yeah & the piston wear will be worse too
side loading differently (especially on old used stuff)
let alone bore taper in that specific cylinder
weird ring wear etc.
could all be nominal stuff, at that level of performance
the hp difference if any will be nominal
especially on a stock flattop piston engine
if it has valve reliefs on the quench side now
(if it didn't have them already)
it will affect the quench area also, maybe nominal too
"could result in" weird hot spots & possibly detonation too
IMO changing/moving the engineered side loading to the other side
probably isn't a great idea, nominal effect either way, on an OE setup
could even bust piston skirts
especially reusing old cast/alloy 'not a good forging' OE piston
the offset was meant to quiet it down some
not intended as performance advantages
make the piston rock/sideload in the cylinder even more
(could cause a piston slap noise too)
IMO probably gain more by just making/bushing them rods/pistons
to be free-floating at the wrist pins, in std orientation
I'd probably believe 'Steve Dulcich' time in a dyno room
experience over Uncle Tony's too, he claims "the TV guys"
from Roadkill Garage/Roadkill/Engine Masters 'like to talk'
he's one to talk himself...
Youtube channel Bloviator on the internet
maybe he should try it with a domed piston, even a mini-dome +6cc
that would be a hilarious outcome
(just kidding, nobody's that stupid or hopefully)
albeit;
Uncle Tony, does occasionally have some decent tips every so often
I'd suggest to
watch the 'Engine Masters' series about 'Rod Ratios'
season 5/eps. 1 (IIRC)
it's a true look into what happens with the piston
thru the whole 4 cycle combustion process
in the real world, real #'s & real tests, backed up
a simple cam change or rework the cylinder head
or combustion chamber or multiple performance valve angle grinds
is a way better idea IMO just to pick up a few HP, tried & true practices
to each their own
pissing contest & arguing over the internet is lame
