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High School Building a 68 "Super Bee" Turbine Bronze.

I scanned through this thread but didn't see any specs on the engine.
 
Thank you. That isn't very specific though. Compression, cam, carburetor specs, etc.
 
Thank you. That isn't very specific though. Compression, cam, carburetor specs, etc.

Pistons PTS531A3, rod bolts 15-6002, main bolts 140-5002, head bolts 145-3606, ED7193 Intake, LMS5911 rocker, oil pump 48657, plug kit 1458B, 119m10 main bearing, 527HD rod bearing, cam lifter 20230712, gasketset 160-5947, 1867 headgasket, MSD8387, carb750 BK, RC12YC plugs, brad penn break in oil, 400-2401 carb stud kit, 26156 fuel line, brad penn 15-40.
Crankshaft balance
magnaflux auto block
deck block to square
bore and hone block
bake- blast and tap block
block final clean
line hone block


I will look into those other bits of information. I will get back to you.


CVF racing Serpentine kit
Vintage A/C +Evaporator box
Edelbrock Performance cylinder head.
 
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CVF

472E7279-4CFF-41E4-8B88-13832B9359BB.jpeg
 
Not sure what more info you are looking for.

Look, I have been supportive of this project so a question about compression and camshaft specs is not out of line. You respond with a laundry list with part numbers for engine bolts. If you built the engine, you'd know these things and be able to share them. If you had the engine built and don't know, that is another matter. There is no shame in paying a shop to build it.
There are many reasons why my question is an important one.
First, if the compression is above 10.0 to 1, a winner in California or Arizona may encounter detonation even with the best pump gas we have.
Secondly, The camshaft determines how the engine will perform and at what RPM it will make the peak power.
 
Ah, you used the Lunati Voodoo cam. By any chance was video taken of the dyno session
(or other times the engine was running)? Bet it sounds pretty mean!
 
Look, I have been supportive of this project so a question about compression and camshaft specs is not out of line. You respond with a laundry list with part numbers for engine bolts. If you built the engine, you'd know these things and be able to share them. If you had the engine built and don't know, that is another matter. There is no shame in paying a shop to build it.
There are many reasons why my question is an important one.
First, if the compression is above 10.0 to 1, a winner in California or Arizona may encounter detonation even with the best pump gas we have.
Secondly, The camshaft determines how the engine will perform and at what RPM it will make the peak power.

I apologize. We did have the engine built. I didn't mean any disrespect or bad response.

I will research that information. I'm sure it's in the DYNO sheet. This build was in process before I was hired on. The builds are done during one school year. Time I can already tell you is not my side! Even with the pandemic going on... Also who understands virtual students?! lol

Again I am not good with tone on the internet. I have everything back in my classroom at the moment.

I took machine shop at college but we don't have any of that equipment here at the high school.
 
Look, I have been supportive of this project so a question about compression and camshaft specs is not out of line. You respond with a laundry list with part numbers for engine bolts. If you built the engine, you'd know these things and be able to share them. If you had the engine built and don't know, that is another matter. There is no shame in paying a shop to build it.
There are many reasons why my question is an important one.
First, if the compression is above 10.0 to 1, a winner in California or Arizona may encounter detonation even with the best pump gas we have.
Secondly, The camshaft determines how the engine will perform and at what RPM it will make the peak power.
I think this man is doing a great job. He's teaching the next generation and trying to raise funds for the next year. Your question is absolutely valid, but the tone was not friendly.
 
Look, I have been supportive of this project so a question about compression and camshaft specs is not out of line. You respond with a laundry list with part numbers for engine bolts. If you built the engine, you'd know these things and be able to share them. If you had the engine built and don't know, that is another matter. There is no shame in paying a shop to build it.
There are many reasons why my question is an important one.
First, if the compression is above 10.0 to 1, a winner in California or Arizona may encounter detonation even with the best pump gas we have.
Secondly, The camshaft determines how the engine will perform and at what RPM it will make the peak power.
Eh, not too hard to look up the cam from that number - it's a Lunati Voodoo series:
https://www.jegs.com/i/Lunati/638/20230712/10002/-1
 
I wanted to ask, because I will admit electrical is not my strongest subject, to the gear heads that have installed dakota digital, electric fans, and any other electrical (demanding accessories) have you installed a new/seperate fuse box or switched power feed to try to take the load off of the factory fuse panel?

This is what we are running:
Vintage air
Dakota Digital Dash panel
440 big block
MSD ignition
Cold case radiator with ELECTRIC cooling fans.
Retro Sound radio with bluetooth and satellite
Vintage air evaporative box that comes with their A/C and it does have a 30AMP breaker
727 with shift kit
transmission cooler
Factory harness at the moment
Factory head lights
Bergman steering box
3.91 Gear in rear with sure-grip.
Brand new General G-MAXX tires
38 tooth speedo gear (blue)
Legendary interior

What would you recommend just to be extra safe? Would you have a switched 12 Volt feed to a seperate fuse panel? What have you done with your set up?

I want to do this right so whoever ends up winning this car wont have an issue driving it... Which I know is hard to do but I will end up road testing this vehicle and working out any issues (which I hope we don't have any).

My motto is, if you are going to do something.... do it right... because doing it twice will cost the same or more in the long run after your second fix/repair/assembly.
 
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