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Correct torque lbs for lugnuts

I did not drive car after I torqued the wheels just thought since car was not driven and did not have any rotations I may be able to retorque wheels if I did no damage sorry for my stupidity and yes I know what happens when a wheel falls off Thanks Nick.
It's not stupidity!! Don't insult yourself, Sir. With new grade 8 studs and lug nuts, you will not have a problem tightening them a little tighter than the "recommended" torque. Tighter is far better than looser.
 
It's not stupidity!! Don't insult yourself, Sir. With new grade 8 studs and lug nuts, you will not have a problem tightening them a little tighter than the "recommended" torque. Tighter is far better than looser.
I 'm not insulting myself I/B. I just want to be sure look at my profile page these are the wheels i'm running I had new studs pressed in a while back THANKS for you feedback Thanks Nick.
 
Apparently some people do not understand what "torque" means
A fasteners torque rating is measured by stretch. It is actually tension, like a rubber band. It is designed to only stretch a given amount. That is what the fastener grading system rates. Grade 1 is much softer/weaker than grade 8. Overstretch it (over torque it) and it will eventually fail. Too loose and the fastener will come off. Too tight and it will eventually break. Nobody has calibrated wrist and torque ratings are not measured by good enough or as tight as it gets. Imagine if that was the torque specs on your engines parts. Some would break, some would fall off.
It seems like some people here are competing in a stupid contest. In that contest everybody loses.
 

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  • MOPAR LUG NUT TORQUE.pdf
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My 73 manual says 65LB for all but Valiant with drum brakes
Most later stuff with 1/2 in studs are 90+LB
A lot is the wheel type the deicides
 
I gun tightened wheels forever. Worked in the auto repair industry 46 years. Most that use a gun way overtighten them. It amazing how little it takes to get to 100lb/ft. Different diameter studs (or bolts in some cases) require different amounts of torque. For the average deal you can get close. No one torques every fastener. That being said I torque a lot of items on my racecar. Wheels are on that list. For good 1/2" studs I use 100lb/ft. Car runs 1.25 60ft with 1/2" studs. On the other hand with a steel wheel even 100lb/ft may not hold the wheel against the drum/rotor. We bent the 1/2" Moroso studs on my sons car using steel wheels torqued to 10lb/ft. There simply wasn't enough surface area of the wheel contacting the rotor. That was running 1.38 60 ft.
Doug
 
Torque to yield: Tighten it until it breaks and back it off a half turn. :rofl:
 
I have a gun identical to this...


View attachment 1108823

And I squeeze the trigger until it stops. I have never had a broken stud or a stretched stud.
Never had one come loose either, which is a real disaster.

I have the predecessor to that gun (same model number but without TGSL).

It is adjustable to set a torque value at max PSI, and can be set different for fwd and rev.

Kind of a fiddly process but it works.

I have mine at max for lefty and about 80 at righty.


Absolutely agree on torque spec with AL or alloy wheels.

If you don't it will warp the rotors after a few heat cycles.

Steel wheels generally don't care.
 
I gun tightened wheels forever. Worked in the auto repair industry 46 years. Most that use a gun way overtighten them. It amazing how little it takes to get to 100lb/ft. Different diameter studs (or bolts in some cases) require different amounts of torque. For the average deal you can get close. No one torques every fastener. That being said I torque a lot of items on my racecar. Wheels are on that list. For good 1/2" studs I use 100lb/ft. Car runs 1.25 60ft with 1/2" studs. On the other hand with a steel wheel even 100lb/ft may not hold the wheel against the drum/rotor. We bent the 1/2" Moroso studs on my sons car using steel wheels torqued to 10lb/ft. There simply wasn't enough surface area of the wheel contacting the rotor. That was running 1.38 60 ft.
Doug
Nice Car
 
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