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440 -> 520 block prep + oiling system?

Tonz

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I want to start by thanking everyone on this forum, i have been learning so much and have been steering my plan accordingly when it comes to what stroker to throw in my belvedere so thank you! Im inexperienced to say the least and this is giving me a lot of confidence for my build. Currently I'm thinking a 0.030" over bore 440 with 4.375" stroke because apparently thats the longest i can go without switching to external oiling system (pls feel free to confirm or deny that). What kind of clearancing would such a stroke require? I cant remember where but i saw one build where it was hitting the block where the pickup threaded in, would that be something i should be concerned about? And how to i mitigate that issue as well as any other clearance related issues i may encounter? Assuming i heard right about being able to maintain an internal oiling system with a 4.375" stroke, i was thinking this combo of parts, milodon 7" oil pan and 440 source stroker pickup and windage tray, think that'd work? (Also this is for a street build so no 7,000rpm shifts screaming down the quarter if that means anything)

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-30930/make/dodge

http://store.440source.com/Stroker-Oil-Pickup-Tube-3_8-thread/productinfo/127-1017/

http://store.440source.com/Windage-Tray-Stroker-New/productinfo/127-1002/
 
When I did my 500" motor, I used the Milodon pan but used their pickup tube for that pan and their windage tray just so they were compatible and I didn't mix brands and have any issues. Totally **** on my part, but I didn't wanna find out that such and such pickup was a tad too shallow or deep with this or that pan.

:thumbsup:
 
I was in exactly your shoes about a year ago. By what you’ve said you already have done a fair amount of research. I purchased my 512 kit from Hughes engine and he did the machining on the block that I provided. He took care of all clearance issues. I used the Mildon pan, pick up and windage tray. Expensive but perfect fit. Between this site, YouTube and calling Hughes the info is available.
By ordering almost all parts at Hughes I was able to mitigate most fit issues. If there was a problem they are great about working you thru it. Trust me I bounced some rookie questions off of them and was never made to feel stupid!!
 
I have not built a stroker. From what I understand, for your stroke, you just need to grind off some metal on the edge of the oil pickup hole in the engine block...just a little, & the pickup will still seal. (from what I understand)
 
I have not built a stroker. From what I understand, for your stroke, you just need to grind off some metal on the edge of the oil pickup hole in the engine block...just a little, & the pickup will still seal. (from what I understand)
Thats good, ive seen people put theadlocker in there and im sure that'll help seal it a bit
 
I had to grind that area by the oil pickup tube and all eight lower cylinders in a U shape to clear the rod bolts during rotation on my 500" 440 block. The thread locker will definitely help seal and it'll keep your pickup from rotating on you at all during operation.
 
I had to grind that area by the oil pickup tube and all eight lower cylinders in a U shape to clear the rod bolts during rotation on my 500" 440 block. The thread locker will definitely help seal and it'll keep your pickup from rotating on you at all during operation.
That grinding shouldn't affect longevity right? I want this car to last a long time with just some regular maintenance not looking for another rebuild in a couple years
 
Not at all......mine was so low on the cylinder wall that the piston skirt didn't even go that low or come close to the area. It was just so when the rod swings by the lower wall that it doesn't clip the block with the cap nut and lets it clear well. The only sucky thing about it all is assembling the one set of rods to give you an idea of how much needs to come out before grinding then taking it apart and keeping everything really REALLY clean for reassembly later. Also when you do that make sure you get that metal dust from grinding out of everywhere inside the block. When it seems like its all out and clean, clean it one more time just to be sure.
 
I also think with your stroke you may have to notch the area on the oil pan rail where the rod comes around as well to clear the rod nut/stud(8 notches total just like the cylinder wall). Mine was fine, but really close and I remember a note saying that it is a possibility of needing to do that.
 
That grinding shouldn't affect longevity right? I want this car to last a long time with just some regular maintenance not looking for another rebuild in a couple years
Since you said it's a street build with no screaming passes down the track, personally I would opt for the 4.25" stroke with the 2.2" journal size. The extra few cubes you'll get with the longer crankshaft isn't worth it IMO, when you can make tons of power on the street with the 4.25" which is 505 cubes with just a .030" overbore, or 512 @ +.060. They typically go in with no trouble.


Now, my machinist did kiss a few spots with the grinder on my 505", but even then he said things weren't contacting, just that he likes more wiggle room than less when possible.
pickub boss.jpg




Cylinder kiss.jpg
 
^^^ Agree 200% with Beanhead. My 505" motor burns tires off at 35-45 mph! Those are the exact spots mine had to be ground as well.
 
Since you said it's a street build with no screaming passes down the track, personally I would opt for the 4.25" stroke with the 2.2" journal size. The extra few cubes you'll get with the longer crankshaft isn't worth it IMO, when you can make tons of power on the street with the 4.25" which is 505 cubes with just a .030" overbore, or 512 @ +.060. They typically go in with no trouble.


Now, my machinist did kiss a few spots with the grinder on my 505", but even then he said things weren't contacting, just that he likes more wiggle room than less when possible.
View attachment 1085863



View attachment 1085864
Yeah you make a very good point, heres where my head is at with why i want those 15", i want to use a cross ram intake which will already choke my build cause of the poor flow, coupled with between 9-10:1 CR so i can run 91 octane, im not giving this engine a winning potential, but still kind of want to try for 600ft/lbs of torque, i think id be just under with a 505 so maybe that extra 1/4 litre will make all the difference
 
In my humble opinion....
You will really want to use a stroker kit that uses the big block chevy rods with the 4.375 stroke. Much fewer clearance problems than with mopar rods, lots of length options, better lighter pistons and pins.
Im building a 520 with 7.1 bbc rods, custom ross pistons (though Icon makes off-the-shelf pistons for this combo) milodon pan and the matching pickup, and a 440source stroker widage tray.
 
In my humble opinion....
You will really want to use a stroker kit that uses the big block chevy rods with the 4.375 stroke. Much fewer clearance problems than with mopar rods, lots of length options, better lighter pistons and pins.
Im building a 520 with 7.1 bbc rods, custom ross pistons (though Icon makes off-the-shelf pistons for this combo) milodon pan and the matching pickup, and a 440source stroker widage tray.
Yeah definitely chevy rods, i was thinking this 440 source crank then id play around with combinations of rod length and flat top or dished pistons before i buy anything so i can get my desired CR

https://store.440source.com/4375-Stroke-Crankshafts/products/43/
 
Not at all......mine was so low on the cylinder wall that the piston skirt didn't even go that low or come close to the area. It was just so when the rod swings by the lower wall that it doesn't clip the block with the cap nut and lets it clear well. The only sucky thing about it all is assembling the one set of rods to give you an idea of how much needs to come out before grinding then taking it apart and keeping everything really REALLY clean for reassembly later. Also when you do that make sure you get that metal dust from grinding out of everywhere inside the block. When it seems like its all out and clean, clean it one more time just to be sure.
Yeah ill probably tape off all the holes to make cleaning a bit easier, whatd you use to clean your block? Like just some parts washer or is there something specific for this application
 
I went 540 and had to go external pick-up, DOH!! Oh well, it's only Money!
 
Yeah definitely chevy rods, i was thinking this 440 source crank then id play around with combinations of rod length and flat top or dished pistons before
https://store.440source.com/4375-Stroke-Crankshafts/products/43/
Icon makes two pistons in their premium line for 4.375 stroke, 7.1 chevy rod. IC829 is a flat top (my guess, well into high elevens cr) and a d-dish, IC843 (much better for pump gas). Of course, there is a bunch of stuff that will determine final c.r that can be juggled .
Summit has specs on both pistons on their site. I would comparison shop price at jegs, last i checked, jegs was cheaper by almost a hundred bucks.
 
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