.
Click to expand...
I used the cutoff bolts threaded into the block to help align the bell housing when mounting it to the block. The times I’ve used this method was with a auto trans so I had a little more weight and length to deal with. I don’t know why you couldn’t use studs as long as you don’t gall the threads when installing the bell housing.
 
eric383 said:
I have used 2 longer bolts with the heads cut off and rounded on the cutoff end with a grinder. Make sure they thread in easily because you’re going to have to remove them once you get some bolts in. These act as longer alignment pins.
Click to expand...
Took the words right out of my fingers.
 
ChargerST said:
I have a Lakewood scattershield (not mounted yet) and one of the big drawbacks is that you have to remove it when you want to replace the clutch. Has anyone used studs to mount the bellhousing to the block? I imagine that it would make it much easier to mount the scattershield if you have to replace the clutch.

What do you think?
Click to expand...
Those things are a huge pain. Unless you’re racing, running a high horsepower application or need it for a trans swap, I’d ditch it for a stocker. Conversely, if you’re not racing how likely are frequent clutch changes needed?
 
Lol, way back in the early '80s I bought a '70 Plymouth Ruster off a "cheap car" lot just to beat around in. This car had to be next to if not the cheapest thing available when new. A 198 / with three on the tree and a rubber floor. One thing I noted, and hard to miss, this car had a small hole in the passenger side trans tunnel. So I just hammered the edges down never gave it another thought.
One day driving over some rough railroad tracks something falls out of the passenger side dash. I pick it up. It's maybe three inches long, curved "L" shape, and definitely a casting. WTF??
It dawns on me it's part of a pressure plate that came apart.
 
Hemirunner said:
Those things are a huge pain. Unless you’re racing, running a high horsepower application or need it for a trans swap, I’d ditch it for a stocker. Conversely, if you’re not racing how likely are frequent clutch changes needed?
Click to expand...

Not racing but will have a 500" stroker (600hp/600tq). Using the Lakewood is just a safety measure - very unlikely that my clutch/flywheel will explode but it's for my peace of mind.
I'll put the engine/transmission as one unit into the car (from the bottom) - I'll try to do everything now that makes my life easier later (such as when the time comes to replace the clutch)
 
Last edited:
Did you check that the scattershield was center to crank? Mine was off .013 or .014. Just asking.
ba.JPG
ba1.JPG
 
ChargerST said:
I have a Lakewood scattershield (not mounted yet) and one of the big drawbacks is that you have to remove it when you want to replace the clutch. Has anyone used studs to mount the bellhousing to the block? I imagine that it would make it much easier to mount the scattershield if you have to replace the clutch.

What do you think?
Click to expand...
Sure, I used studs for years to hold the scatter shield to the back of my big block. I used ARP stainless studs with 12 point heads. Worked great.
DSC_3728 (Large).JPG
 
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