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Whats the simplest way to mount a starter....

bandit67

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Guys, my homemade engine run stand is set up like an engine build stand. So I need to mount a starter to the 440 to crank with, but can't use a tranny or bell housing. Would the flat plate of a scatter shield be stout enough to mount a starter, or you guys got a simpler fix....thanks...
 
Without being reinforced no, not thick enough and needs to hold starter nose. Could be modified to work I guess.
 
Sounds like you need to reinvent your stand.
 
Simple cheap mount is a cut off broken transmission case. You will need to at least redesign one corner of your stand
 
That starter plate seems to be the quickest fix for me at the moment: I have a stock flywheel but not sure what tooth it is. Did they make like 10.5 and 11 inch flywheels for big blocks. I do have a flywheel for both a cast crank and a steel crank, but they look the same size.
 
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That starter plate seems to be the quickest fix for me at the moment: I have a stock flywheel but not sure what tooth it is. Did they make like 10.5 and 11 inch flywheels for big blocks.
yep both
 

isn’t there actually 3 different sizes? I have the 10.95” clutch in my car, which is remarkably close to the 11” size, but according to Wayne Brewer, is only correct for the aluminum bellhousing. The 11” clutch is for the cast iron bell, and we did not discuss the 10.5”.
 
Will a small block flywheel bolt onto a bb flywheel....I have several of those but no idea as to what flywheel has what tooth count.
 
Why not put a want ad for a damaged bellhousing. If you have a 10.5" or an 11" flywheel put ad for the size flywheel you have.
 
Will a small block flywheel bolt onto a bb flywheel....I have several of those but no idea as to what flywheel has what tooth count.
Yes the 10.5 neutral balance flywheel will work on big or small block cranks. make sure
of the application on internal or external balance cranks each use their respective flywheels.
 
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isn’t there actually 3 different sizes? I have the 10.95” clutch in my car, which is remarkably close to the 11” size, but according to Wayne Brewer, is only correct for the aluminum bellhousing. The 11” clutch is for the cast iron bell, and we did not discuss the 10.5”.

Cosgig
there were only two sizes on the flywheels
of course excluding the 172 tooth hemi
the 10.5 has 130 vs the 11 has 143 teeth.
the flywheels can come drilled for the size
of the Pressure plates.
 
Why not put a want ad for a damaged bellhousing. If you have a 10.5" or an 11" flywheel put ad for the size flywheel you have.

Well you know, Chevy bell housing, scatter shields are a dime dozen and everywhere to be found, but NOT Mopar stuff. I mean Brewers and Passion repops start at $450, so the used parts command pretty high prices. The quickest , simplest thing for me is to NOT have to reconfigure my run stand. So, Im thinking that starter plate along with using one of my sb or bb flywheels would get me spinning over the motor the quickest. But, I value folks ideas and opinions here, they have saved me time and money many times.....
 
I did exactly the same thing - built a run stand and then puzzled about how to mount the starter. I wound up fabbing a small plate that bolts to the rear of the block, and the starter bolts to that. I used some stout steel plate, probably 1/4" thick. Worked fine once I got the starter aligned properly, but it was a bit of work.
 
My plate is pretty full at the moment so I ordered that one listed on ebay....will let y'all know how it works out...thanks..
 
Got the starter mount plate from an ebay seller and got my engine with starter mounted to my engine run stand. Looks good and I think it will work just fine in doing a engine/cam break in run. Thanks for the help y'all.....

IMG_0258.jpg IMG_0260.jpg
 
Looks good. I'd watch if there is any flex in the mounting plate. The nose piece goes into trans to keep the gear engaged. You could put something between block and other end of starter. Probably be OK as is.
 
Without being reinforced no, not thick enough and needs to hold starter nose. Could be modified to work I guess.
When you say the starter nose needs something to hold it are referring to the bolts that would normally go through the mounting holes in the starter then into the bellhousing?
 
When you say the starter nose needs something to hold it are referring to the bolts that would normally go through the mounting holes in the starter then into the bellhousing?
If you look at the picture above you will see a round nose on the starter that part needs to fit into a matching recess in the bell housing. without that support the two flanges on the starter would see extra stress when cranking and will eventually lead to broken starter ears.
 
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