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Mini starter alignment

I would not grind my block.

People grind blocks because they don't want to ruin a POS new starter that's under so-called warranty for fear they can't replace it, so they ruin their blocks instead!
 
People grind blocks because they don't want to ruin a POS new starter that's under so-called warranty for fear they can't replace it, so they ruin their blocks instead!

To each their own. I don’t care. I was pointing out to the OP that the starter may actually also be hitting the block so for him to have a look there too. If some people don’t care about grinding down their already weak and poorly cast aluminum off shore starters to fit that’s their choice. My choice is to make my life easier for now and possible future events.

I ground 15-20 trough off a useless area of the block. Not the side of the block where the terminal block goes or near water jackets or cylinder walls etc...

My engine builder, a mopar specialist, also a machinist, and a tool maker does it, did it, and recommended it so that’s good enough for me.

If you want to see what 15-20 thou looks like go get your electric caliper with the Digital read out and open it until you see .015 on the display screen. This amount in that location does not ruin a block.

Is this $400 CSR starter a POS?


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No issues, your engine so you can grind all you like. My point is that before I would be grinding on the block I would want to make sure that it was necessary. You have to remember that there are others who come on here who may not have a lot of experience and saying "grind the block" may not but the best solution. I have taken a grinder to many engines for one reason or another but that is after ensuring that it was necessary and I knew exactly how much I was taking off and what the potential effect might be.

Sometimes you have to do what you have to do but in general if the engine was working previously, the replacement of the starter should not in most cases require grinding, however if it does, so be it.


Sure, and I can respect your words.
This was an all new build 400 block, not a previous running established motor etc, and I had a choice of 2 mini starters, both needed the extra room and this is an essentially useless part of the block. There is no harm removing material from here. I certainly wouldn’t recommend grinding the side of the block where the terminal block is. Nothing near the cylinders or water jackets etc. Grinding once on the block for me in this instance ensure that if I have to service any of it in the future I won’t have grief or grinding to do down the road.

All this was to just show the OP that his mini starter may also have other clearance issues, not just the terminal block.
 
To each their own. I don’t care. I was pointing out to the OP that the starter may actually also be hitting the block so for him to have a look there too. If some people don’t care about grinding down their already weak and poorly cast aluminum off shore starters to fit that’s their choice. My choice is to make my life easier for now and possible future events.

I ground 15-20 trough off a useless area of the block. Not the side of the block where the terminal block goes or near water jackets or cylinder walls etc...

My engine builder, a mopar specialist, also a machinist, and a tool maker does it, did it, and recommended it so that’s good enough for me.

If you want to see what 15-20 thou looks like go get your electric caliper with the Digital read out and open it until you see .015 on the display screen. This amount in that location does not ruin a block.

Is this $400 CSR starter a POS?


View attachment 1088077View attachment 1088078

I agree that .015-.020 is not a lot and should not have any effect on the engine/block. My question is more about why the starter/s didn't fit in the first place? Was the block a bad casting or is this just something specific to the starters?

I wouldn't say that the CSR starter is a POS, I would say it's pretty expensive for what it is but I am sure it does the job.
 
I agree that .015-.020 is not a lot and should not have any effect on the engine/block. My question is more about why the starter/s didn't fit in the first place? Was the block a bad casting or is this just something specific to the starters?

I wouldn't say that the CSR starter is a POS, I would say it's pretty expensive for what it is but I am sure it does the job.

All the mini’s seem to touch and yes I’m sure there are casting variances. My 1968 cast 383 didn’t need much work to make it clear, just a tad. This 1976 400 block needed more.

I think RB motors don’t need anything, must be the shorter more squat and condensed size of the B motor than causes this. Just like pointed out in moparts archives many hit and some choose to grind the starter and then others like me.

I didn’t pay $400 bucks for the CSR either as this trouble maker A100 fella so rudely commented on. I got it as a new take off from a guy who used it twice on a run in stand on a 440 and a 426. I paid $80 bucks. Score. In the end I actually ended up using a Delco mini on this motor and will save the CSR for a race motor or real high compression engine. Or sell it...
 
I've used a couple $35 minis and they've been just fine. I personally have a 383 and 2 440's with them, none of those blocks needed grinding. The 383/a500 combo is the one that the back side of the snout needed ground where the oe starter had fit.
 
I have put them into 318's, 440's, 340's and 360's without issue but that doesnt mean it can't happen as I have seen a lot of things that "shouldn't" happen or fall into that black hole of "I've never seen that before"... To the OP's point, sometimes "**** happens" and you have to do what you have do do. Sometimes its a matter of tolerance stack with all of the pieces being on the plus or negative side.
 
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