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Lifter tick after break-in

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Time for a roller cam If not, go with a solid lifter and skip the hydraulic flat-tappet all together. I'm still running a set of Crane / Isky ductile-iron adjustable rockers, they work perfectly fine, if buying new, Harland Sharp is the way to go. I'd go with a thick-walled 5/16" pushrod from Smith Brothers or Steward Performance while your swapping camshafts for the next go around. The 3/8" .145 wall set from Stewards I put in my 470" low-deck were a work of art, also sent me a single pushrod to verify before building the entire set which was nice. Small shop (Denny Steward [NHRA Super Stock winner] & Bill Nelson), they build pushrods and solid-roller lifters for the 'Big Boys'.
 
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I think You need to, take the intake off it and have a look, and quit all this speculation. Pretty loud first few minutes, it should have quieted up some by that point if things went well.
What did the oil look like?
 
I think You need to, take the intake off it and have a look, and quit all this speculation. Pretty loud first few minutes, it should have quieted up some by that point if things went well.
What did the oil look like?
When the break-in run was finished, we
checked the oil. There was some very
fine suspended particles but nothing
to a great amount. I would assume
some metal is normal. I'll be making
another trip to the shop this weekend.
We'll pull the top off and start looking
at stuff. Thanks for your help.
 
Had an emergency come up with the wife and
didn't have time to investigate the engine noise
until just recently.
Good news on the engine, (the wife, not so much).
As it turns out, the header studs were not tight,
so we removed and reinstalled them after applying
some loc-tight. No more tick. The engine sounds
great and is firing on all cylinders.
Thanks to all who offered advice.
 
Thanks, Kim.
She's recovering but it's going to be a long
road. Got a home healthcare nurse coming
to the house once a day to tend to her needs.
 
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