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Stuck #2 header bolt

Have you tried a large punch with a large hammer to shock it sideways, sorta like swinging a bolt with buggered up threads with a nut on it against a vise or solid steel to make the threads conform to the nut threads.
Mike
 
I agree with the others that have suggested grinding on a box wrench till it fits. I did that for my headers about thirty years ago, still use the same wrench for the same job.
I ground a little off the outside circumfrence, and the angle ground the top of the socket area. I wish i could show a pic, but im a long ways away from it at the moment.
Al the other suggestions are doing it the hard way, IN MY OPINION. Buy a box end wrench you dont mind cutting on, cut till it fits, remove bolt, done.
 
If you don't have oxy/acc, you could try Mapp gas instead of propane, much hotter. I also have tappet wrenches that are longer/thinner than normal. If you can find a 6 pt box end to grind. A tube nut wrench ground to fit may also work without rounding.
 
So... you spend time re-machining the end of a box wrench, only to find that it's not gonna grip the rounded edges of the bolt. If it was a good bolt, and the exact correct size wrench, fine. A metal blade on a sawzall will cut off that bolt head in no time. We would sometimes have to do that on original manifold bolts back in the day, when installing replacement headers.
 
Thanks everyone. Torches are at my buddies 2 hours away. And thanks 66, I figured the propane wasn’t hot enough. I don’t mind grinding a box or open end wrench to fit really snug and try it again. If that doesn’t work - sawzall is coming out.

Thanks guys - as always, appreciate it!
 
Update: grinded down a 10mm to barely fit - even with breaker bar coming from the bottom it didn’t move.

So - went sawzall route. Cut head of bolt off but as you know, header bolts have that flange - built in washer per se - and there are remnants of that which will not allow the header/flange to come off. The cylinder head angle didn’t allow for even a 9” sawzall blade to be completely flush.

Even my mini die grinder will not fit in this area to grind off the excess.

Any ideas? Thanks!

15990BEA-7F4F-465E-B18B-0A909B5C452D.jpeg
 
I wasn't one of the sawzall recommendors.
But at this point I'd keep going left to right.
 
Don Frelier said:
I wasn't one of the sawzall recommendors.
But at this point I'd keep going left to right.
Click to expand...
I’ll keep trying that. Otherwise I will try some files - once I get the edge off I would surmise the flange should be able to pull out.
 
Die grinder with a tapered stone.

Edit: are you sure that wasn't a 7/16ths head on that bolt?
2nd edit: didnt see that you couldnt get your die grinder in. You will probably have to get a long shank burr that CAN get in there.
 
Last edited:
Yes it
33 IMP said:
Die grinder with a tapered stone.

Edit: are you sure that wasn't a 7/16ths head on that bolt?
2nd edit: didnt see that you couldnt get your die grinder in. You will probably have to get a long shank burr that CAN get in there.
Click to expand...

Yes it is a 7/16 head but was rounded off already from previous owner - thus trying to squeeze a grinded 10mm on there. :/
 
This is the reason I have always used studs in a motor with bolt holes open to water jackets. If you use connecting rod nuts they don't round off.
 
I can't help with the removal with everything that has been suggested, but when you get new header bolts grind down the heads of the tight ones so you can get a box wrench on them. Had to on my 62 318 poly with headers. Some tight boogers.
 
Time for the dermal tool with a grinder tip. It is slow but might get it into the hole. Or Harbor freight sell's grinding stones that will fit a drill. Faster than using a file by hand. That is a tight spot for sure.
 
Yes I know about tight spots the dermal tool got in to where I could not get to grind a spot at the A pillar and roof area where I welded. They are a handy tool even if you only use it once you will use it again and again.
 
I know this is down the road, but I'd consider switching to 3/8-inch header bolts when you get that header off (if you haven't already). I had similar issues with my 340 with 7/16 header bolts, and a couple of them were very tricky to loosen/tighten with a 7/16th wrench. I put on 3/8th bolts on and that extra 1/16th makes a big difference. There are multiple bolts that used to require an open end wrench that I can now use a boxed end. And even the tight fits -- like your No. 2 bolt -- are much easier to deal with. I also bought a box of 3/4 inch long bolts (along with standard 1 inch long) because the shorter bolts are much easier to work with on the tight, inside holes on cylinders 1, 2, 7 and 8.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-84542
 
Last edited:
Just to say I don't know why the header bolts are so hard to get too. On a 440 we had and raced they where a pain in the B. I like the stud idea. But what about the star head bolt's. We had a wrench we had ground down. Also had a wrench that was off angled open end. But it being froze in the block make is that much tougher. Once headers is off weld a nut on it and take it out. Good luck and hope it all work's out for you.
 
A boxed end opened and ground to fit over the bolts is needed. You can run them down with an open end but don't torque them with it.
What I've used almost forever......
upload_2021-3-24_8-40-51.png
 
blue69runner said:
Time for the dermal tool with a grinder tip. It is slow but might get it into the hole. Or Harbor freight sell's grinding stones that will fit a drill. Faster than using a file by hand. That is a tight spot for sure.
Click to expand...

Got a variety set of grinding stones with a 1/4 shank - going to attach to my mini air die grinder or my drill and go to town.

Once headers and flange can be removed then I gotta get a nut on there and weld it on and hopefully have more room to access and remove! Thanks!
 
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