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Engine Block ID

AZ Steve

AZ Steve

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Hi, I'm looking for a little help. I have a 25364305 440 block Dated 6-16-66, Id like some help decoding the engine tab.

Thanks for any help,

Engine block numbers.jpg Engine tab.jpg
 
You have a june 16th 1966 440 casting block assembled january 13, 1967 for 1967 car. C=67, D=68 E=69 etc.
 
Really, the same 'block' HP or Non-HP. The HP stamp means it was built with HP Cam, Compression Ratio, 4-bbl intake, and HP exhaust manifolds. I think there may be a difference in cast vs. forged cranks, and connecting rod type depending on the production year(s), and Induction type when talking early 6-pack engines.
 
451Mopar said:
Really, the same 'block' HP or Non-HP. The HP stamp means it was built with HP Cam, Compression Ratio, 4-bbl intake, and HP exhaust manifolds. I think there may be a difference in cast vs. forged cranks, and connecting rod type depending on the production year(s), and Induction type when talking early 6-pack engines.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the help. looks like its standard and will clean at .030 Ill will be selling it. trying to figure out a fair asking price.
 
People that are doing accurate type restorations on B bodies will care about the HP stamp, but no one else will. The assembly date would have to be correct for a restoration also.
 
451Mopar said:
Really, the same 'block' HP or Non-HP. The HP stamp means it was built with HP Cam, Compression Ratio, 4-bbl intake, and HP exhaust manifolds. I think there may be a difference in cast vs. forged cranks, and connecting rod type depending on the production year(s), and Induction type when talking early 6-pack engines.
Click to expand...
100% correct, except I don't think there were any cast cranks in 67 440's.
 
All were steel cranks. Doesn't matter if it's a HP block or not. They're the same.
 
I was speaking in general, not specific to 1966 / 1967.
What condition are the lifter bores? Can't really tell in the photo, looks pretty dirty (or rusted?)
Asking, because if the lifter bores need to be sleeved, the block won't be worth as much unless someone is looking for that year specific as they don't have the raised ridges on the outside like the later blocks do.
I actually have a 1966 block that I need to sonic check. It did not cleanup at 0.040" over. Might at 0.055" over, but not sure how thick the bores are.
 
451Mopar said:
I was speaking in general, not specific to 1966 / 1967.
What condition are the lifter bores? Can't really tell in the photo, looks pretty dirty (or rusted?)
Asking, because if the lifter bores need to be sleeved, the block won't be worth as much unless someone is looking for that year specific as they don't have the raised ridges on the outside like the later blocks do.
I actually have a 1966 block that I need to sonic check. It did not cleanup at 0.040" over. Might at 0.055" over, but not sure how thick the bores are.
Click to expand...
yep lots if accumulated stuff. sprayed WD 40 on them and tapped with a small ball peen tried 4 and 4 moved. I need to soak them before trying to remove them. AZ don't rust things bad. looks like this spent most of the time under cover.
 
R/T Boy 67 said:
People that are doing accurate type restorations on B bodies will care about the HP stamp, but no one else will. The assembly date would have to be correct for a restoration also.
Click to expand...
Here's your HP stamp.
https://www.mcmaster.com/1558T41/
Utterly indistinguishable, and they were the same casting in the first place, same stamp, applied 50 years later. If you're paying more than the cost of the letter stamps more for the block you're being taken.
 
So all you, any idea on value?
I got my block in trade for labor. Then Mike gave me money for labor plus the block? Either way it would have been more a friend-to-friend sale.
My uneducated guess for a good deal is around $300, but I have seen bare blocks sell for twice that? Maybe to someone who needed a date coded block?

My quoted prices could be way off as I haven't looked to but a bare block in a few years, but nobody else gave their 2-cents.
 
Are the main caps with the block? There are a lot of unanswered questions. To answer those questions usually costs money at a machine shop. Does it need bored? Is the block good? A sonic test to see if it can be bored and how much. As it is, it's still a 67 C 440 pig in the poke. I'm going to say $250-$400 depending on what can be determined without a machine shop and spending cash. Just my opinion.
 
I have know idea what a 440 block is worth today. A '66 casting is about as good as any. They all seem very usable. Years ago I would sell one for about $100, maybe that's way low now. I still have one '70 block that sonic tested real good. May need to think about the value.
 
Thanks for the info, I got the Cam and lifters and plugs out. main caps are there. the block is standard looks like it will clean at .030 I think ill have it cleaned and checked for cracks. possibly bored as well. seems It would go well with the 67 R/T builder i have.
 
Mopar blocks don't wear real bad so .030 should do it on most any one. They don't crack much either, except the pre-68's that may crack between the freeze plugs if not properly cared for in the cold. Good luck.
 
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