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New "problem"...blowing oil and the dipstick out its tube when I mat the gas pedal...

Budnicks said:
he doesn't have/run a 'huge pressurizer on top' either :poke:
Click to expand...
Lol...
You guys...:thumbsup::lol::poke:
Both of you are 2 here I know well, and sometimes I think YOU will be happy once I finally get or do something I've posted ad nauseum about.
You both have been so helpful.
True that I don't have a big huffer on top.
I recall from my Chrysler Conquest TSi (Mitsu) days they made a big deal on that forum about a product/system called "krank vents" and I'd imagine that was because they were turbocharged.
 
could be windage at the crank too
may not be rings, but the rings are probably letting go by
especially on an older build

do the leak down test

stock oil pans & stock windage trays can only do so much
a crank scrapper & a good windage tray
a good quality (not stock or cheap) oil-pan with kick out especially,
are worth it in power
& to save your engine

-------------------------------------------------------------
a lil off subject, but good info

find & watch the Engine Masters 'Pantastic' episode

another one about oil viscosity, who's oil, synthetic or not
& really surprising actual oil levels too,
most made more power 'a quart less' than mfgr recommendation
will surprise, a bunch of the know it alls here

you really want to have an oil capacity
rule of thumb, ballpark'd
about 1 qt for every 1,000 rpm intended use
doesn't mean the 8-quart pans needs all 8 qts either
it's nice to have more volume than needed too
so deceleration or acceleration it's not starving the pick up

------------------------------------------------------------

lots of food for thought
especially if you plan on building a $25k all-aluminum beast
spend the $$$ on a really good oil pan
($1,500 isn't a bad deal for an extra 40hp),
windage tray, scrapper & really good pump &/or pick-up system
don't believe the naysayers, it's worth ever freaken' penny

(or go dry-sump)

(maybe a vacuum pump too)

or that the Milodon 7" 7qt pan needs 7qts either
(that I run, I sort of went the easy route)
I have an extra 2 qts, 2 K&N remote filters also,
up above the engine level on the top inner fender
the dipstick shows about a 1/2 qt low, (lines maybe)
even with 7qts & the 2qts in remote filters full = 9 qts
the oil is about 1/2" below the windage tray
(I hope it's not getting aerated or hitting the crank, bad news)

Just because a F/C runs a 12-qt pan doesn't mean
it the proper set up for a street
or even bodied drag car/street/strip car

don't skimp on a pan or oiling provisions

don't get steered wrong
 
Speaking of supercharged 440 Mopar mills, I caught a few videos of a literal 1976 or so motor home 440 being pulled and, after a cam springs replacement (it turned out to have a "RV" cam in it already, very mild) and the appx 8:1 CR 440, Edelbrock "Performer" intake and an adapter for an appx 800 cfm Holley carb the shop installed. It baselined around 337 HP and about 447 ft lbs torque.
Then
They installed a mild cam, gained only about 10 HP.
Then
They used some nitrous, and got about another 100 HP and 120 ft lbs.
THEN they installed a blow through carb and a 78/75 VS Racing turbo! At only 5½ pounds of boost, they got 476 HP and just under 600 ft lbs torque. One more twist of the boost to 6.8 pounds and got 512 HP and almost 620 ft lbs of torque.
If I wasn't dead set on having a 6bbl, turbo or supercharging today is such an easier, far less expensive way to make power!
 
I'm ashamed to say I've never dropped the oil pan and windage tray on my 440.
I'm as sure as I can be without seeing it that this 71 440 w/6 pack crank and rods surely must have the factory windage tray.
I like the "road race" Moroso pan for its profile in that it doesn't hang so low under the car, but holds 7? or 8? quarts "full". I think the more "conventional" deep pan is better suited for short filling by a quart to give the crank some more air space. I also REALLY like the reserve oil systems that hold a quart or so and push or pull it from the pan depending on demand.
I'll get great recommendations from the builder. Southeast Performance R/T have decades of MOPAR racing experience!
 
biomedtechguy said:
Lol...
You guys...:thumbsup::lol::poke:
Both of you are 2 here I know well, and sometimes I think YOU will be happy once I finally get or do something I've posted ad nauseum about.
You both have been so helpful.
True that I don't have a big huffer on top.
I recall from my Chrysler Conquest TSi (Mitsu) days they made a big deal on that forum about a product/system called "krank vents" and I'd imagine that was because they were turbocharged.
Click to expand...
:asskiss: we love you still too... :bananadance:
 
Really good info guys! I'm having (and always have had) the same problems with my 512rb built by the now defunct muscle motors. I think my motor was one of the last to leave their shop and now you have me worried about pulling it down and checking everything! It still runs good, although temperamental to weather, but it has always been very hard to tune properly as well. Suppose I'll go get my hands greasy and bring it home for the spring/ summer from its winter resting place!
 
did you use moly rings ?, I used them once, took years to seat, used oil then I used it hard which was all the time
 
I have no idea what they put in it. I know, I know, how don't I know! Found out after I paid them that they were a shady shop towards the end. Live and learn I suppose
 
Darter6 said:
Old trick is a spark plug boot over the dipstick tube then insert the dipstick.The boot will hold the dipstick in place and won't push out.
Click to expand...
:thumbsup: AGAIN, thanks @Darter6 :thankyou:
So.....
I got a text message Thursday from a car club member about a "get together" in the parking lot of an iconic local burgers and shakes spot, right off the river, in an old town near where I live now. I have close family from there, most who have passed away, but I've been going there since I was a baby, and I even lived there in my own little house I rented WAY BACK in the early 90s!!
The weather is beautiful, cool and dry, and that's all about to change to sweltering heat and humidity soon, all the way into September...
So I HAD to go!!:bananadance::confederateflag::usflag::thumbsup:
I cleaned up the remaining droplets of oil from the dipstick tube mishap, and replaced the very nice looking but kinda small Mopar breather cap (that has small holes and a black "foam" filter-maybe too restrictive for me for now) with the largest locally available one, a K&N pleated filter breather. I also used the boot from an old ignition coil wire, and that fit very well on the tip of the dipstick tube and dipstick.
No problem that I know of, although it was dark when I drove home. I only matted the loud pedal once, from a slow roll 1st gear burnout as I left the venue that I was "challenged" to do by a MOPAR guy I know from local shows and the dragstrip...what can I say. It was a good one, open headers and 11" wide drag radials twisted by 4.10 gears...
I'll follow-up after I take a look tomorrow morning.
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20210402_192743.jpg
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Nice! As usual that yellow '70 is the coolest car there.
Just remember with breathers like that to always hold them by the bottom edge when installing or removing otherwise you'll pull them apart or squish them.... I know you're probably thinking "how could a little tiny guy like me break one of those?":D but they're just glued together, and sometimes not very well...
 
No signs of oil anywhere. Dipstick is where I left it, thanks again @Darter6 .
The K&N breather shows no signs of oil coming through it, and while I haven't pulled it off the valve cover to look inside, I'm going to say that it and/or the rubber boot did their job. I have another local cruise in tonight, and I'm going to that, so I'm ok with where I'm at with this for the moment.
20210402_191403.jpg
 
On cr8crshr's build with tuning and such after getting it running. We discovered very quickly that when the PCV is out of the cover [disconnected], pressure builds up and oil piss's out the oil fill tube as you've said. Couldn't figure out why? He just has the 1/2 twist caps that look like a gas cap, no breather caps. When the PVC is hooked up, all is fine. BTW, he's using the black Mopar valve covers and a stock type PVC. And this was on a new build. Hope this helps?? Good Luck
 
If you use the sparkplug boot it will fit the tube tight and also the dip stick.
But maybe the the distributor boot works too. Never tried one. Cool !
 
Darter6 said:
If you use the sparkplug boot it will fit the tube tight and also the dip stick.
But maybe the the distributor boot works too. Never tried one. Cool !
Click to expand...
Works great. All of the old spark plug boots I had seem to be 90° boots, so I thought to try the coil wire boot and violà! It fits nicely, and has enough overlap to grab the tube and the stick.
I have stabbed the loud pedal a couple of times and no gushers, and driven 15-25 minutes each way to a couple of local car meets, and the breather isn't dripping or soaked in oil and it isn't coming out anywhere else, so I'm good for now, with a reminder to explore my compression and do a leak down check. No oil in water or water in oil that I see looking for it, and seeing a clear exhaust while listening to the strong heartbeat of my 440 6bbl when I was getting ready to head out, well, you all know how sweet that can be!
 
Glad you figured out the problem.

We now use that exact K&N breather and no more issues.

I really doubt you need to seal the dipstick anymore aince you relieved the crankcase pressure. We do use a locking dipstick, though.
 
Dodge 330 said:
Glad you figured out the problem.
Click to expand...
Thanks, but I wouldn't go that far. I still need to check compression and do a leak down/blow by check if possible. I haven't even looked at the "nice kit" I bought from NAPA years ago that serves one or some of those processes.
I seem to have resolved the symptoms, for now.
Dodge 330 said:
We now use that exact K&N breather and no more issues.
Click to expand...
It looked like what I imagined I wanted, in that it's large diameter and free flowing. If I could get it up higher relative to the surface of the valve cover, I would.
Dodge 330 said:
locking dipstick
Click to expand...
Where is such an item available, and I assume it requires a new dipstick tube?
Also I would imagine you have to determine the correct oil level at a complete drain and fill event?
 
biomedtechguy said:
Thanks, but I wouldn't go that far. I still need to check compression and do a leak down/blow by check if possible. I haven't even looked at the "nice kit" I bought from NAPA years ago that serves one or some of those processes.
I seem to have resolved the symptoms, for now.

It looked like what I imagined I wanted, in that it's large diameter and free flowing. If I could get it up higher relative to the surface of the valve cover, I would.

Where is such an item available, and I assume it requires a new dipstick tube?
Also I would imagine you have to determine the correct oil level at a complete drain and fill event?
Click to expand...
Mancini used to sell then but last I looked they didn't have them anymore. Yes, it's a complete assembly that you have to mark your "full" line on.
 
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