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Need info on a modified 727 valve body

dan juhasz

dan juhasz

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As I’m going through the rebuild of the 67 727 trans I’ve noticed that it most likely had a Trans Go TF2 Shift kit installed, or at least some of the components. I don’t drag race or overly abuse my rides. I like a nice crisp 1~2 up shift to chirp a tire and an occasional burn out but that’s about it. I don’t know what the modifications made to the valve body actually change about the transmissions longevity and operation. I’m going to provide pictures of what was changed and what wasn’t. If members that are really familiar could comment on “leave it that way” or do that step also it would be a big help. This hole was not drilled picture one. Should I do it? Picture 2~5 shows a modification that was made on the valve body. Pictures 6 and 7 show a restriction installed in the case. Should I leave this? Also there was modifications done to the separator plate enlarging several holes. Springs on the pressure regulator are also pretty heavy duty. Picture 8
Any advice is really appreciated!!

A32B90E0-C15B-4D11-B862-251A5814B0D4.jpeg 4C01C082-A59C-4703-8AC4-65A3D25FF0EB.jpeg 98E258FD-18FA-4B77-90F7-33E112FBC87A.jpeg C8132A98-A045-4DCF-8F48-9B3996E1D251.jpeg F718D091-3CDD-44E4-AA0D-9948C7001A16.jpeg 9057D1D1-CB2C-4062-9A7C-1FD1BE218FE7.jpeg 2D2F7BF5-33BF-4C98-9B49-D294EB894BEE.jpeg FBFE7D99-578E-42C1-987B-4EB6BCAAF12D.jpeg
 
Me personally, whenever I do a TF1 or TF2 mod I always go "by the book" with what needs to be done. I did, however leave the checkball installed nearest the area that had the wall removed with the jig. I still get very nice firm shifts without it being overly harsh. I went from having the TF1 installed by a po to the TF2 kit last year and really like it. Yes, I would leave the orfice plug installed.
 
turbine68rt said:
Me personally, whenever I do a TF1 or TF2 mod I always go "by the book" with what needs to be done. I did, however leave the checkball installed nearest the area that had the wall removed with the jig. I still get very nice firm shifts without it being overly harsh. I went from having the TF1 installed by a po to the TF2 kit last year and really like it. Yes, I would leave the orfice plug installed.
Click to expand...
So you Drilled the hole in figure 1?
 
If your interested I have stock valve bodys @ $100.00 plus shipping if youd like to go that route--All the modified bodys Ive done reverse 1st and 3rd and still shifted great--Id also increase the line pressure and never found it objectionable--its up to you--Hemidon
 
hemidon1 said:
If your interested I have stock valve bodys @ $100.00 plus shipping if youd like to go that route--All the modified bodys Ive done reverse 1st and 3rd and still shifted great--Id also increase the line pressure and never found it objectionable--its up to you--Hemidon
Click to expand...
I will keep it in mind should I go that direction, thank you
 
I had the TF2 in my challenger and went by the instructions. Hole was drilled. I was happy with the results.
 
Most of the Transgo mods are year specific so follow their specs.
Mike
 
As I recall 15 years or so ago, I bought a B&M shift kit for my PB 727. There were options with how harsh a shift you wanted. I chose the middle range and followed the instructions to a tee. Included drilling a hole. I got the 1st-2nd chirp - now I'm on to how to modify the shift points; but this era trans didn't have on-demand shifting unless it's floored. When I want a little fun I just shift it manually.
 
dan juhasz said:
I don’t know what the modifications made to the valve body actually change about the transmissions longevity and operation.
Click to expand...

The hole in #1 keeps the converter filled.

Removing the partition in #2-5 makes a shorter path between the 1-2 shift valve and the 2-3 shift valve. Removing the ball from the adjacent pocket makes a much firmer 1-2 shift.

The restrictor in #6-7 slows down the application of the front clutch to prevent severe overlap. Sometimes not needed.

Enlarging the holes in the separator plate increases fluid flow (firmer shifts).
 
Dipstick said:
The hole in #1 keeps the converter filled.

Removing the partition in #2-5 makes a shorter path between the 1-2 shift valve and the 2-3 shift valve. Removing the ball from the adjacent pocket makes a much firmer 1-2 shift.

The restrictor in #6-7 slows down the application of the front clutch to prevent severe overlap. Sometimes not needed.

Enlarging the holes in the separator plate increases fluid flow (firmer shifts).
Click to expand...
Thank you great info
 
hemidon1 said:
If your interested I have stock valve bodys @ $100.00 plus shipping if youd like to go that route--All the modified bodys Ive done reverse 1st and 3rd and still shifted great--Id also increase the line pressure and never found it objectionable--its up to you--Hemidon
Click to expand...
Do you have valve bodies for sale? Do you have PTKD version? I have a TF2 kit to install(1st time)
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