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Less Common Radiator Options

Buckeye440

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'68 Sport Satellite/Road Runner clone, 440/6, 727. The radiator that came in this car when I purchased it, from what I've researched, is not the most common setup. By that I mean the radiator inlet is on the upper DRIVER side and the outlet is on the lower PASSENGER side. (see attached radiator photo for reference) Meaning, the current water pump inlet is also on the passenger side, so switching to the more common driver side radiator outlet is not much of an option at this point. It DOES also have trans cooler hookups for the 727. After having some cooling issues I took a peak under the cap and while the coolant wasn't muddy, it definitely was dirty, but even worse 90% of the tubes I could see were practically plugged up. So, I removed the radiator last fall and took it to a radiator shop to be hot tanked, rodded, repaired, etc. Unfortunately for me, the shop said after well over a month of having it, that the radiator couldn't be repaired because there was too much damage to the tanks. Just as much, it appeared that it had been repaired previously, albeit rather poorly. At less point I was already in the hole with them only to find out that my radiator is not repairable. Their efforts to sell me a new, factory correct looking radiator for close to $1,200 was quickly shot down by me even after telling them several times the look wasn't a major concern. Heck, I can put at least 2 or 3 new ones in for that price. I realize that the factory radiator would've been my best option, and I tried to keep it that way. However, my question is, now that I know that the factory one isn't going to work I have have to do a full replacement as opposed to a repair, what would be my beat option? The car is obviously not original so please keep in mind I'm more concerned with function over form. Just as much, I would ideally like to add a fan shroud as it got hot rather quickly when sitting idle. For the record too, it has a 7-blade clutchless fan. Any and all help would be appreciated!

20201103_073838.jpg
 
'68 Sport Satellite/Road Runner clone, 440/6, 727. The radiator that came in this car when I purchased it, from what I've researched, is not the most common setup. By that I mean the radiator inlet is on the upper DRIVER side and the outlet is on the lower PASSENGER side. (see attached radiator photo for reference) Meaning, the current water pump inlet is also on the passenger side, so switching to the more common driver side radiator outlet is not much of an option at this point. It DOES also have trans cooler hookups for the 727. After having some cooling issues I took a peak under the cap and while the coolant wasn't muddy, it definitely was dirty, but even worse 90% of the tubes I could see were practically plugged up. So, I removed the radiator last fall and took it to a radiator shop to be hot tanked, rodded, repaired, etc. Unfortunately for me, the shop said after well over a month of having it, that the radiator couldn't be repaired because there was too much damage to the tanks. Just as much, it appeared that it had been repaired previously, albeit rather poorly. At less point I was already in the hole with them only to find out that my radiator is not repairable. Their efforts to sell me a new, factory correct looking radiator for close to $1,200 was quickly shot down by me even after telling them several times the look wasn't a major concern. Heck, I can put at least 2 or 3 new ones in for that price. I realize that the factory radiator would've been my best option, and I tried to keep it that way. However, my question is, now that I know that the factory one isn't going to work I have have to do a full replacement as opposed to a repair, what would be my beat option? The car is obviously not original so please keep in mind I'm more concerned with function over form. Just as much, I would ideally like to add a fan shroud as it got hot rather quickly when sitting idle. For the record too, it has a 7-blade clutchless fan. Any and all help would be appreciated!

View attachment 1099570
Try to get a clutch type fan (it will free up quite a bit of horse power), shroud, and a radiator to clear the fan and cool properly. There are many out there for sale. Good luck.
Mike
 
You "could" replace the water pump housing with a driver-side inlet. Call an aftermarket place like Wizard or the sponsor here, to get the configuration you have. The Wizard I currently have fits the factory shroud, just had to use a shorter Hayden clutch. I would've replaced my previously impaled radiator with the factory style, but yeah, cost for a non-original was the factor.
 
Because that radiator didn't belong in their originally, you are going to have to make sure you match that radiator with the shroud that matches it. If you try and put a C body shroud on the radiator, it's likely not going to fit.

CC has a radiator that matches the one pictured. PM sent.
 
You "could" replace the water pump housing with a driver-side inlet. Call an aftermarket place like Wizard or the sponsor here, to get the configuration you have. The Wizard I currently have fits the factory shroud, just had to use a shorter Hayden clutch. I would've replaced my previously impaled radiator with the factory style, but yeah, cost for a non-original was the factor.
My only issue would be trying to get the correct shroud to fit correctly between the new radiator and the fan itself. Is there a "standard" spacing between all of these or would it vary between vehicles with the same engine/radiator/shroud setup from factory?

Because that radiator didn't belong in their originally, you are going to have to make sure you match that radiator with the shroud that matches it. If you try and put a C body shroud on the radiator, it's likely not going to fit.

CC has a radiator that matches the one pictured. PM sent.
Yes, this is part of my concern, finding the correct engine/fan/radiator/shroud setup and spaced/measured correctly so they all line up and don't destroy each other. Also, I was told by someone that this radiator came from a late 70s Volare possibly, and the engine is from a motorhome if roughly the same years. As I asked above, was there a common measurement spacing-wise between all 440s fans and their shrouds/radiators? Yes I realize there are different body styles but am I able to find any big block B-Body shroud and have it fit properly?
 
Cordoba Radiator.jpg
My rad is the same configuration as yours. Bought a Champion rad for around $200 (I have a dyno tested 440 500hp and no cooling issues). You'll need to find a late model shroud like that came on my Cordoba. Alternative is to get a aftermarket aluminum shroud. You can get a slim clutch for the fan if space is a concern but I don't think you'll have any issues. Its like a puzzle.

https://shop.championcooling.com/Pe...969-1970-1971-1972-1973-Dodge-Charger-SKU-374
 
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My only issue would be trying to get the correct shroud to fit correctly between the new radiator and the fan itself. Is there a "standard" spacing between all of these or would it vary between vehicles with the same engine/radiator/shroud setup from factory?

Your's looks like a 26" unit core width. If yes, our MOP750A is the direct fit replacement and #2785435 is the shroud you want to get.
 
Yeah, an expensive puzzle with mismatched and missing pieces haha

Your's looks like a 26" unit core width. If yes, our MOP750A is the direct fit replacement and #2785435 is the shroud you want to get.
That is correct, it's a 26" core. Would the #2785435 shroud be available through Cold Case and other aftermarket companies, or would I have to find an old factory piece?
 
Yeah, an expensive puzzle with mismatched and missing pieces haha


That is correct, it's a 26" core. Would the #2785435 shroud be available through Cold Case and other aftermarket companies, or would I have to find an old factory piece?
That shroud is available in reproduction. Any of the Mopar catalog dealers would have it. Classic Industries, Year One, etc.
 
Your's looks like a 26" unit core width. If yes, our MOP750A is the direct fit replacement and #2785435 is the shroud you want to get.
What is the inlet/outlet ? Read his initial post. And, will he need a shorter Hayden clutch with your radiator ?
 
What is the inlet/outlet ? Read his initial post. And, will he need a shorter Hayden clutch with your radiator ?
I do a lot of speed reading on these forums! Anyway, I didn't see anywhere where he stated the width of the radiator pictured. Also, to be extra safe, we're communicating the details via PM's and our staff since just dealing with me could get you all in a lot of trouble. lol!

As far as the clutch is concerned, he'll be doing some measuring to see what his options are. I'm sure he will post in this topic with the final combination.
 
I do a lot of speed reading on these forums! Anyway, I didn't see anywhere where he stated the width of the radiator pictured. Also, to be extra safe, we're communicating the details via PM's and our staff since just dealing with me could get you all in a lot of trouble. lol!

As far as the clutch is concerned, he'll be doing some measuring to see what his options are. I'm sure he will post in this topic with the final combination.
His issue is the inlet/outlet sides.
 
Below are pictures for referencing the overall style as well as the specific mounting areas, hose/fitting areas/styles, etc.

20210512_173204.jpg
20210512_173046.jpg
20210512_173106.jpg
 
Below are pictures for referencing the overall style as well as the specific mounting areas, hose/fitting areas/styles, etc.

View attachment 1109809 View attachment 1109810 View attachment 1109811
That sure looks like our MOP750A except we don't have that top LH tank plug in ours. I wonder when that was used?

66-74 A,B,C, E Body 17x26 Auto Aluminum Performance Radiator | Cold Case Aluminum Performance Radiators (coldcaseradiators.com)
I can't promise the top mounting holes are going to line up perfect. If you look closely at the side mounting brackets, they are slightly different. We merged several part numbers to make this particular model of ours to keep costs down for us and for the customer. The shroud will mount although not like the original did. You'll have to drill 2 or 4 holes in the radiator brackets for a clean fit.
 
That sure looks like our MOP750A except we don't have that top LH tank plug in ours. I wonder when that was used?
That is a great question!

I can't promise the top mounting holes are going to line up perfect. If you look closely at the side mounting brackets, they are slightly different... The shroud will mount although not like the original did. You'll have to drill 2 or 4 holes in the radiator brackets for a clean fit.
As far as the mounting of the radiator to the core support I do have SOME wiggle room so I'm hoping that won't be an issue. But what do you mean that the shroud WILL mount but not like original?
 
But what do you mean that the shroud WILL mount but not like original?
The original shrouds had these very unique clips that were used. For our radiator, you just use regular sheet metal or nuts and bolts.
 
The original shrouds had these very unique clips that were used. For our radiator, you just use regular sheet metal or nuts and bolts.
Ah ok, that doesn't sound like too big of a deal, just a matter of preference at this point. Being that my car is far from original, I don't see any issue.
 
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