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Please help my friend out

Michael_ said:
My friend with the 1990 lincoln mark VII was on the way to prague when his engine started to make funny noises and the check engine light came on.
(According to him the check engine light comes on when the engine overheats or oil pressure is low.)
He describes the noise as "ticking like a diesel".

He sent me a video but unfortunately he is standing at the drivers door and not in front of the engine.
I have no idea why ^^

He asked me for advice.
Before the video i guessed maybe oil pressure was low due to faulty oil pump etc.
But judging by the crappy video i'm not really sure what it is.

He says after he let it sit for a while the noise was going away or at least getting better. But its coming back.
When he goes down hill or off accelerator check engine light tends to go back on...

Probably meet him saturday so if the car isn't in the shop by then could take a closer look ^^

He was driving 200 miles this way if i got him right which of course wasn't smart. (Except he's very lucky and its just an exhaust leak...)

Just 2 weeks ago i heard the engine running myself. It was running LIKE NEW. No funny noises at all.

Car just has about 15k miles on the odometer. He bought it last year and put about 2500 miles on it in the last couple months... Would really be a shame if the engine already needs to be rebuilt...

BTW: Does somebody know if ford sells complete crate engines like chevrolet does?

Video
Click to expand...



Like you said, crappy video, hard to say what the problem is.... It doesn't sound good but if he's driven it 200 miles like that it must have some oil pressure....

A) pull the dipstick, hows the level? Any metal particles?
B) remove the serpentine belt & run it, see if it still sounds the same...
3) shoot a new video from under the hood...
 
PurpleBeeper said:
Whoops! Yep, you're right. It's a 302 (5.0).....so, cam, rockers (I think roller hydraulic single cam)....****, you're screwed on the "check engine light". I think that's an old OBD I computer maybe....or actually pre-OBD I. Just diagnose it like an old Mopar, but yeah, don't drive 200 miles unless you're SURE it's an exhaust leak.
Click to expand...

It's EEC IV AKA OBD-1
 
66 Sat said:
I'm not suggesting removing the engine and completely tearing down. I'm talking about basics - oil pressure check, compression test, checking the plugs, ignition wires etc.
Click to expand...

1 Wild R/T said:
Like you said, crappy video, hard to say what the problem is.... It doesn't sound good but if he's driven it 200 miles like that it must have some oil pressure....

A) pull the dipstick, hows the level? Any metal particles?
B) remove the serpentine belt & run it, see if it still sounds the same...
3) shoot a new video from under the hood...
Click to expand...

If he wants to we can do some investigation on the weekend.
I could also bring my smoke machine so we could easily diagnose if its an exhaust leak without even running the engine.

I'm not sure if he wants to start it again but if its shot its already shot anyway i guess ^^
At least there are only two options:
Running and diagnosing or pulling, than tearing down and diagnosing.
 
If you can post (or PM me) the VIN, I will look for any engine bulletins and problems tomorrow.
 
69Bee said:
If you can post (or PM me) the VIN, I will look for any engine bulletins and problems tomorrow.
Click to expand...

I forwarded my friend the link to this thread per mail.
So if he wants to he would have to signup or send me the vin. I dont know the vin of his car obviously ^^
 
Sounds like 16 lifters ... exhaust will have a noticeable tick not like 16 ticks. Since I’m a betting man I’d say put a mechanical gauge on it, after checking the oil level and for leaks. My guess is a pump failed or related, or other catastrophic failure.. look but don’t waste to much time , I had a 5.8/351w sound just like that before it locked up, spun several rod bearings too. It had the old ford problem in the top end called sludge and all the oil was up top while traveling at highway speed. I worked for Ford and I’ve seen few failures like that but it happens. Look at car-part.com for a good used low mile one and go with it..
 
Given that the car is in Europe, this is most likely going to be a bigger deal than if it were here in the US.

It definitely sounds like lifter tic but as has been said several times, no one here can adequately diagnose this car over a video. There has to be some old school mechanics around some place. While it is not a Porsche or BMW its still just a car and any "good" mechanic should be able to determine the severity of the problem.
 
Sludge happens, as does the twisted off oil pump drive... But if it's been making noise for 200 miles I'd be surprised if it doesn't at least have some oil pressure.... As mentioned being in Europe is gonna make it tougher but as American engines go 5.0 Fords are only second to small block Chevies in how common they are.... He should be able to find an engine...
 
The answer to your one question is simple:
Yes, there's all manner of "crate" 5.0 engines available out there, from Ford and other sources.
 
Some questions are easily answered by a quick Google search. Maybe the Internet is as scarce in Germany as mechanics appear to be. Who works on all the old American iron over there I don't know? As well as all the old Volkswagons, and every other car over 20 years old. We're not talking about some third world country here. Some people just like to ask questions I guess. There are enough Mopars in Germany for them to have their own Mopar Nationals events, never mind the Chevys and Fords, so there's probably plenty of specialist mechanics that deal with old V8's (not the most complex engines to start with). Instead let's post a video halfway across the world, that'll fix it.
 
66 Sat said:
Some questions are easily answered by a quick Google search. Maybe the Internet is as scarce in Germany as mechanics appear to be. Who works on all the old American iron over there I don't know? As well as all the old Volkswagons, and every other car over 20 years old. We're not talking about some third world country here. Some people just like to ask questions I guess. There are enough Mopars in Germany for them to have their own Mopar Nationals events, never mind the Chevys and Fords, so there's probably plenty of specialist mechanics that deal with old V8's (not the most complex engines to start with). Instead let's post a video halfway across the world, that'll fix it.
Click to expand...

There are plenty of "specialist mechanics" in germany, i just dont trust them. (Due to personal experience and also what i got told by several other people)
There might be some good ones too but why risk something if you dont have to?
 
Maybe try to hook up with some of the people on here
upload_2021-5-14_6-59-39.png
 
As others have said tough to diagnose with one poor vid, but my first step would be to search on-line and see if the car has a simple flash code for the check engine diagnostics, my daughters 88 Aries K-car you turn the ignition on/off 3 times quickly then count the flashes of the check engine light...two quick flashes, then a pause, then 6 flashes gives a code of 26...thencheck your on-line source for corresponding fault.

After that check the oil level, and condition...does the oil on the dipstick have suspended metal particles (does it look like glitter in the oil?), does the oil look and smell burnt? If that checks out OK Then hook up a mechanical oil pressure gauge and verify oil pressure.
 
1 Wild R/T said:
It's EEC IV AKA OBD-1
Click to expand...
Thanks.... I think the only problem with that OBD I is that I believe the part stores only have the '94/'95 OBD I testers and the older cars required "special" connectors for each vehicle (if I remember correctly). I wonder if that computer is old enough that you can put a paper clip between two port connections and have the check engine light "blink" the codes to you?
 
Ford engines had a problem with the umbrella valve seals breaking apart, and plugging the oil return holes in the head. The engine oil would build up under the valve covers, instead of draining back into the pan. Then the engine is basically running out of oil.
Pretty easy to check, just pull off the valve covers. Be ready for a gush of oil that has been built up under there.
There's a chance the engine is already ruined.
 
Last edited:
Just an update!

We looked at the car yesterday.
First we made sure its not an exhaust leak by using my fog machine and blowing smoke through the exhaust. It does not leak at all.

Then we did the right thing and ran the car without doing anything else first. :D

We made a new video from directly under the hood.
From this point i think its kinda obvious that this engine has a serious problem...



After that we took the oil cap off and it looks like the engine has never ran in its entire life...

IMG_1059.jpg


The dipstick however is confusing. There is oil all the way up to the "full" mark BUT only on half the width of the dipstick?!? (See picture)

There are no metal flakes / glitter in the oil on the dipstick interestingly.
But i expect some in the oil pan anyway...

IMG_1061.jpg


It was raining and the car barely fits in his garage. I also missed to bring an oil pressure gauge.
Given this and how the engine sounds we stopped there.
He has a code scanner so i guess he will scan the car in the next couple days but honestly
(and without doing any further investigation) i think the car is ready for a new engine... I'm not an expert, though.
 
Taking off the oil filter and cutting it open 2 see if it is worth fixing or had a bearing failure is easy to do. It will look good or having filings in it. With the miles on it the filter should have collected some filings.
 
Last edited:
Curiousyellow71 said:
Taking off the oil filter and cutting it open 2 see if it is worth fixing or had a bearing failure is easy to do. It will look good or having filings in it. With the miles on it the filter should have collected some filings.
Click to expand...

The company who imported the car for him claimed they changed the engine oil and filter. So the filter should only have 2500 miles on it.
I agree its a good idea to cut the filter apart and take a look.

I hope its not due to a faulty filter but shouldn't the check engine light in this case already come have on after installing the filter?
The check engine light comes and goes. Maybe loose connection? (It wasn't coming on before the engine started to make funny noises)
 
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