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THIS!
aluminum indy maxx water block pros and cons
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Hey, thanks, i'll check these out. Looks promising.
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No joke.
The one time I had to call Bill Mitchell Products with a question I actually got Bill Mitchell himself on the phone.
He was helpful and genuinely friendly, and knows his product. He also has high praise for the vendor I'm buying from who is building my motor.
That brings me to a point I must make.
Not only is this builder, Southeast Performance R/T a decades long Mopar race engine shop, but he is a retailer for multiple manufacturers, and I am absolutely certain that there isn't anyone who can beat his price on the products he sells, products that make up everything needed to build an EPIC engine.
Bobzilla
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I think good practice is to purchase your block through the machine shop you’ll have doing the final machining. If the shop is a vendor of Indy Cylinder Heads parts, they will handle any major problems before they accept the block right after it arrives.
In the event you order an unfinished block from Indy directly and it has a major issue, you are stuck with it, especially if it sits around a long time before anyone gets a good look at it.
Really hoping the new owners tighten up quality control so no really bad parts come out the door. They do have good stuff.
In the event you order an unfinished block from Indy directly and it has a major issue, you are stuck with it, especially if it sits around a long time before anyone gets a good look at it.
Really hoping the new owners tighten up quality control so no really bad parts come out the door. They do have good stuff.
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Lookie what I got pictures of this evening! My own actual BMP block!
Actually I hadn't thought to ask my builder for pictures of the block after BMP shipped it to the machine shop, but I guess I was needing some motivation.
Not only did I buy my block through Southeast Performance, but he sold me a good bit of the parts that went into my Roadrunner already, like the Viking triple adjustable rear shocks, USCT frame strengthening parts, my Dakota Digital RTX series gauge system and the modules I added to it, and more.
The great thing is they are dealers for Callies, Molnar, and so much more that is going to make up the rest of the engine! With the employees that have decades of Mopar specific experience in NASCAR (when Chrysler was participating) and 1320 racing teams and individuals all involved in building for performance, these relationships are well established, and since I'm getting as much as possible from them plus they're doing the build, well, I'm getting "the hook up" and with the cost of appropriate parts for such a high level block, that's going to help, a lot, since I'm really reaching beyond my means to make this happen.
Enough
from me, since:
Here's the 3 pix I got:
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This is the direct quote regarding what additional machining is required:
"these only need lifter bores honed to size, line hone mains, deck and bore"
So that answers the OP question, but I wouldn't consider any of that "fixes before it's ready to assemble". Seems like very basic machining that is involved with any build.
"these only need lifter bores honed to size, line hone mains, deck and bore"
So that answers the OP question, but I wouldn't consider any of that "fixes before it's ready to assemble". Seems like very basic machining that is involved with any build.
Best Machine in Detroit will be doing the machining. I need to call Chuck about some other things as well. I did try calling Stage 5 today, but no one answers. I'll try again tomorrow. Thanks
Nice. How big a stroke can that block handle and still be internal oiled? Only reason to get the Indy Maxx block would be if i wanted the short deck.
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Bill Mitchell Products (386) 957-3009
Post the response so we can have it here as a point of reference.
Let us know how the call goes. Bill sounded like an old friend when I spoke with him.
Thanks, i'll call tomorrow.
Bill Mitchell didn't know how much stroke could be used with this block and retain the internal oiling. I did call Indy as well about the Indy Maxx block and they claim up to 4.500 stroke retaining internal oiling. The bill Mitchell block comes with bushed lifter bores and the Indy does not. I found a Bill Mitchell block for $5400, quite a bit less than the Indy at $6500. I can also get wedge motor mount on the BM block if i want. I use one motor mount on pass side to locate. Thanks guys
67 hemi X
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Does Bill Mitchell have blocks in stock, or is there a substancial wait for them ?
I don't think so at this point, but he told me he had some coming in this month. I will be calling him next week or maybe the week after and at least get an order in.
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He is at the point, according to my builder, where BMP is going from filling pre-orders with $500 deposits to stocking blocks for sale, at about 30 units per month. I'm not sure how that 30 breaks out, Hemi, RB, small bore, big bore, etc. I can say if you want an aluminum block, BMP has them, for real, not "Coming Soon" or "New and Improved" vs "Almost Unusable"....
IF Indy has improved their Maxx blocks, that's great. I have to want any Mopar dedicated shop to do well. Bill Mitchell took a good block and made it better, and has been cranking them out since.
Hemirunner
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I put 4.500 stroke in stock 440 blocks with internal oiling all the time using 2.200 journals and H-beam rods and a Bridgeport. The BMP should take it no problem. I don’t think I’ve ever used internal oiling with an Indy block so I’m no help there. Forget the wedge mount idea, it’ll just be a header nightmare. Put a torque strap or a motor plate on it. If you’ve got cash to burn, buy the KB block. Good luck.
Why the KB block?
Hemirunner
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Because once you go down this road it just leads to wanting more. You start out with a tunnel ram and a couple carbs and the next thing you know it’s got a screw blower and it’s on methanol. The KB will take more power than any of the rest.
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FWIW, the BMP blocks are already in use at the 2,000 HP plus range. Bill probably knows more specifics, but when I asked him when they were switching from nodular iron to billet steel caps, he told me that there were nodular iron caps on his blocks that were putting out over 2,000 horsepower. It wouldn't matter to me, and I only see one possibility regarding increasing the power on my 541. I let the builder know that I do want to be able to make use of the Nitrous Express 2bbl spray plate system. Rated at 50-300 horsepower, I would probably jump in at 150 and that would be after I get a handle on the ponies I have already. It may be that I can only use it in the last part of the track, but if I need a fender and I get a half a car length, that works.
To do anything else would ruin my intent for my car, although some may say 700 ft lbs is going to be hard to wrangle.
69sunfireGTX
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Wrangle? Sounds like that was spoken by someone who never had 700 at their finger tips or should I say foot.
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I admit, that's me. I've asked the forum if they could give me an idea of what it's like, and had some good replies, but I'm sure no words can substitute for the experience. I guess the closest I've come is somewhere in the low 500 ft lbs range, based on stock torque values vs lightly modded.Wrangle? Sounds like that was spoken by someone who never had 700 at their finger tips or should I say foot.
You sound like you may know. Describe as best as possible. Videos are a big plus!
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