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My First build

even with edm lifters
requires a pro level build
correct geometry
very stiff pushrods
etc
 
Thanks for the input, it all gets me closer to understanding it all. I certainly am not married to this cam. I still need to finish short block. In the mean time I will do more research. Definitely not a PRO level build!!
 
you can do a pro level build
just research and attention yo details
which you need to do anyway
you know
actually degree the cam
get thright pushrods and all parts
this forum will walk you through it
 
Thanks for the confidence!! I have the crank installed and everything went really good. Going to file fit rings this week and hopefully install pistons. Checked all rod bearing clearance and everything looks good. Taking one step at a time and checking everything.
 
So I have the rotating assembly installed and everything went really well.
I have a couple of questions about lifters
1. Why are there different seat heights among the different manufactures. Will this only affect pushrod length.
2. Is it worth it to go with a light weight version 78 grams vs 101 grams for the standard?
 
Lifters are in, all rise and fall under there own weight and rotate properly when cam is turned. So all good there. Teaching myself to degree the cam, seemed intimidating at first. Following the instructions provided by Hughes, I now have a good understanding of what to do. Is it common practice to only check cam on cylinder 1 or do all lobes need to be verified?
Is a cam button required with mechanical lifters?
Thanks in advance

IMG_0170.JPG IMG_0171.JPG
 
Just doing #1 should be fine. We don't run any buttons on our solids. We install our cams advanced 2 degrees for allowing for chain tension. So if the cam calls to be run on 109 we install on 107...a bit old school from the old mopar performance book...seems like some don't do it any more, but still makes sense to us....it does depend on how the cam is ground and where you want it to "run" vs "installed". Splitting hairs probably.
Looking good:thumbsup:
 
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Lifters are in, all rise and fall under there own weight and rotate properly when cam is turned. So all good there. Teaching myself to degree the cam, seemed intimidating at first. Following the instructions provided by Hughes, I now have a good understanding of what to do. Is it common practice to only check cam on cylinder 1 or do all lobes need to be verified?
Is a cam button required with mechanical lifters?
Thanks in advance

View attachment 963779 View attachment 963781

Agree with what Curiousyellow71 said. Depending on the timing chain, and use, will determine if the cam is advanced or not. The important thing is having the data of where it is currently installed. Later, if there is problems, or you want to change the torque curve you already know where the cam is installed at.
 
Thanks guys!! Getting close to ordering heads and intake. You all might get a kick out of one of my screw ups! In Hughes instructions for verifying the cam he suggests to weld 3 old lifters together for easier measuring. I think that sounds like a great idea so I get out 3 old lifters and proceed to tack them together. When I'm done it looks and works great, but then I turn around and look at the work bench and there sits one of the OLD lifters!! Yep you guessed it somehow I grabbed one of my new lifters and weld it to the old ones. Duh.
 
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I would like to do an update on my build. The motor is in the car and running great, I could not be happier. It is still amazing to me that a guy with very little experience can utilize the massive amount of information on this site to build an engine. Also to the individuals on the site that helped via private messaging ( you know who you are) I can't thank you enough.
As you may know from reading the thread I chose to work with Hughes Engines on this build. They performed all machining and provided the bulk of the parts. My experience with Hughes was really good. By not sourcing parts from multiple vendors I was able to easily work thru any issues buy calling Hughes. The only complaint that I could voice about Hughes is that it took 4 months to get the block back. The other hiccup was with the machining, when I set the crank in the block one of the areas that needs to be clearanced was not clearanced enough and the crank would not rotate. This kinda spooked me and made me wonder about how the rest of the machining would be.
The rest of the assembly went perfect, all clearances where on the money (I measured everything). With all the machine shop horror stories I had some serious anxiety. I would without question go back to Dave for my next build. If your sensitive or get hurt feelings easily Dave can be intimidating. If you don't want his opinion don't ask him. The only place that I deviated from Daves advice was on valve train setup. I just couldn't get where I wanted to be with his procedure. I was probably overthinking it. Per advice from a member here I went to B3 racing for a geometry correction kit. Mike at B3 was great and everything went together nicely.
Once I decided on a build "formula" I stuck with it, including the appropriate torque converter and rear gear. I originally started this thread to document and get feedback on my build. I discovered that I was to lazy to document and any question I had was already answered somewhere on the site. If your thinking about building your first engine the info is available. Without fail you can do a search on this site for anything you need!
The pics document the vast majority of the build. I'm certainly not qualified to answer many questions but I can try to help if needed.
 
Nicely done and thanks for posting the info. So at what point did you decide to go with a flat tappet cam?
 
Wow nice build! Congrats. Should be in the 575-600HP neighborhood..
Very similar SFT cam to my own except mine is an .875 lifter grind (go easy on me Wyrmrider--wherever you are buddy...) so the lobe lift is a tad less for about the same duration.

What are you running for induction?
(Great car by the way!)
 
I decided to go flat tappet after talking with Hughs and doing some research on what they told me. I also consulted a couple members on this site. Just so much debate on hydraulic lifters, the solids just simplified it for me.
As far as induction, I went with an RPM Performer and I am using the MSD Atomic throttle body that was already on the car.
 
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