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Electronic ignition upgrade recommendations

Purepony

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My 70 satellite with 383 still has points so looking to upgrade. What’s the easiest and what system is reliable.

any tips on installing are also appreciated since I’ve never done one

thanks
 
I have the HEI setup. Simple to install and works great. Car start at the touch of the key. Comparing it to MSD in my race car HEI is every bit or better the the MSD except for lack of over rev protection. IMHO
 
I like the standard Firecore distributor along with the FBO control box with rev limiter.
 
I have the HEI setup. Simple to install and works great. Car start at the touch of the key. Comparing it to MSD in my race car HEI is every bit or better the the MSD except for lack of over rev protection. IMHO

is there a part number ?
 
I like the standard Firecore distributor along with the FBO control box with rev limiter.
I can attest to the FBO control box that uses the factory wiring harness, provides multiple spark throughout the entire RPM range, and an excellent rev limiting function in its application. I have the distributor from FBO as well, set up by Don for my engine.
I'm switching to the Progression Ignition just because I think the Progression Ignition is the best ever, nothing close, for carburetor induction based engines.
 
Probably the simplest is a Pertronix unit.

Mopar Nats 11 007.JPG
 
For non-racing, I'd suggest the basic Direct Connection electronic ignition conversion. Basically, it's a '72-'76 (?) Chrysler factory ignition system
 
Really depends on what you want and price range. Mopar MP kit around 150, petronix, 120, GM 4 pin 50 or so with a mount. And penty of others also out there. Points are a proven system also.
 
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Probably the simplest is a Pertronix unit.
...and those modules are very nice. Our GTO had a Pertronix module in the factory distributor, but when I had the 421 rebuilt and upgraded, I got a Pertronix billet aluminum distributor with the Ignitor III module. Rev limiter was mandatory, so I can power shift on the occasion I may drive it, without worrying about a missed shift, and so I can have peace of mind my wife won't overrev that rebuilt engine...
I need to dig in to the fine tuning on that setup, as I know I'm leaving power on the table, and it's time to step up the GOAT'S game!
 
I'm very happy with my Pertronix III conversion. Rev limiter, easy to install, bypass ballast, looks factory.
 
Really depends on what you want and price range. Mopar MP kit around 150, petronix, 120, GM 4 pin 50 or so with a mount. And penty of others also out there. Points are a proven system also.
I just want one that’s reliable since I read horror stories about point conversions
I don’t want to be stranded at a crappy car show somewhere lol
 
You currently have it !
What am I going to do when the points go bad and I have to buy auto zone replacement brand ? Will they hold up ? Will o still have to check the car every 8k miles ?
That’s what I’m trying to improve
 
What am I going to do when the points go bad and I have to buy auto zone replacement brand ? Will they hold up ? Will o still have to check the car every 8k miles ?
That’s what I’m trying to improve
Get your pocket knife out, scrape'm, and drive home. As for 8000 miles, I still had the 1979 or older points in my Bee and was still driving it 30+ years later and close to 60, 000 miles. Never ONCE worried about getting home! Halifax Hops has good points from time to time, snag a few sets and carry them in the car. A lot easier to change than carrying around a spare MSD box !
1969dartcleanupweek19.5 043.JPG
 
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I'd buy up a couple of sets of old points/condensors when they come up for sale and stick with what you have. My RR was converted to a Mallory Unilite before my purchase and I'm tired of dealing with it. If I have another issue I'm taking it back to points. If your car runs don't mess with it.
 
I put in a 1st gen mopar ignition and that was almost 20 years ago. A lot has changed/improved since then with other setups; but overall it's been very reliable - some 7 or 8 years ago, the ECU went out and those are pretty cheap unless you want to get a USA made one. My spare I keep in the trunk is a USA one I just bought from a forum vendor I'll put in after some distributor work.
 
I like the Mopar electronic systems if you piece it together, the orange boxes now are usually fake. Points are fine for around 10K miles, really simple also and are mechanical and usually can get them going again if you understand how they work, that said always carry a ballast resistor with you no mater what system, you decide, a spare set of point/con and a ecu. MSD has not been very good lately it seems so I would stay away from them. No mater what you choose the parts store probably wont have it in stock. And yes I usually have NORS USA made parts in house if needed.
 
Might end up giing that route with a dodge electric ignition 71-77 and add the hei gm module

anyone running that here ?
 
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