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Did I do something wrong ?

Are both adjusting bolts the exact same length? There are some out there that are longer. I would also ditch those washers on the shock bolts, use a smaller one or no washer so when you torque the bolt it exerts maximum pressure right on the shock sleeve....many mystery front end chunks caused by that, and the fact so many shocks no longer have serrated ends on the sleeves.
I’m assuming the correct bars they were in the car when I got it

I’ll remove the shock washers tomorrow
Cars been real easy to work on with the exception of this
 
You have to drop the suspension as far as it will go, with the bumper stops removed. Your bars are not clocked simultaneously.
So remove the bumper stop on lower control arm, then release the adjuster bolt all out and then do I readjust ? Raise ?
 
The upper control arm bumpstop limits extension of the suspension. Removing it allows the control arms to droop further to get more travel and adjustment of the socket in the lower control arm. The lower control arm bumpstop does not.
 
The upper control arm bumpstop limits extension of the suspension. Removing it allows the control arms to droop further to get more travel and adjustment of the socket in the lower control arm. The lower control arm bumpstop does not.
I get that part but do I remove ans release all adjustment and them readjust or ?
Thanks
 
I back off the 3/4" bolt until I can see the end of it flush with this:

1 uca_LI.jpg
 
When you adjusted the height, did you use the measuring points detailed in the Factory Service Manual? It uses measurements on the suspension to set the ride height. Sometimes, people set ride height by measuring to the wheel opening in the fender, which doesn't work well. The body should not be used for the ride height measurement because it is not consistent. The important thing is to get the suspension geometry correct as detailed in the FSM. Cheers!
 
I think I put the arm in wrong because the driver side looks aligned well but the passenger seems off and I noticed on the pass side the claw that raises the car up doesn’t come all the way down

3683ABB1-8DE0-486A-93A7-E8E698EC6CF7.jpeg 10B2CE87-CE10-410F-9201-1E8B56AE091B.jpeg F0F051E5-454B-4B83-B164-55C52ED16D1B.jpeg DA229EA9-7D08-491D-B7D1-BE7619DC9EDA.jpeg AD54388A-0B03-45F9-BDF1-1D51FA84AB1D.jpeg 083B58A9-9794-4930-A55D-1FB683D1A5FC.jpeg
 
Can I adjust it with the rotor and caliper one? I think I need to just straighten it out
 
You need to slide the torsion bar out of the cross member and rotate it until the LCA is all the way down and then slide it back into the cross member.
 
You need to slide the torsion bar out of the cross member and rotate it until the LCA is all the way down and then slide it back into the cross member.
Thank you sir that seems about right
Doing that right now
 
It kinda looks like whoever changed the bushings did not support by the hex and smashed the inside of those arms together, you might want to pull them and pry them apart a little bit. I could be wrong, it just looks compressed a little, maybe binding it so it does not rotate easy.
 
It kinda looks like whoever changed the bushings did not support by the hex and smashed the inside of those arms together, you might want to pull them and pry them apart a little bit. I could be wrong, it just looks compressed a little, maybe binding it so it does not rotate easy.
Yeah it’s good now
Both bolts are at about the same height as far as adjustment.

so what i did was I noticed the adjustment claw didn’t move when I took all the tension off from the bolt so I removed the ball joint bolts, rotor and loosened the bolts on the strut and the pivot bolt in the lower control arm bushing and like Jerry said I took out the torsion bar and made sure it went in all the way.
I think the torsion bar wasn’t in all the way.
Because when I put my finger on the other end I could feel it was out out so once it went in all the way then the claw wasn’t binding anymore and it now adjusts right

can’t wait to get my alignment finally

any recommendations on specs ?
 
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With radial tires I would shoot for
Camber .025-.05 negative, or tilted in towards the frame

Caster 2.0 positive, or tilted back towards the rear of the car

Toe 1/16-1/8"
You may not get very much caster with stock components, you may need offset upper control arm bushings, just always shoot for the wheel tilted in and back with radials. Your alignment guy should know this, just do not use stock bias ply tire factory settings.
 
You can also shim the lower ball joint to gain a little camber if you need it, have to see where its at when on the rack good luck.
 
You can also shim the lower ball joint to gain a little camber if you need it, have to see where its at when on the rack good luck.
Like THIS:
A R.gif
 
Well at least you know now, the good news is you really do not know what you need until it is on the rack, then your alignment guy can tell you how much you need, just shims or the offset bushings too. You can throw the shims in in 30 minutes on a fresh build like that so no big deal.
 
I like to set my camber right about 0 on both sides and caster with stock suspension parts I give it as much positive caster as I can and you will be lucky to get 2 positive with a stock front end. Toe in 1/16 to 1/8. I race my car sometimes also and I like them specs for my street/strip cars. Good luck getting her all done and setup. Ron
 
Zero camber is fine for a drag car. You want some negative camber for a car that will be street driven if you want a little better handling and even tire wear.
 
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