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Now for something completely different . . . an anvil stand . . . for my shop

I look at the two options below . . . which would you rather have in your shop ?


anvilPlanPic.jpg
sm_anvilbase30.jpg


Wait . . .let me guess . . . you'd take the wooden stump . . . LOL
 
Got the legs burned in tonight . . . want to take a bit more time and try to assure the top is as level as I can make it . . .

If you saw some of my earlier welds from my car . . . these are looking so much better ! ! !

sm_anvilbase34.jpg


These legs are not going anywhere . . .

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Now . . . to get the top welded in place and check out my "tone" . . . LMAO
 
After getting my yard cut, decided to take a look at the top (or base) of the stand . . .

So in order to weld it, I needed a level spot . . . so I cross-checked the floor . . . and it was good . . .

sm_anvilbase36.jpg


and the other way . . . looks good . . . used this area to level out the top . . .

sm_anvilbase37.jpg


And got the top burned in . . . most of the way . . . will hit it some more tomorrow
when I have some room outside and some light . . .

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Burned in pretty good . . .

sm_anvilbase39.jpg


What you didn't see was me fighting with getting the top of the base closer to level so I didn't have to weld 1/4" gaps . . .

But it's NOT going anywhere now . . . next to pull out the anvil . . . Oh Boy ! ! !
 
Looks like it's going together! My suggestion is to do multiple passes. A lot of the welding I did on railway cars had three passes. Also, it might just be the light in the picture but it looks like a lot of brown residue, suggesting that more shielding gas is needed.
upload_2021-5-6_20-1-40.png
 
Looks like it's going together! My suggestion is to do multiple passes. A lot of the welding I did on railway cars had three passes. Also, it might just be the light in the picture but it looks like a lot of brown residue, suggesting that more shielding gas is needed.
View attachment 1107062

Always appreciate pointers on how to do my welding better . . . Thanks !
 
Haven't had use for an anvil yet but if I get one I might be tempted to do a old time anvil shoot.
You put black powder under it and shoot it up in the air.
Small town entertainment in the old days
Check it out
 
Second passes on all the welds, and increased my gas pressure as suggested by @Photon440 and the welds are looking better . . .

Second pass welds . . .

sm_anvilbase40.jpg


Cross check the top for level . . . first direction . . .

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Cross checked for level in the other direction . . . I'm very happy . . .

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And . . . the final product . . . less the anvil . . .

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Another view . . .

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Another view . . .

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Another view . . .

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Next, to drag out the anvil (hope I can get to it) and figure out how to mount it to the base . . .

And then . . . check for my "tone" . . .
 
Well . . . I got the durn thing dragged out, and now I know why I had troubles . . .

Here's the anvil information . . . and pictures of it on the stand . . .

From what I can figure out, it's reads
HENRY
WRIGHT
Cley
(??)
WARRANTED
SOLID

172 pounds - no wonder I had a lot of fun picking the thing up . . . UGH !

sm_anvilbase49.jpg


It's heavy . . . 172# . . . .

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Some WD40 added to see if I could read it any better . . .

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And it sitting on the stand . . .

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And the other side . . . I think it looks good ! !

sm_anvilbase48.jpg


Now to get it mounted . . .
 
Here's my thoughts on holding this thing to the base . . .

Run a bolt through the angle iron to hold it to the base . . . tap a hole in the base.
Maybe even have the bolt extend through the bottom to allow a locking nut underneath . . .

sm_anvilbase52.jpg


The other side . . .

sm_anvilbase53.jpg


Across the front . . .

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The back bracket . . . turned out to be almost identical to the front bracket . . .

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Both of the bracket in place . . . with the angle iron hold downs . . .

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And a question . . .

Do I need to add an angle iron bracket on the corners to hold this thing in place ? ?
I've seen it on other anvil stands - just wondering if it helps, or if it's even necessary ? ?

Thoughts ? ? ?

sm_anvilbase57.jpg


Just need to figure a few things out and get these brackets welded up, holes drilled, and tapped . . .

Uh . . . what size bolt would be needed for this too ? ? 1/2" bolt . . . bigger ? ? Thoughts ? ? ?
 
The stand has turned out brilliantly Larry.

Love the detail, dedication and workmanship you put into these side projects. :thumbsup:
 
172lbs!!! At that weight you could just put the corner pieces on and not even bolt it down, 172lbs isn't jumping out of there lol.
 
172lbs!!! At that weight you could just put the corner pieces on and not even bolt it down, 172lbs isn't jumping out of there lol.

Yeah, probably very true . . . but . . .

I'm NOT a blacksmith, and I want to know how to do it right . . . so I'm asking . . . LOL
 
I think I’d use the corner pieces. Your hold downs look a lot like mine, but my anvil is set into the log about 3/8 of an inch to keep it from moving around.
 
I'm wondering if you could just thread the end of the re-bar and make it long enough to extend through the base with a nut underneath??? Eliminate the angle iron piece altogether for a cleaner look???
 
I think I’d use the corner pieces. Your hold downs look a lot like mine, but my anvil is set into the log about 3/8 of an inch to keep it from moving around.

Liked the look of your hold downs so I copied them - think that they look great !

Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery

I'm wondering if you could just thread the end of the re-bar and make it long enough to extend through the base with a nut underneath??? Eliminate the angle iron piece altogether for a cleaner look???

That's a great idea - since the rebar is done, a bolt could be just welded onto the ends . . .

Think I'll give that a shot . . .

Great suggestions - thanks !
 
We have had quarter horses all our lives. The farrier will have a stand and angle iron along the edge to hold it secure like you are thinking. Those guys work out of a truck and their anvil is lke 70 lbs. so it can be handled.
I mentioned the hickory stump being a smartass but in the old blacksmith shops 150 yrs ago, that is how they did it.
 
Are there any holes in the bottom of the anvil? Something that you could weld a pin to the plate to hold the anvil in position? You wouldn’t need the corner pieces, just the holdowns. Thank you for the compliment, don’t get many of those! :thankyou: My holdowns were made to look somewhat ‘rustic’, where yours are more like modern art. Great job.
 
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