LA to RB swap, looking for recommendations on radiators

Hubbarocks · May 7, 2021

hi guys,

in the middle of a LA to RB swap on my 69 charger (318 >440) , looking for recommendations on radiators. currently have the small block radiator p/n unknown with out me checking (AC / automatic car) that has served great with dual electric fans i took off an Intrepid (bolted right up to the factory shroud mounting points) never had any cooling issues unless i forget to turn the fans on.

I'm no expert, but I'm guessing I'm going to need larger "core" radiator as the upper / lower hose ports are smaller from LA to RB engines. Unless they make hoses to specificlly fit this type of application. I did not check into that.

I'd like to keep it driver side upper & lower ports. I no longer have AC. There are so many options out there , many look like I'd have to retro fit a fancy aluminum one ? or are they mostly bolt in? Anyone use Holley's Frostbite radiator , etc.

Looking for your expertise and recommendations for direct swap to the larger radiator, I'm assuming I'm going to need...

you're 2 cents ?

Lefty71 · May 7, 2021

To start out, what is your core support set up for??, meaning the big hole in the middle, not just the mounting bolts.... Some folks will replace the core support to the 26" style as a starting point. To keep a factory look, you may want to find a ~68-73 C body radiator since many of them are thick core big block with AC. That would be easier to locate than the correct big block charger radiator. There are many good cooling aluminum options too if originality is not key.

Ron_M · May 7, 2021

FWIW, if your BB water pump exits on the drivers side, Gates 23035 is a hose so that you can use the SB radiator. Got one on Amazon for a future build. Kinda hokey.

91r/t · May 7, 2021

A/C car would automatically have a 26" radiator/core support correct? Or is that only big block a/c cars?

Hubbarocks · May 7, 2021

thanks for the responses!

"There are many good cooling aluminum options too if originality is not key." > NOPE, not concerned.

where is the 26 In. measurement you're referring to. below is really only decent photo i have of mine.

or is the 26" referring to the bolt hole centers ?

Gates 23035 is a hose > i'll check this out. might be cheapest option to get me going & use what i have currently. if i have problems i can always update radiator later

Ccas · May 7, 2021

Hubbarocks said:
thanks for the responses!

"There are many good cooling aluminum options too if originality is not key." > NOPE, not concerned.

where is the 26 In. measurement you're referring to. below is really only decent photo i have of mine.

or is the 26" referring to the bolt hole centers ?

View attachment 1107192

Gates 23035 is a hose > i'll check this out. might be cheapest option to get me going & use what i have currently. if i have problems i can always update radiator later

Good news is you have a 26" radiator support. So that makes your swap pretty simple fitment wise and pretty high probability of having plenty of cooling potential.

Are you going to run a pulley system on the new motor or original pulleys and mechanical water pump?

F4R/T · May 7, 2021

Glen ray all the way! After you measure your opening!

Ccas · May 7, 2021

To my knowledge, Dodge never made a 26" radiator with the inlet and outlet both on the driver side. When they designed the 26" radiator, they made the inlet and outlet opposite sides for maximum cooling efficiency. (The flow of water down and to the opposite side is much more efficient than straight down with both on hte same side.

So for your application, you'd want a rad with the top on the passenger side and the bottom on the Driver side. That should simply be a waterneck and upper hose change.

So your's should look like this.

https://www.coldcaseradiators.com/product/66-74-be-body-17x26-auto-aluminum-performance-radiator

Hubbarocks · May 7, 2021

Ccas said:
Good news is you have a 26" radiator support. So that makes your swap pretty simple fitment wise and pretty high probability of having plenty of cooling potential.

Are you going to run a pulley system on the new motor or original pulleys and mechanical water pump?

i got 440 sources serpentine pulley set up

Hubbarocks · May 7, 2021

Ccas said:
To my knowledge, Dodge never made a 26" radiator with the inlet and outlet both on the driver side. When they designed the 26" radiator, they made the inlet and outlet opposite sides for maximum cooling efficiency. (The flow of water down and to the opposite side is much more efficient than straight down with both on hte same side.

So for your application, you'd want a rad with the top on the passenger side and the bottom on the Driver side. That should simply be a waterneck and upper hose change.

So your's should look like this.

https://www.coldcaseradiators.com/product/66-74-be-body-17x26-auto-aluminum-performance-radiator

i'm 100% drivers side outlet / inlet currently , i'm not opposed to put top passenger's side port , but i have a drivers side waterpump housing ... i see Frostbite makes top/bottom both drivers ports.

beanhead · May 7, 2021

91r/t said:
A/C car would automatically have a 26" radiator/core support correct? Or is that only big block a/c cars?

Must have been on SB cars too, my '68 originally-a-318 A/C car was equipped with a 26".

Ccas · May 8, 2021

Hubbarocks said:
i'm 100% drivers side outlet / inlet currently , i'm not opposed to put top passenger's side port , but i have a drivers side waterpump housing ... i see Frostbite makes top/bottom both drivers ports.

View attachment 1107256

LH WP exit is critical.

If it's a downflow and both inlet and outlet are on the same side, that's very inefficient. That's why all major car makers abandon this design around 1967-1968 at the latest. If the frostbite you saw is a crossflow, that would be a better design but then it's not going to be a bolt on. Also, Frostbite units are 3 small rows of tubes. This is Fine for copper/brass but not good for aluminum. Not nearly as much volume and a lot more wasted aluminum structure that slows the flow of air through the rad. All the big names in aluminum radiators use 'big 2 row'. More expensive but way more efficient.

OKDart · May 9, 2021

I had a 22" radiator with both inlet/outlet on drivers side re-cored through a local shop. The shop said there are baffles that direct the inlet water to the passenger side. Still a bad design IMO.

AFAIK, small block and big block all shared the same size inlet/outlet, so a swap to big block should just be plug and play. It doesn't look like there's anything wrong with your setup now, why not try it out as is? If you do get a new radiator, all it takes to swap to passenger side inlet is a $15 hose, no big deal.

Hubbarocks · May 10, 2021

Thanks OKDart. This is what I'm leaning on too. I had just assumed, bigger motor , bigger radiator / coolant system needed. but sounds like because it was an A/C car and i have larger radiator that is in good shape with my dual cooling fans i'll be okay. Looks like i can still use the same upper rad. hose & If i can just buy the new lower radiator hose and get away with it without the engine running hot, I'm willing to try that option.

i did find this , looked to be fairly inexpensive , aluminum / dual core & direct swap radiator. Moves the top port to the passengers side.

https://www.holley.com/products/cooling/radiators_and_accessories/radiators/parts/FB156

Hubbarocks · May 10, 2021

F4R/T said:
Glen ray all the way! After you measure your opening!

these guys are actually about 3 hours away from me. They list SB and Big Block 26" radiators available. Maybe i'll give them a call to see what the difference is ? unless someone can enlighten me.

Dave6T4 · May 10, 2021

Some late model ('70's) big blocks had a waterpmp with intake on passenger side. This would also help with clearance around oil filter.

Ccas · May 10, 2021

Hubbarocks said:
Thanks OKDart. This is what I'm leaning on too. I had just assumed, bigger motor , bigger radiator / coolant system needed. but sounds like because it was an A/C car and i have larger radiator that is in good shape with my dual cooling fans i'll be okay. Looks like i can still use the same upper rad. hose & If i can just buy the new lower radiator hose and get away with it without the engine running hot, I'm willing to try that option.

i did find this , looked to be fairly inexpensive , aluminum / dual core & direct swap radiator. Moves the top port to the passengers side.

https://www.holley.com/products/cooling/radiators_and_accessories/radiators/parts/FB156

2 row is definitely better than their 3 row unit but it's still only dual 1". You already have a radiator that's the same as that. I'd just keep what you have and try it. If it doesn't get the job done, then you know you need to think outside your current setup for something with more volume or more airflow or both.

moparedtn · May 10, 2021

Griffin "Direct Fit" radiators. Best in the biz.
There ya go. :thumbsup:

Chipslinger0 · Jul 14, 2021

Hubbarocks said:
i'm 100% drivers side outlet / inlet currently , i'm not opposed to put top passenger's side port , but i have a drivers side waterpump housing ... i see Frostbite makes top/bottom both drivers ports.

View attachment 1107256

Wow! I have been searching for days for this radiator hose, what is the manufacturer/part number? I have a 26" raduatir #2785962 with the inlet on the drivers side. All the hoses i have found fit radiators with the inlet on the passenger side. Any help will be greatly appreciated!!!

JG71B · Jul 16, 2021

I went with this route last year.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/392277934001
Killer price and 5yr warranty. Its a 71 air car, running non air currently but can add air down the road as inlet and outlet are set up for it.

LA to RB swap, looking for recommendations on radiators

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