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Battery Posts - Any Available with Both Top & Side?

Will-Fonkjam

Will-Fonkjam

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Anyone running with both top & side posts in their B-body? If so, which one? Any pics?
I'm looking for a good one for an under hood location in my 69 Coronet -preferably a lead acid style... but will consider AGM.
Reason: Soon I'll be installing EFI and the power connection needs to be directly on the battery and I don't want to splice into or crowd the OEM battery cable & post.
I'd prefer to use the extra side post for this. And a lead-acid battery for ease of long term preservation & maintenance.
Will
 
I ran my EFI off of the Starter Relay post, through the firewall onto a post under the dash.
 
Interstate Battery MTP 34/78 Dual terminal.

MTP-78DT1.jpg
 
I also use a duel post battery for a sniper EFI in one of my cars. I’m using an AGM battery from NAPA.
 
Will-Fonkjam said:
Anyone running with both top & side posts in their B-body? If so, which one? Any pics?
I'm looking for a good one for an under hood location in my 69 Coronet -preferably a lead acid style... but will consider AGM.
Reason: Soon I'll be installing EFI and the power connection needs to be directly on the battery and I don't want to splice into or crowd the OEM battery cable & post.
I'd prefer to use the extra side post for this. And a lead-acid battery for ease of long term preservation & maintenance.
Will
Click to expand...

If you are using your ammeter, that won't be the correct procedure, but from alt post... or a buss related to.
 
Said would consider AGM...
Anyway, found one that will work.
The 34/78 series seems to be the key.
Local Advance Auto has this one for $149.99 incl. core
Model 34/78/4
Thanks Leo!
Die Hard 34 78-4.jpg
 
Remove the DieHard paper labels, Paint the top letting black, Stick a Mopar label on the front and fake caps on top and....
I'll have a conversation piece!
Will
 
Will-Fonkjam said:
???
Click to expand...
Running the risk of being off-topic, all vehicle loads need to be on the alternator side of the ammeter if still running one. Current loads added to the battery will register as charging current and can over stress the ammeter and/or related connections. As mentioned, if the ammeter has been by-passed, no matter.
 
Last edited:
OP:
Reason: Soon I'll be installing EFI and the power connection needs to be directly on the battery and I don't want to splice into or crowd the OEM battery cable & post. I'd prefer to use the extra side post for this.
Click to expand...

My Reply, which is based on stock/factory configuration to figure it out, so is the default stage to think on:
If you are using your ammeter, that won't be the correct procedure, but from alt post... or a buss related to.
Click to expand...

Other reply, which even is true, is based with nothing exposed, not even thinking in the initial factory configuration which is the main and logic one... and still would need to think on how any mod was made to save from this to make it true:
BUT....IF your not using an ammeter, it does not matter....the subject is the battery type, not how it's connected......
Click to expand...


soooooo...
 
Last edited:
72RoadrunnerGTX said:
Running the risk of being off-topic, all vehicle loads need to be on the alternator side of the ammeter if still running one. Current loads added to the battery will register as charging current and can over stress the ammeter and/or related connections. As mentioned, if the ammeter has been by-passed, no matter.
Click to expand...

So if the OP was using the original ammeter gauge and the sniper system says to hook up directly to the positive and negative battery terminals what would be the correct way to install. I understand the factory ammeter isn't capable of handling the additional load of EFI but not sure how to get around it with the ability to still use the factory ammeter gauge.
 
69 GeeTeeX said:
So if the OP was using the original ammeter gauge and the sniper system says to hook up directly to the positive and negative battery terminals what would be the correct way to install. I understand the factory ammeter isn't capable of handling the additional load of EFI but not sure how to get around it with the ability to still use the factory ammeter gauge.
Click to expand...


With a GOOD alt the ammeter won't read anything from the EFI system... except if alternator is not capable to feed it and that's the moment the batt will feed and ammeter will read a partial discharge. Dunno the load EFI system requires to work though! 3 to 5 amps ? The ammeter could be on 2-3 amps discharge reading with a low capacity alt.
 
Nacho-RT74 said:
With a GOOD alt the ammeter won't read anything from the EFI system... except if alternator is not capable to feed it and that's the moment the batt will feed and ammeter will read a partial discharge. Dunno the load EFI system requires to work though! 3 to 5 amps ? The ammeter could be on 2-3 amps discharge reading with a low capacity alt.
Click to expand...

Once again suppositions on your part. How did you reach the conclusion about the ammeter not reading anything from the EFI system until you know specifics about the total system? Generalities are meaningless unless substantive. FYI.....you need to review the fundamentals of Kirchoffs voltage and current nodal analysis before making statements that deal with nothing. PM me if you need or want further information and explanation on Kirchoffs laws.
BOB RENTON
 
My reasoning for a direct connection to the battery posts is primarily to minimize electrical turbulence or fluctuations that can potentially cause problems with these EFI systems.

Sure there are other ways to get your honey, but if you tap right into the hive you know it's pure :). However, I still want it to look good & stealthy.

No ammeter any more... I just monitor voltage.
 
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