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Cheap vs expensive positive battery cables

hunt2elk

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Thought I would share this info for anybody interested in such things. I had a no start issue last fall on my 69 Bee. After wiggling the positive cable on both ends, it started normal. This was one of those $40 cables sold most everywhere. Really not sure why I bought it in the first place, but ordered one of the better $130 versions to take its place. Interesting that the cheap cable showed 1.3 ohms and the better one measure .3 ohms. Not a lot, but would change the voltage drop when in use.

20210401_080256.jpg 20210401_080416.jpg
 
When you begin with only 12. x volts, any resistance can and will be a problem..
 
I've seen the price difference in these cables before, but just figured it was a matter of: one is more "authentic" Mopar, and one is universal. But I guess there is a functional distinction. Thanks for the info!
 
I've wired motorcycles n boats many times. Both are exposed to the elements, especially the boats on the water. I've always paid the extra for "OFC" Oxygen Free Copper and "tinned" copper. Fights corrosion and much less resistance. Never use copper "clad" aluminum.
 
Great post and 100% correct.

On my GTX during the first few starts of its life the cranks were slow and the pos cable was melting. Grabbed it and gave it a wiggle and the wire popped right out of the connector. Cheap repop junk. Used a brass connector and soldered the pos wires in. 100% better.
 
I usually just make my own cables to avoid issues... I have seen the prices of re-pop cables and I was genuinely shocked... I decided to just make my own and it cost me significantly less
 
That's good to know. I nearly choked when I paid for the expensive ones, but the proof is in the pudding. Thanks for the heads up.
 
I installed a cheap reproduction and as soon as I turned the key, the positive cable melted where it goes in the terminal. When I read up on it, it says it's not for use with mini starters. That wouldn't give me a warm feeling even if I didn't have a mini starter.

From now on, I'll make my own. I don't really need it to look original.
 
Cable diameter is not what it use to be. Go to a truck shop next time. No amount of connector will do the job with undersized wire.
 
Thought I would share this info for anybody interested in such things. I had a no start issue last fall on my 69 Bee. After wiggling the positive cable on both ends, it started normal. This was one of those $40 cables sold most everywhere. Really not sure why I bought it in the first place, but ordered one of the better $130 versions to take its place. Interesting that the cheap cable showed 1.3 ohms and the better one measure .3 ohms. Not a lot, but would change the voltage drop when in use.

View attachment 1092423 View attachment 1092424
The Re-pop wires look to be similar on the "outside" and I've had to cut the ends off them and found that they use more insulation than the copper wire itself...some as much as half.
 
Keep in mind.
at one time there were no less than 3 maybe 4 manufacturers of CORRECT battery cables.
I used to carry the Quiry cabels and never had a complaint.
the other one I know of making them and are told to me as the best is M+H Electric
 
The Re-pop wires look to be similar on the "outside" and I've had to cut the ends off them and found that they use more insulation than the copper wire itself...some as much as half.

The more insulation than wire is a huge issue, especially with wire from china. Buy 12ga wire and the outer diameter is 12ga with 14-16ga actual strands.
 
M&H Electric is my go to place for battery cables...I've never been disappointed with their products & service,high quality,looks right,reliable performance.JMO!
 
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