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Cold Case radiator… Am I missing something?

By the way...that gap at the top between the support and radiator is pretty normal when compared to the factory setup.

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Hey everyone, I just wanted to give you an update on what I have worked out with cold case. I appreciate everyone’s feedback. I know there’s a lot of us who were frustrated and Have had less than great experiences. My ultimate hope is they will make corrections and fix these issues. It is a beautiful radiator if it just fit correctly. Ken got back to me and after giving him a couple measurements he clarified I need at least six and three-quarter inches from the radiator support to the front of the bolts on the fan pulley in order for an electric fan to work. I asked him to send me a shipping label for the complete order so that I can send it back. He had absolutely no problem with providing that.
I think at this point I will look into the cost of having my stock radiator flushed and fixed as well as looking at other options.
 
Thank you for the pictures. Your stock radiator sits much higher than the one from Cold Case did.
Oh that isn't mine, sorry...I should have noted that. Who knows if that guy even has it mounted in the proper holes lol! But the top gap is due to the mounting bolt areas of the support being raised a bit. I know that wasn't your biggest problem but since there was some discussion about it, I figured I'd post those up..
 
View attachment 1081644 View attachment 1081642 Just got this beautiful new radiator from cold case. I ordered an electric fan because I wanted to do away with the engine fan. Coordinated with them about which set up to use. actually through this site. Radiator is beautiful. looks great! however I go to put the fan shroud on with the electric fan and there is no way it is going to fit and not be jammed up against the water pump pulley. Am I missing something?
Have you got enough wiggle room to
possibly try a get the top mounting
tabs of the radiator to the forward side of the radiator support? Then bolt it down
from the front with spacers to get the
gap you need. Just an idea....
 
Thank you for the pictures. Your stock radiator sits much higher than the one from Cold Case did.

I have been looking at some radiator pictures of both stock & aftermarket ones. I have noticed and also give you notice that with the CC radiator you have, the filler neck sits what looks like 2-3" higher than all the stock necks I've seen. With that being said, maybe that why yours sits lower???? Just observations, your closer so you have a better advantage of seeing that. I hope CC reads this and takes notes and makes improvements?? Good Luck
 
Have you got enough wiggle room to
possibly try a get the top mounting
tabs of the radiator to the forward side of the radiator support? Then bolt it down
from the front with spacers to get the
gap you need. Just an idea....
I did look at that. I could not get the edges of the radiator brackets to fit through in order to do that. I tried multiple ways.
 
What is the electric fan they have supplied? Will it be up to the job. Air flow at idle is equally as important as the radiator. I presume all the messing about is to give you more room for fan clearance. Some electric set ups work, some don't. Some need more cooling than others due to the way they use their car - sit in a que going 2-3 MPH for and hour on a 90 degree + day and that will tell you if your electric fan is up to the job. Personally I would be using the largest stainless blade flex fan and shroud that will fit along with a high output pusher electric on the front and not worrying about engine to radiator spacing.
 
It's funny that the C body crowd doesn't have the problems & complaints that the B body folks do. I haven't searched if the A body's are having problems or not?? I wonder what's up with that?
1. Most C-body radiators are 26" We don't have fitment problems with 26" kits.
2. The C-body membership was very helpful in supplying samples and information to help us fine tune the C-body product line.
I think you'll find a very similar situation on the A-body forums as far as help goes.
 
Speaking of room between the radiator and pulley, hey @BAFRAID if you don't mind what is the measurement in there from the radiator, to the face of the water pump pulley?
I apologize. I said I would get back to you with that measurement. I actually packaged up the whole thing. Sending it back. I know I have 6 inches from the face of my support to the front surface of the water pump bolt. I spoke to another radiator manufacturer. They were extremely confident and had very detailed and specific information for my application. I was able to order one of their set ups with electric fans. Once I get the whole thing here and assembled I will post pictures.
 
1. Most C-body radiators are 26" We don't have fitment problems with 26" kits.
2. The C-body membership was very helpful in supplying samples and information to help us fine tune the C-body product line.
I think you'll find a very similar situation on the A-body forums as far as help goes.

1. So what about 22" in C bodies, what problems are they having?
2. What kind of positive reaction and help have you gotten from the B crowd for product development as compared to the C crowd?
3. I really don't care about the A body crowd.
So then WHY does/is the B body crowd having so many issues & problem with your rads then????
 
So then WHY does/is the B body crowd having so many issues & problem with your rads then????

It's two people and they are both 22". Hundreds of B-body mopar radiators are successfully installed.
The other quesitons are kind of off topic for the topic starter. If you want to start another topic, I'll answer there.
 
I have a 426 Max Wedge in a 63 Sport Fury. I added a March Pulley Setup plus a Griffin Radiator. I had to cut the flanges off of the sides of the Radiator and move it forward right against the Radiator support. It fits now but very tight
 
I bought a Cold Case for my 68 GTX. The first problem was the core on the CC is twice a thick as the original so the fan was only about 1/8" from the core. I found a heavy duty fan clutch, $90, that moved the fan back just enough to make the radiator usable. Only '1' of the mounting holes in the CC radiator was right, so I drilled the other holes so I could mount it. When I went to mount the shroud, again '1' of the shroud mount holes fit. I had to make a bracket on the passenger side to mount the shroud too. I called CC and was assured the radiator was the right one and I had already drilled the holes so I could mount it so it couldn't be returned. Then, after all the mess, work and extra expense of the new clutch, I had already bought a new one trying to get the old radiator to cool the motor, I find I had accomplished nothing as it still runs hot. I guess my next step is a new water pump since I have changed out 'everything' else.
 
I bought a Cold Case for my 68 GTX. The first problem was the core on the CC is twice a thick as the original so the fan was only about 1/8" from the core. I found a heavy duty fan clutch, $90, that moved the fan back just enough to make the radiator usable. Only '1' of the mounting holes in the CC radiator was right, so I drilled the other holes so I could mount it. When I went to mount the shroud, again '1' of the shroud mount holes fit. I had to make a bracket on the passenger side to mount the shroud too. I called CC and was assured the radiator was the right one and I had already drilled the holes so I could mount it so it couldn't be returned. Then, after all the mess, work and extra expense of the new clutch, I had already bought a new one trying to get the old radiator to cool the motor, I find I had accomplished nothing as it still runs hot. I guess my next step is a new water pump since I have changed out 'everything' else.
Sorry to hear about your problems as well. I ended up going with a recommendation that another member here used. I went with a wizard radiator with 4 9 inch fan cooling set up versus one large fan in the center. It also uses a bracket to hold the fans versus a shroud as they already cover 95% of the radiator. It’s only 5 inches thick in total so will leave me about an inch and a quarter of space between the fans and the pulley.
 
Well I'm glad that I came across this thread. Normally I only buy stock replacement parts but you just can't get a factory style 22" radiator in anything close to an OE tube size without spending $1,000. Standard cooling had 9/16" tubes, while max cool came with 5/8" - just about every jobber rad on the market right now comes with an aluminum core and tubes that are smaller than 1/2". No wonder you can't get a 22" rad to cool these days.

I saw a thread discussing Cold Case rads, including someone who said their stock shroud bolted right up. I was searching to see if anyone of FBBO had similar luck and landed here. Needless to say, I'll keep looking. #FixTheJig
 
Well I'm glad that I came across this thread. Normally I only buy stock replacement parts but you just can't get a factory style 22" radiator in anything close to an OE tube size without spending $1,000. Standard cooling had 9/16" tubes, while max cool came with 5/8" - just about every jobber rad on the market right now comes with an aluminum core and tubes that are smaller than 1/2". No wonder you can't get a 22" rad to cool these days.

I saw a thread discussing Cold Case rads, including someone who said their stock shroud bolted right up. I was searching to see if anyone of FBBO had similar luck and landed here. Needless to say, I'll keep looking. #FixTheJig
 
Well I'm glad that I came across this thread. Normally I only buy stock replacement parts but you just can't get a factory style 22" radiator in anything close to an OE tube size without spending $1,000. Standard cooling had 9/16" tubes, while max cool came with 5/8" - just about every jobber rad on the market right now comes with an aluminum core and tubes that are smaller than 1/2". No wonder you can't get a 22" rad to cool these days.

I saw a thread discussing Cold Case rads, including someone who said their stock shroud bolted right up. I was searching to see if anyone of FBBO had similar luck and landed here. Needless to say, I'll keep looking. #FixTheJig
Try Wizard radiators. They were great
 
Well I'm glad that I came across this thread. Normally I only buy stock replacement parts but you just can't get a factory style 22" radiator in anything close to an OE tube size without spending $1,000. Standard cooling had 9/16" tubes, while max cool came with 5/8" - just about every jobber rad on the market right now comes with an aluminum core and tubes that are smaller than 1/2". No wonder you can't get a 22" rad to cool these days.

I saw a thread discussing Cold Case rads, including someone who said their stock shroud bolted right up. I was searching to see if anyone of FBBO had similar luck and landed here. Needless to say, I'll keep looking. #FixTheJig

I have a 26” ColdCase radiator and am ordering a OER/MP shroud.

https://www.jegs.com/i/OER/691/2998...j_bTIyTmAyWTQOLgtX9q-jtgXCboUB5waAoibEALw_wcB

Will update if it is plug and play.

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