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1968 Charger, Ray Barton 528 Hemi, Pro-touring.

It's nice to have something large and square to hang the roof liner on.

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Wonder if a dry cleaner's pants leg press would do the job. I'd want to watch if possible.
 
I was saying take headliner to a dry cleaner or laundry and have them press on there machine. Only concern is it being to hot and melting headliner? Might take 10 mins to press.
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Shifter and line lock with hidden wiring is completed.
Grinded a slot on the front side of the shifter just big enough for the cable.
Pushed the cable in and filled the slot with epoxy. After this hardened I slapped some bondo on it, sanded it down and painted it with cast iron paint.
Did my best on staining the all black handle with some silver paint to mimic the black/Grey woodgrain.

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Shifter and line lock with hidden wiring is completed.
Grinded a slot on the front side of the shifter just big enough for the cable.
Pushed the cable in and filled the slot with epoxy. After this hardened I slapped some bondo on it, sanded it down and painted it with cast iron paint.
Did my best on staining the all black handle with some silver paint to mimic the black/Grey woodgrain.

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:lowdown::lowdown:
 
I was supposed to keep working on the wiring but I ended up fabricating a battery shelf for the trunk instead.. i guess it's sort of electrical atleast. I had some Mercedes battery supports that I used for bolting down both batteries.
Painted it with Plastikotes Rebuilders cast finish so it's matching with the filler tube.
I'll probably end up hiding it all when the audio system gets completed sometime in the future, far, far away.

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Done.. zinc-plated the Mercedes brackets also, just couldn't stop myself.
Thinking of getting a battery-selector like they use in boats. Anyone done the same?

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Why 2 batteries?
 
Not much interesting to show. Working on the wiring and I'm almost finished with the front end. Trying to hide it all and laying it out neat and tidy. Wrapping and securing everything with the poly cable socks takes some time but I really like the looks of it.
Received a lot of misc stuff like led buttons from Custom billet buttons, moroso u-joint brackets for the drive shaft, u--joints, a lot of clips and trim fasteners, glass seals, oils, etc etc.. just an endless list of small stuff making my wallet a lot thinner.. it all ads up!
But, on the bright side, start up is getting real close now.

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Not much interesting to show. Working on the wiring and I'm almost finished with the front end. Trying to hide it all and laying it out neat and tidy. Wrapping and securing everything with the poly cable socks takes some time but I really like the looks of it.
Received a lot of misc stuff like led buttons from Custom billet buttons, moroso u-joint brackets for the drive shaft, u--joints, a lot of clips and trim fasteners, glass seals, oils, etc etc.. just an endless list of small stuff making my wallet a lot thinner.. it all ads up!
But, on the bright side, start up is getting real close now.

Looks great! Do you have any more pictures of the center console bezel work? Is that the same vinyl you used on the dash? I have the same console and am trying to figure out what to do about the old cutout for the Challenger HVAC controls. The plan was to use cut out some more and stick a Holley 7.5" digital dash in there. Great work, very clean!

-Rick
 
Looks great! Do you have any more pictures of the center console bezel work? Is that the same vinyl you used on the dash? I have the same console and am trying to figure out what to do about the old cutout for the Challenger HVAC controls. The plan was to use cut out some more and stick a Holley 7.5" digital dash in there. Great work, very clean!

-Rick
It's not finished yet. Going to drill holes for some switches where the hvac controls were.
I got some ABS plastic that I shaped and epoxysealed into the cutout. After that i used the dremel to even everything out roughly before bondo and sanding.

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Working on the wiring and was going to complete the front end with mounting my new shiny side markers... 4 out of 4 was broken from the box.. chinese crap I guess.
See the white plastic ring? That shouldn't be lose. I discovered this when I tried powering them up. So what to do. I don't have time to wait for replacements so I'll just convert them to led's.
Fitted new oil sender(wish I'd done that when the engine was outside of the car!), water temp sender and fuel pressure gauge since the old one was broken.

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Damn it, fucked up again..
Got my new u-joint and Moroso straps. Pressed out the old u-joint which was really stuck in there. Pressed in the new one in the drive-shaft. Greased everything and crawled in under the car. And of course, it didn't fit the Dana 60 yoke I have.. it is the large 92mm that I have but the caps should be slightly smaller in diameter! My joint is 92*92mm with 28,5*28,5mm caps. But what I really need is 92*92mm with 28,5*27mm caps. Damn...
And of course this type of u-joint wasn't available on any of the local webshops I know of. I've read somewhere that caps are interchangeable. Meaning that I could find a 92*92mm with 27*27mm caps and just move over two of the 27mm caps to my already fitted u-joint with the 28,5mm caps? Anyone heard of this?

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Update! My local US car parts dealer saved the day, they found the correct U-joint and straps and will have them ready for me by tomorrow morning (along with some other small stuff). God bless 'em..:thumbsup:
 
Glad you got it sorted.

A U-joint is only one small part of a car, but you don't go very far without one!
 
You may only need to take the cups off the u-joint in the drive shaft now and take the cups off the one your parts dealer supplies you. Your dana yoke looks like it's for a 1330, I've found that the cross shaft for 1330, 7290 and 1350 u-joints to be the same. Only difference is cup diameter. Just measure cross shaft where needle bearing ride.
 
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