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Oil leak fix

diesel_lv

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Fresh engine build, about 2,000 miles on it now. Leaked a little engine oil from the very beginning. Figured I messed up the main bearing install. But it could wait until I had my cooling issues, fuel injection issues and transmission issues worked out. In final steps of resolving fuel injection and the rest are good. So, 383 block with Milidon road racing pan and not sure of brand, high quality/expensive thick composit gasket. Pulled off transmission/torque converter cover and took an endoscope up in there to verify it was not the cam or lifter journal plugs leaking. Block looked dry up there. Then I noticed no oil on inside of inspection cover and did not notice any oil on block above oil pan. Now I'm thinking not the rear main but oil pan. Question, can I retorque the pan and possibly stop the leak if that's where it's coming from or will I end up pulling the pan and redoing it if that's where it's coming from? It is lightly damp around entire pan and heavy wet at rear. Thanks.
 
It’s not uncommon to retorque things after some heat cycles but I’d be checking them rocker covers.. Good luck and keep us posted!
I hate autocorrect!!!! It keeps messing with me!
 
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Yup, it's an easy first try at least. Don't know how thick the pan flange is but if it's similar to a stocker, you can dimple it at the bolt holes fairly easy. I've seen some who use the spreaders on the pan like is used on other makes of valve covers.....
 
The intake/valley gasket at the head to block area are prone to leak and a little rtv is usually used to prevent leaks. Also the oil pressure sender is at the back of the engine check to see if any weepage there.
 
Block is dry up top, inspection mirror and flashlight show upper back of block and transmission bellhousing dry, no leaks around valve covers. It is only wet on the oil pan edges and at the back of pan and then of course the spread to the rest of underbody from driving.
Don't know how thick the pan flange is but if it's similar to a stocker, you can dimple it at the bolt holes fairly easy.
It's a very thick steel flange, Milodon pan, I made sure when I torqued it on engine stand on initial build, that it didn't dimple or squish gasket out. Calls for 15 lb/ft. I crawled under there this morning and retorqued to 12 lb/ft. And they all snuggled up some. Wsiting on 8 new injectors for FI and then I'll be able to start it and check. Hoping this stops the leak.
 
Fresh engine build, about 2,000 miles on it now. Leaked a little engine oil from the very beginning. Figured I messed up the main bearing install. But it could wait until I had my cooling issues, fuel injection issues and transmission issues worked out. In final steps of resolving fuel injection and the rest are good. So, 383 block with Milidon road racing pan and not sure of brand, high quality/expensive thick composit gasket. Pulled off transmission/torque converter cover and took an endoscope up in there to verify it was not the cam or lifter journal plugs leaking. Block looked dry up there. Then I noticed no oil on inside of inspection cover and did not notice any oil on block above oil pan. Now I'm thinking not the rear main but oil pan. Question, can I retorque the pan and possibly stop the leak if that's where it's coming from or will I end up pulling the pan and redoing it if that's where it's coming from? It is lightly damp around entire pan and heavy wet at rear. Thanks.
Dunno, maybe oil pressure sensor at the back of the engine? Just a suggestion. Not claiming to be an expert although I play one on tv.
 
Hey, hold on a second. I'm betting the oil pan bolts aren't holding the pan down snug, but "maybe" some of the bolts are bottomed out so they can't tighten all the way??? If you start to snug one up and it already feels tight, then maybe it just needs a washer on the bolt. I chased an oil pan leak, just along the seam like you describe, then 4 washers fixed the leak. I'd even changed the rear main seal....twice....before I realized I just had 4 bolts bottoming out.
 
Many times it can be coming from were the timing cover corners meet the pan.
The oil will wick it's way down the pan rails. Fan , road wind , and just the tilt of the engine will speed it along.
 
If they say torque it to 15 lbs and you tightened it to 12 it was really loose and still loose.
 
The trick with oil pan bolts I've found is, use NO grade 8 or ARP stuff.. Regular old grade 5 bolts stretch just enough to stay put under the low-torque required to not deform the pan. OEMs from something in the junkyard work great. I personally use serrated flange-head bolts as I'm not concerned with originality.
And PurpleBeeper makes a great point, make darn sure the bolts aren't too long...especially the two at the rear seal retainer..those very often will only take a 1/2" long bolt, and that's with a windage tray...cutting them down is sometimes necessary.
 
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