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Mini Starter Doesn’t Fit

Late with this. Put this $60 NAPA mini starter in my Hemi Satellite. Fit perfect but removed the stud extension first.
starter NAPA.jpg
 
I installed a Powermaster 9513 in my 69 440 GTX and it fit like a glove!!! The only difference between the two is that there is no nose cone on the starter.
For what it's worth... I live close to the Powermaster plant and bought my starter directly from them at the factory and the engineer at the plant said "you don't need the nose cone". What do I know right? Anyway it fit so....is the nose cone the issue?
 
To me it seems all these starters "look" the same (basically). Could these issues (mine included) be due to casting tolerances in the blocks?
 
Both starters I bought hit on the block at about the 8-10 o’clock position when looking at the rear of the starter. I don’t have a problem making clearance just wish I knew ahead before the assembled k member with motor / transmission was installed into a rotisserie body and now risk messing up the paint, etc.

I didn’t have the starter at the time (back order) so we left the header loose to install the starter later and that’s when the issue was discovered.

If companies selling this stuff included instructions sheets or noted in their catalog listings what has to be done to use their products life would be a lot easier. They get customers calling into their tech people and they know about the issues. That’s what pisses me off!

I ended up using an original restored starter...
 
I just swapped in a mini starter to my 73 Charger, and I've got a few issues with it. After install, it kept turning over AFTER the keys were removed from the car. It did that maybe 6 times out of 10 after install, then it stopped and began firing right away with no problem. I took it for a test drive and I'm finding that it sounds like the starter is engaging when going faster than 40 MPH. I get a bad starter grinding noise around 3000 RPM. Should I replace the starter relay?

I've got a spare here, Im wondering if the old relay is not consistent enough with the new starter.
 
All of this over a $75 starter (with lifetime warranty and on-the-shelf local availability, I might add)?
The "Dakota" starter (actually, it fits all sorts of things, like Ram 318/360's, etc.) is well known to
the hobby as simply bolting on and saving space under headers - every time.
Add to that, all manner of testimonials.
Mine:
It's lasted over a decade now, has been used on three different 440's of different years and still
puts up with the abuse I put it through when it's time to crank things up after sitting a week or more.
When it doesn't one day, there's a free replacement waiting for me at the local parts store.

No, they don't have fancy aftermarket brand names. No, they aren't colorful or flashy.
No, they don't cost three times as much or come with cool decals.
No-brainer.
 
Both starters I bought hit on the block at about the 8-10 o’clock position when looking at the rear of the starter. I don’t have a problem making clearance just wish I knew ahead before the assembled k member with motor / transmission was installed into a rotisserie body and now risk messing up the paint, etc.

I didn’t have the starter at the time (back order) so we left the header loose to install the starter later and that’s when the issue was discovered.

If companies selling this stuff included instructions sheets or noted in their catalog listings what has to be done to use their products life would be a lot easier. They get customers calling into their tech people and they know about the issues. That’s what pisses me off!

I ended up using an original restored starter...

I too have been having problems with starter clearance with headers and block with my 440. My original starter gets hot and won't work until it cools. I'm thinking about trying the Powermaster 9413 or the Speedmaster PCE 393-1036. I've tried the Dakota mini high torque starter and it hits the headers, tried the RobMc starter and it hits the block close to where it bolts on and they say grind block, tried the CVR 1338M that has adjustable nose and still had clearance problems. I bought an original starter that is 3/4 inch shorter that gets me away from the headers more but info I found on it says it turns the motor slower.
 
I don't know if it's been posted, but there's an adapter made just for MOPAR that changes the angle and placement of the terminals on the mini-starters.
 
I am using a Dakota starter for 20 years. I did have casting flash that needed to be ground down. I have been thinking about that adapter that moves the terminals, but, it ain't broke, so......
 
none mine. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=mopar+mini+starter+terminal+wire+relocation+kit
I remove the plastic cover on top of terminal and remove what was on terminal an bolted there. Been some cases where you need to trim large stud, hits block. After removing what I did no trimming but check!
Agree with this^^^^^^^^^^^^^.
I have had 2 starters on my 440/505 , both fit perfect , but succumed to heat , after I TOOK THE DAM FIBERGLASS WRAP OF THE HEADERS .
I JUST BOUGHT A POWERMASTER FROM SUMMIT , THE $160 ONE THATS GOOD FOR 14 TO 1 COMP. AND NOT CLOCKABLE , LOOKS JUST LIKE THE OTHER TWO , SO HOPE IT WILL WORK , WAITING ON MU NEW HEADERS TO TRY IT ----Disregard caps !
 
All of this over a $75 starter (with lifetime warranty and on-the-shelf local availability, I might add)?
The "Dakota" starter (actually, it fits all sorts of things, like Ram 318/360's, etc.) is well known to
the hobby as simply bolting on and saving space under headers - every time.
Add to that, all manner of testimonials.
Mine:
It's lasted over a decade now, has been used on three different 440's of different years and still
puts up with the abuse I put it through when it's time to crank things up after sitting a week or more.
When it doesn't one day, there's a free replacement waiting for me at the local parts store.

No, they don't have fancy aftermarket brand names. No, they aren't colorful or flashy.
No, they don't cost three times as much or come with cool decals.
No-brainer.

Of course this is on a 761 h.p. engine in a small A body engine bay with 2''headers = heat kill !
 
Think thats the one I just heat killed , got my$ back -----
That's an auction just for the terminal relocation kit, but I get the jist of your post.
No, I cannot comment about whether the factory "Dakota starter" would last in an a-body 761hp situation....
but I know it lasts longer than any of those high-dollar "mini-starters" they sell in the hot rod stores and again:
"lifetime warranty" for a lot less than $100.00, on the shelf at the local parts store.
There's a lot to be said for that.
 
No, I cannot comment about whether the factory "Dakota starter" would last in an a-body 761hp situation....but I know it lasts longer than any of those high-dollar "mini-starters" they sell in the hot rod stores and again:
"lifetime warranty" for a lot less than $100.00, on the shelf at the local parts store.
I can't explain why the "Dakota" starter a Mopar racer (he knows Mopar) who has worked at a "big" parts store for YEARS wouldn't fit on my 440, but clearance issues with the edge of the block wasn't going to allow it, no way.
Yeah, the MSD DynaForce mini starter was a LOT of money, around $300, but it's been outstanding from the moment I installed it, under hard use. Maybe the power of the electric motor? the reduction ratio? the nickel plated components? ball bearing armature?
What I know is I looked at a lot of mini starters for the application, and I got to the point of saying "f-it! I'm getting this one, and I have NO regrets!
msd-5098_w (1).jpg

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/mini-starter-doesn’t-fit.204368/page-2#post-911702082
 
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