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727 trans pan

I would have to disagree with much of this; more fluid allows for more heat exchange and if you keep the fluid level where it is supposed to be, it will not uncover the pickup any more than the standard one. Deep pans have been available for a very long time and used is many forms of auto sports not to mention most modern transmissions come with deeper pans. Not trying to start any argument, just saying that deep pans have benefits.

IMHO, More room for slosh, uncovering the suction.
 
That's not a standard OEM pan depth for a 727 or at least the vast majority of 727's.
If it's deeper than standard 3/8" at most, MO. Looked at that picture again it does look deeper but think its the picture. I posted a picture of mine post #8.
 
If it's deeper than standard 3/8" at most, MO. Looked at that picture again it does look deeper but think its the picture. I posted a picture of mine post #8.

OK, looks the same depth as my DC deep pans, which are 1 1/4" deeper than all my passenger car/van OEM pans. But I don't have the Summit pan to measure.
 
you figure how much more pan area you get on the sides of the pan
you are not enlarging the bottom any
if your exhaust is near you might even pick up heat
you want cool use a cooler
and prefferably 1/2 inch hose
it has less loss than even 3/8 tube which MaMopar went to and 1/2 on the HD and diesels
 
This thread peaked my interest so I bought this badboy to try out. I like the solid rails that theoretically should seal more evenly than the stamped pan.
20200717_054219.jpg
 
It's in and ready for driving. :)
View attachment 977660
How has this B&M pan worked out for you? Are you happy with it?

My stock pan is leaking badly now. All the bolts feel very tight, so they have all probably been over torqued by a previous owner. I also suspect the gasket and filter haven’t been changed in 20 years..
 
for a pan gasket this is the best I've used
Mopar 727 transmission pan gasket 2464324ac and it is reusable to.
If you use this gasket, there is a like one for the 904 series, with a steel pan you must also use a bolt thats like two threads longer. When these gaskets were introduced, Mopar had a number for the longer bolts. If you didn't use them, it made stripping holes in the case easier. Check with your local dealer to get the bolts. On a cast pan these bolts won't work as they won't be long enough due to the thicker pan rail and you must source accordingly.
 
I ordered one of these TCI cast aluminum pans today. Should be here by Friday. My stock pan is now leaking almost as badly as the steering gearbox was when I first got my car..

When I drove the car, last Sunday, it was leaving a James Bond smoke screen behind it. Trans fluid was blowing back onto the exhaust pipes and burning on them.
 
I bought this Moroso unit and their 93110 gasket. I must've gotten it on sale because I definitely didn't spend $250.

It is a nice piece with a rigid flange, good reviews. I just got the trans back in the car and haven't loaded it with fluid yet, so no personal experience there.

https://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/42080/10002/-1


Wow, almost one year later and the price is up another $70. $319.99.
 
I tried a bunch of things and my pan is still leaking. This is beyond frustrating. I wont give up though.
 
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Sometimes the pan gets blamed because that's what the drips are hanging from. I have had leaks from dipstick tube seal, shifter seal, band adjustment bolt and a cracked convertor hub
 
How has this B&M pan worked out for you? Are you happy with it?

My stock pan is leaking badly now. All the bolts feel very tight, so they have all probably been over torqued by a previous owner. I also suspect the gasket and filter haven’t been changed in 20 years..

I love it. No leaks at the gasket. Very well built piece. Bolt holes can strip easy if overtorqued. I have a set of helicoil repair inserts for when another lets loose.
 
As mentioned, pan gasket gets blamed for other leaks. On the drivers side there is the shifter shaft to block seal, shifter shaft to kick down shaft seal, cooler fittings, front band adjuster (it usually dosen't leak), neutral safety switch. near the rear (excluding the parts away from the trans pan like speedometer gear housing) is the rear band lever shaft seals, and the tail shaft to case bolts. Passenger side, the servo pressure ports normally don't leak, but the dipstick tube and seal can leak. Had a tube that was cracked under the O-ring seal. Front, converter to pump seal, converter itself if it has a crack, pump to case seal and bolts, plug for the front band lever shaft, vent hole at top of pump.

The aluminum pans also add rigidity to the case, and some builds use studs to save the threads in the case.

Chris Andrews Racing Transmission in Parker Colorado uses the studs and aluminum trans pans with their builds.
https://www.facebook.com/andrewsracingtrans/
 
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