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Power problem with mopars

mpro69rr

FBBO Gold Member
FBBO Gold Member
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Hey Guys,
I'm trying to tackle the power problem that mopars have. The problem I am talking about is the wires burning at the bulkhead and ammeter. I have read about two options which are below. Has anyone tried these options and how did they work? Which is the better way to go? I have a 69 RR with a 383.
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0/all.html

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges2.shtml

I know people have done these but I wanted to know which one is best. I have bought everything I need to do one of these. I have also bought a new 95 amp alternator and was wondering if the extra amps would have an affect on the current wiring? Thanks!
 
At first it sounded like a tire consumption issue.
 
The MAD system is the way to go. That 95 amp alternator needs a larger gauge wire from output terminal to the starter relay with a fusible link at the relay end.
Mike
 
The MAD system is the way to go. That 95 amp alternator needs a larger gauge wire from output terminal to the starter relay with a fusible link at the relay end.
Mike

Yes, I bought 8 GA wire with a 12 GA fusible link, this was recommended with a 95 amp alternator. Is this enough?
 
Anyone else implement one of these options?
 
I've done the mad upgrade along with placing the headlights on relays. I finally added a Denso 60a alternator to keep things from dimming at idle. No issues and I would do it again.
 
I've done the mad upgrade along with placing the headlights on relays. I finally added a Denso 60a alternator to keep things from dimming at idle. No issues and I would do it again.

If I may ask, why did you add relays to your lights? Do they draw a lot of power? Thanks!
 
I did mine too because I went to halogens and boy are they bright!
Mike
 
I also did the MAD upgrade and part of that is no more ammeter, in it's place is a voltmeter. I also bought a brand new stock under dash and under hood harness - the good one from Year One (MS - something?). Pricey (over $450 around 6 yrs ago) but worth it.
 
I also did the MAD upgrade and part of that is no more ammeter, in it's place is a voltmeter. I also bought a brand new stock under dash and under hood harness - the good one from Year One (MS - something?). Pricey (over $450 around 6 yrs ago) but worth it.

Yes, I have all new dash and engine harnesses. I didn't want to take any chances.
 
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