Getting closer to assembly

Mixed-up XP · Apr 22, 2021

Here's the 440 I'm using for my Charger. This is a 7-2-73 casting with the ID boss stamped with J440 HP and below that is 7 12 2. Not sure what it came out of but the original rods were heavy duty and looked like 6 pack rods. It has 440-6 on the casting but don't know if this may have been a surplus that never got used in a 6 pack car. Been bored 30 over, balanced steel crank with Eagle rods and forged Wiseco pistons. Will be running 915 heads and plan on using a solid lift cam...just need to decide which cam will work for my needs.

440Coronet500 · Apr 22, 2021

Great start on a rotating assembly. Just remember the drivetrain, engine cam, converter stall and rear gear work together as a system. 440'

Mixed-up XP · Apr 22, 2021

I'll be running a 727 w/2500 stall to the rear wheels via 3:55 sure-grip, Auburn cone (NO SYNTHETIC FOR CONES) and 28" tall tires. That much I have decided and figured out. I would like to do a dual quad Edel intake w/2 Carters. The fun part now is the cam. I am looking for low to mid-range power as I don't plan on taking this to the strip. Basically I want an asphalt thumping street machine. A good streetable mechanical flat tappet cam.

440Coronet500 · Apr 22, 2021

To run dual quads you'll have to do some homework for cam selection. Don't over cam it! The rest of your setup sounds good. 440'

zyzzyx · Apr 22, 2021

Don't over CFM the engine or it won't be polite driving around the hood! While dual quads
roll off the tongue nice, they are usually not dual purpose. Small CFM carbs with vacuum
secondaries come to mind. 2500 stall is stock.

Mixed-up XP · Apr 23, 2021

440Coronet500 said:
To run dual quads you'll have to do some homework for cam selection. Don't over cam it! The rest of your setup sounds good. 440'

Over-camming is exactly what I'm trying to avoid. I went to one of the cam sites and did the ask the expert...filled out the form with my set-up and their recommendation to me seemed over cammed. The results were .519/.531 int./exh. advert. duration of 294/298, 240/244 @ .050 lift. That seems a little much for my needs unless I'm just missing the big picture of the whole package as one unit. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Mixed-up XP · Apr 23, 2021

zyzzyx said:
Don't over CFM the engine or it won't be polite driving around the hood! While dual quads
roll off the tongue nice, they are usually not dual purpose. Small CFM carbs with vacuum
secondaries come to mind. 2500 stall is stock.

My plan is running 2 Carter 600's but that may change if necessary to even smaller ones. Are you sure about the 2500 being stock stall? I thought 1000-1200 was typical on factory converters. If it is 2500, do I need to entertain the thought of stepping up to 2800 or 3000?

747mopar · Apr 23, 2021

I'm running a 456 (400 based stroker) with this cam in it, I built the motor to be super street friendly yet have plenty of oomph, this cam worked beautifully. It has an advertised rpm range of 1,800-5,800 but it likes to be cranked up to 6,000. No complaints, has a health sounding idle and really pulls hard.

68Moparmaniac · Apr 23, 2021

Mixed-up XP said:
Over-camming is exactly what I'm trying to avoid. I went to one of the cam sites and did the ask the expert...filled out the form with my set-up and their recommendation to me seemed over cammed. The results were .519/.531 int./exh. advert. duration of 294/298, 240/244 @ .050 lift. That seems a little much for my needs unless I'm just missing the big picture of the whole package as one unit. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

What's the LSA on this cam?

Challenger340 · Apr 23, 2021

Blocks don't matter a hill 'o beans... they are ALL the same for purposes of this build.

IMO,
And sry to rain on the parade.... but you are NOT ready.... and you have insufficient information/data for patent Camshaft profile selection at this point..... given the intended application, ie:
* Auto/2500
* 28" Tire on 3.55's
* Dual Quad / Dual Plane
* Cast Iron heads

At this point you might as well turnaround and throw a dart at the Cam book ?
What's the actual Compression ratio ?
Fuel being used ?

You require:
* an actual Piston TDC Measurement/CC Volume installed in the Block, because WISECO Pistons are typically built generously DOWN from advertised at TDC ..... and it is Not uncommon to install WISECO's thinking they should be .010" or .020" down and find them closer to .030" or .040" down
Are they indeed WISECO's ? or Pro Tru Pistons made by wiseco ?

* an actual CC Volume on the 915 Iron Heads because those as well can be all over the map

* Head Gasket being used

* Valve Sizes being used in the 915's.... even better would be some Flow data ? but I get that ain't happening... no matter, even Valve Sizes will help.
From the above 3 things you can then begin targeting cylinder psi/efficiency in the high torque Cam profile application.

* Headers ? Manifolds ? WHAT ?

Look.... spending some time now can reap GREAT rewards later far beyond just throwing a Dart at a Cam page ?

Mixed-up XP · Apr 23, 2021

68Moparmaniac said:
What's the LSA on this cam?

112 degrees

Mixed-up XP · Apr 23, 2021

Challenger340 said:
Blocks don't matter a hill 'o beans... they are ALL the same for purposes of this build.

IMO,
And sry to rain on the parade.... but you are NOT ready.... and you have insufficient information/data for patent Camshaft profile selection at this point..... given the intended application, ie:
* Auto/2500
* 28" Tire on 3.55's
* Dual Quad / Dual Plane
* Cast Iron heads

At this point you might as well turnaround and throw a dart at the Cam book ?
What's the actual Compression ratio ?
Fuel being used ?

You require:
* an actual Piston TDC Measurement/CC Volume installed in the Block, because WISECO Pistons are typically built generously DOWN from advertised at TDC ..... and it is Not uncommon to install WISECO's thinking they should be .010" or .020" down and find them closer to .030" or .040" down
Are they indeed WISECO's ? or Pro Tru Pistons made by wiseco ?

* an actual CC Volume on the 915 Iron Heads because those as well can be all over the map

* Head Gasket being used

* Valve Sizes being used in the 915's.... even better would be some Flow data ? but I get that ain't happening... no matter, even Valve Sizes will help.
From the above 3 things you can then begin targeting cylinder psi/efficiency in the high torque Cam profile application.

* Headers ? Manifolds ? WHAT ?

Look.... spending some time now can reap GREAT rewards later far beyond just throwing a Dart at a Cam page ?

WOW, I did not realize I was building an Atomic Clock or putting a man on the moon. It's a cam choice, not a TIME MACHINE. Thanks for your input though. I guess I better get busy with my science project...looks like I have a long night of throwing darts at a cam book.

beanhead · Apr 23, 2021

Mixed-up XP said:
Here's the 440 I'm using for my Charger. This is a 7-2-73 casting with the ID boss stamped with J440 HP and below that is 7 12 2. Not sure what it came out of but the original rods were heavy duty and looked like 6 pack rods. It has 440-6 on the casting but don't know if this may have been a surplus that never got used in a 6 pack car. Been bored 30 over, balanced steel crank with Eagle rods and forged Wiseco pistons. Will be running 915 heads and plan on using a solid lift cam...just need to decide which cam will work for my needs.

View attachment 1101279 View attachment 1101280 View attachment 1101281

The '6' in the 440-6 is merely the tooling revision number, for example I have one marked 440-2 and another marked 440-3. 440 engines of those years were very widely used in trucks and RVs and many got the heavier '6-pack' rods and a forged crankshaft. With the 'HP' stamp it should have started life in something 'cool' but as Challenger340 pointed out all blocks were the same, the 'HP' meant it would have gotten the 'performance' version of any internal parts for that model year (camshaft etc).

And speaking of Challenger340...he's merely pointing out (based on his many years as a professional builder) that to get the "right" camshaft for a given build requires knowing all those fine details. Otherwise yeah just pick something close and maybe it'll be 'okay'...but maybe not. It's just that you can get into trouble with the wrong cam and wind up with an engine that detonates, has soggy low end, won't pull to the RPM it should, is a nightmare to tune, produces poor vacuum, stuff like that.

Challenger340 · Apr 24, 2021

Mixed-up XP said:
WOW, I did not realize I was building an Atomic Clock or putting a man on the moon. It's a cam choice, not a TIME MACHINE. Thanks for your input though. I guess I better get busy with my science project...looks like I have a long night of throwing darts at a cam book.

This is frigg'in hilarious....
Seems you are indeed not building an "atomic clock" or a TIME MACHINE....
but it would appear you are indeed bound and determined to build a complete piece of ****.... the entertainment value will be priceless.
Carry on !

Didn't you say you already filled out a Cam Rec Card at a Cam Company but you didn't like that Cam Rec ?

FYI with Cams ?
OUTPUT in Cam Reccommendations.... Can only be as good as... and is directly proportional to....
the IMPUT Information provided !

Garbage IN = GARBAGE OUT... simple as that.

for others....
the -6... -8 or -4 are indeed as stated just farum/tooling revision numbers as to how many individual cylinder casings have been replaced within the TWO 4-Cylinder casing halves that were used to cast that particular block.
Your Block is a -6.... meaning minus the "2" case halves used indicates that within your Block "4" individual Cylinder casings were replaced over time on those two halves utilized.
A -7 would be minus "2" indicated revised case halves used with "3" replaced
and so on
That's ALL the 'dash whatever' numbers after the cubic inch designation mean

RemCharger · Apr 24, 2021

The old mopar 528 solid was a great cam in that type of build. Not sure if they even make them or quality control anymore.
But like Challenger 340 said, GIGO. garbage in=garbage out.

Challenger340 · Apr 24, 2021

Mixed-up XP said:
Over-camming is exactly what I'm trying to avoid. I went to one of the cam sites and did the ask the expert...filled out the form with my set-up and their recommendation to me seemed over cammed. The results were .519/.531 int./exh. advert. duration of 294/298, 240/244 @ .050 lift. That seems a little much for my needs unless I'm just missing the big picture of the whole package as one unit. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

From above....
"unless I'm just missing the big picture of the whole package as one unit. Any advice is greatly appreciated."

Yeah... you are missing the bigger picture
and
NO.... seems you don't appreciate any advice
especially
if it could prevent you from missing that bigger picture ?

But again.... you CARRY ON because this is gonna be hilarious !

68Moparmaniac · Apr 26, 2021

Mixed-up XP said:
112 degrees

That's a good lobe separation for the street. Should give you good idle with some bump and your vacuum wont be so erratic as with a closer lobe separation.

Getting closer to assembly

Mixed-up XP

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440Coronet500

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Mixed-up XP

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440Coronet500

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zyzzyx

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Mixed-up XP

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Mixed-up XP

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Challenger340

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Mixed-up XP

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Mixed-up XP

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beanhead

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