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Lighting - more electrical problems

PlyGTXSat

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Hi again guys -

So now i’m having issues with my lights. Specifically, i have no dash or rear lights. I’ve checked my fuses and they all seem good. Still have headlights. Voltage from the dimmer switch is good.
 
Ground wire issues are the most likely. For the tail lights, see if you have 12V back at the tail light sockets. For dash lights, see if you have 12V to the dash light circuit. It's a process of elimination moving upstream or downstream with either circuit
 
LOL! I once dropped into a shop where a couple kids I knew worked. They were troubleshooting a light problem on a caddy and were stumped why everything checked out but they still had no lights. I asked if they'd changed the bulbs and they both fell silent for a good two minutes then went and got new bulbs. Problems solved.
 
Ground wire issues are the most likely. For the tail lights, see if you have 12V back at the tail light sockets. For dash lights, see if you have 12V to the dash light circuit. It's a process of elimination moving upstream or downstream with either circuit
I thought so but the hazards still work. And the turn signals. Wouldn’t grounds cause them to be completely inoperable?
 
tail lights are not getting a ground and check your dash dimmer for dash lights. do you have a power probe or test light light.
 
power probe a good tool to have. you can check grounds as well as power.
 
Check for dimmer voltage at the 5amp fuse in the fuse block, both sides.

Check the black wire in the 6-way main dash to rear body harnesses in the driver’s side kick panel for park light voltage.
 
If you don’t have one purchase a Power Probe.

The best latest and greatest tool you can put in your collection.
 
If you don’t have one purchase a Power Probe.

The best latest and greatest tool you can put in your collection.


Man that “The hook” tool they have is slick. Not sure I can justify $400, but man I’d love to.
 
Man that “The hook” tool they have is slick. Not sure I can justify $400, but man I’d love to.

You can get one for way less then $100 without all the do-dads. When you get one and learn to use it you will wonder how you ever got along without one.
 
I know this an old post, and I'm sure my problem is not unique. All new wiring, and every connection has dielectric grease, every ground i connected was to bare steel. I used a reproduction dash harness, engine harness, rear body harness etc. I did not splice anything, or patchwork anything together. No lights, no engine cranking, zip, nada, I am a little perplexed where to start.
 
When I was rewiring my 70 Charger dash, I had absolutely ZERO power anywhere....unless I had the ammeter hooked up.

Check all connections.

If nothing else, start at the battery...and follow wires. See where the power quits.
 
Dash and marker lights are different outputs from the light switch. Dash lights are on the dimmer of light switch.
I would check the light switch connector is plugged in correctly then if still problems, check the power outputs on the light switch. Might be the light switch is bad.
 
actually on 68/70 the cluster lights output ( from lights switch to the dimmer wheel ) is shared with rear parking lights output circuit. Its on 71 and lates when the dimmer gets its own output being an intergrated dimmer wheel into the light switch but STILL the fuse from the parking lights circuit is shared to the dimmer wheel input, then the dimmer output reachs another fuse.
 
My marker light don't dim with my dash light on the '69 Coronet?
 
I didn't say the markers source goes throught the dimmer wheel, but the input to the dimmer wheel is the same for parkings at the switch... if you blow the 20 amps parking lights fuse will loose the dimmer wheel light too. The output to the parkings goes straight to parkings of course, but the dimmer gets spliced that power ( inside the switch in 71/74 ) to feed another network going throught the dimmer wheel which runs to an extra fuse on fuse box, 3 amps as far I recall. So you could get a short on cluster light able to blow the 3 amps fuse and loose the dimmer lights but not the 20 amps fuse for the parking lights and some other devices.

On 68/70s is something similar, just that the dimmer wheel being divorced from the light switch gets its power from the rear parking lights prong at light switch.
 
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