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What did you do to your Mopar today?

Rebuilt 904 tranny back in the car. Big shout out to Dynamic Racing Transmissions in N. Branford, Ct.
 
Cleaned up the front bumper mount brackets, removed both front fenders in anticipation of spraying color on the engine bay and front frame, outer wheel well area. In anticipation of reassembling the front end and getting it back on the car. Removed the right rear brake line to clean up and clear coat. Made a plan to fab a bracket to hold both center pull E brake cables up and out of the way of the drive shaft. Made a list of small parts that I still need to make/ buy.
 
Yet more parts for the next big round of upgrades.

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Billet Specialties half wrap steering wheel. Flaming river adapter and steering column on the way.
U.S. Car tool driveshaft loop.
XV Racing engine bay brace which will require some messaging to get in place.. this will add more support until I can install the inner fender brace.

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Schroth Rallye 4 harness.
H3R HalGuard Fire extinguisher in chrome with hold down.
 
I spent the day at a friends mopar yard , picked up parts for another friends 65 Plymouth and dropped off some 72 dart knuckles and drums as a donation if someone needs some .. I got to visit good Mopar friends and it helps get my wheels turning!
 
I got my fan shroud & valve cover gaskets.
KiKi Garden Kitty guarded them 'til I got home.
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I recurved the distributor, found a lot more power, mashed the gas after a rolling start & tore my indestructable motor mount in half while frying the tires
 
We pressed the bushings out of my buddies 67 GTX lower control arms (LCAs).

OMG I remember hacking out the outer portion of the bushing for hours when I restored my Road Runner. What a pain in the butt! Well, my buddy saw a video where some guy welded a washer to the bushing and pressed it out from the back. We decided to try it and I HIGHLY recommend this method - worked great!

Find a thick washer a bit smaller in diameter so the weld you put on it will weld the washer to the bushing and not to the LCA.
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Then simply weld the washer on and press out the bushing from the back! Works like a charm!
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Well I can get it started!!!. Turn Key nothing, dash lights on, so I Jumped Starter relay. It was stuck but with a few taps of my screw it Works with Key. (Will Replace) Always have to put gas down carb, starts for a few second and shuts off... Damn it.... still trying to get it figure out.. Bad Back making it difficult to test today.
 
Crawled under Satellite to look for exhaust leak. Flares on pipe weren't to good, pipe looks like it wasn't cut right. Flanges were bolted even but you can see on pipe doesn't look right. Will check for gaps around flares, really don't what to dump $600/$700 on a H-pipe. Going to push pipe off exhaust manifolds and make sure they're clean. When I bolt it will be try put flanges to a better location on manifolds.
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Yesterday took the Satellite to a local show near me.
Car got A LOT of comments , lots of pictures taken of it . And even sparked some really good conversations thru-out the day

Was a good car day .

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I put a Pertronix III ignition on my RR today. Seem to idle and run a little smoother. Also put on a new electronic voltage regulator.
 
Changed the oil in my air compressor motor to Mobil1 full synth 10W-30. Runs like Swiss Watch now, all of the way to 155PSI without a hiccup. Sprayed filler primer on some of the cowl and inners in prep for putting on some color soon. Pulled the dash assembly out for the last time until putting it back permanently after paint. Air hosed dust and crap out of nooks and crannies...will vacuum today.
 
Put a (fake) floor in the 500 - driver side rear seat footwell was rotted when I got the car. Used a shelf out of an old cabinet in the basement. Not pretty...but let me put the interior back in and drive it a little while I wait for AMD to get the floor panels off backorder (ETA May sometime...). Put the interior in, and drove it around for a while.

The flowmasters have got to GO. Ugh. Freakin' LOUD.

I need to adjust the kickdown linkage because...well...it doesn't kick down. Ever. And the upshifts seem to be "fuel economy tuned" - it shifts EARLY. Have to research all that - been a while since I fiddled with a 904. If it was a 413 like my turbo FWD stuff I know it like the back of my hand...

I also need to troubleshoot a dead temp gauge...and start researching upgrades to the factory manual drum brakes. And, the carb runs well enough...but at in-town cruise (light throttle), it surges a bit. Need to sort that out.

But, it was still fun to drive 'er! Considering yesterday was the most miles I've put on 'er since I bought 'er...it was a good day overall!
 
Triplegreen500 said:
I need to adjust the kickdown linkage because...well...it doesn't kick down. Ever. And the upshifts seem to be "fuel economy tuned" - it shifts EARLY. Have to research all that - been a while since I fiddled with a 904.
Click to expand...

It has been awhile since I fiddled with my 727 kickdown. If I recall properly, with the car off, put the carb linkage to full throttle. While at full throttle, then adjust the kickdown linkage all the way back.

I'm sure someone will correct me if I have it wrong. Regardless, look it up soon so you get this set properly.

Good Luck
 
Oh, it'll get done quickly. I don't want to burn out the trans because it's lugging and cooking fluids! But that process sounds correct. I'll RTFM just to be sure :D

I seem to remember having to put a bolt into the slot on my wagon years ago (aftermarket 4bbl on the 360, with a 727), in order to get it to downshift...presumably since the 500 is all factory parts, no bolt will be required!
 
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