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2857241 turn signal switch superseded numbers?

This morning I stopped at the local Chrysler dealership to get some numbers. The 2857241 was active up till 1992 if I remember correctly. Then there were a few superseded part numbers with the latest being 2947801 which was produced until 2008. I found one of those on eBay and bought it, about $100. less than the 2857241's. I'll post up what it is like when I get it. The one on Rock Auto is the Shee-mar that everybody is complaining about not lasting. I bought one from SlantSixDan (made in Argentina) because he says it is way better than the Shee-mar. I had used one of those only Bee, but must have forgot that it isn't the best either. The 2 brown wires as well as the 2 green wires are the same shade color and the switch is made totally different, so a guy can't compare the wires to the original. Also the one from Dan as well as the Shee-mar does not have the lane change feature that was standard on 1968 and newer vehicles.
*2857242 actually (see my post #4 above), but close enough.
2947801 is also correct per the list I posted....but now I'm wondering about the rest of the list,
given what you were told at the dealer??
Yes, the repop that's been out there these last several years is "half weight" garbage and I won't buy one,
but I need one for Fred (his right side cancelling tab is gone), so the search continues.
Perhaps @dadsbee can fire up his company to make us some? :)
 
*2857242 actually (see my post #4 above), but close enough.
2947801 is also correct per the list I posted....but now I'm wondering about the rest of the list,
given what you were told at the dealer??
Yes, the repop that's been out there these last several years is "half weight" garbage and I won't buy one,
but I need one for Fred (his right side cancelling tab is gone), so the search continues.
Perhaps @dadsbee can fire up his company to make us some? :)
I didn't ask them what the superseded #'s were between the original 2857241 and the latest 2947801 version, but probably the other ones you posted above are between there somewhere.
 
The 801 won't have a ribbon cable like the 241.. but in the grand scheme of things, who really cares. I saw that one on Ebay and was gonna send you the link and then our power went out this morning.

As for Ed's suggestion, not a hope in hell I'm going back into the plastics plant that I walked out of 16 years ago... well unless you pay for the tooling.. LOL
 
The 801 won't have a ribbon cable like the 241.. but in the grand scheme of things, who really cares. I saw that one on Ebay and was gonna send you the link and then our power went out this morning.

As for Ed's suggestion, not a hope in hell I'm going back into the plastics plant that I walked out of 16 years ago... well unless you pay for the tooling.. LOL
:lol:
Applying my Google-Fu skills real quick, I see that the "repair kit" for these switches fits about every dang
American car known to man for about a decade back then, but I don't want a repair kit for just the turn signals...
Am I correct in assuming the complete switch assembly has like 7 wires and includes the roller wheel contact
for the horn as well?
 
I bought the NOS repair kit for my Bee for about 10 bucks from AMS obsolete, as mine had a broken cancel ear. The solid steel "bridging" wires flipped out from under the retainer rivets after the 6th actuation...

..and yes what Joel is looking at (and the picture I showed last page) is the full assembly.
 
I bought the NOS repair kit for my Bee for about 10 bucks from AMS obsolete, as mine had a broken cancel ear. The solid steel "bridging" wires flipped out from under the retainer rivets after the 6th actuation...

..and yes what Joel is looking at (and the picture I showed last page) is the full assembly.
Good because mine is giving me quite the shock when I hit the horn and my elbow is resting on the windowsill. :)
 
The 801 won't have a ribbon cable like the 241.. but in the grand scheme of things, who really cares. I saw that one on Ebay and was gonna send you the link and then our power went out this morning.

I figure to just unwrap the tape so the wires will lay flat under the shield if the round bundle interferes.
 
487643F1-1A0B-4B7F-A1B6-119A620F5FF1.png
Replaced mine a little over a year ago, works fine and the wires were the right colors
 
if you mean holding it just far enough to flash without locking the hook ya but I don't think that's what you mean, that's what I usually do
 
This is the AMS Obsolete part right? While it has what appears to be a Chrysler-related logo on the packaging it’s not an OEM piece in my opinion.

In my earlier post about the C-body switch, my suggestion is to harvest only that portion from the NOS switch. The one I bought is 100 percent the same as my original.

ABAC7084-CF1F-44C9-8F15-4809FE010F8B.jpeg
 
Here’s the c-body switch being disassembled.

12B02622-F6B0-4267-9148-5A535A6B0F37.jpeg 89F8C12E-CE2D-4860-B269-AFC47A93EAA6.jpeg F8BDE89F-0E2A-426C-A71F-14FF3C84A48A.jpeg FC69478E-1F61-4448-B626-AF9004F6A885.jpeg
 
This is the AMS Obsolete part right? While it has what appears to be a Chrysler-related logo on the packaging it’s not an OEM piece in my opinion.

In my earlier post about the C-body switch, my suggestion is to harvest only that portion from the NOS switch. The one I bought is 100 percent the same as my original.

View attachment 1097207
Yes that is the one that fell apart after 6 actuations. It is also the part that is broken on most OE switches and why we need to replace them...
 
if you mean holding it just far enough to flash without locking the hook ya but I don't think that's what you mean, that's what I usually do
Yes, that is what I am referring to. Good to know.
 
Was a valid # up until '82 at least..
View attachment 1096905
Just saw this. Switch part numbers, sure some have been posted previously.
Dad’s bee is spot on. If you don’t have extreme heat, plastic stuff lasts for a long time. Three of the Chargers have originally t/s switches.
Going through some of my stuff. The following will all work.
2857241-242
2771802
 
Just saw this. Switch part numbers, sure some have been posted previously.
Dad’s bee is spot on. If you don’t have extreme heat, plastic stuff lasts for a long time. Three of the Chargers have originally t/s switches.
Going through some of my stuff. The following will all work.
2857241-242

2771802
2906520
2947801-802
 
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