727 Reverse Band Adjustment Tool

MoparGuy68 · May 23, 2021

What tools do you guys use to adjust the 727 Reverse Band? The service manual says to tighten the 4 sided bolt to 72 inch pounds, then back off 2.5 turns. To do this using a special wrench and adapter.

The guy in this video uses a Tap driver with a female 3/8” socket hole on the rear end of it. I can only find Tap drivers with T-handles, which cannot be used with a torque wrench.

Cannot find a 4 sided socket to fit this strange band adjusting bolt.

How do you guys adjust the bolt without using the “special” tools listed in the manual? Or is the Tap drive that with a socket, like in the video the only way?

Frank Mopar · May 23, 2021

Snug the band gently and back it off. No need for a torque wrench

MoparGuy68 · May 23, 2021

Frank Mopar said:
Snug the band gently and back it off. No need for a torque wrench

A 5/16” open end is the closest fit on the bolt, but a little loose. I also have a small adjustable wrench I could use. So just tighten the bolt till it feels snug, then back off required turns..

1 Wild R/T · May 23, 2021

You'll find it turns pretty easy & then when you hit the spot the torque goes from less than 10 in/lbs to 100+ in/lbs in less than 1/4 turn.... Generally they give you 1/4 turn range on the adjustment so just set it & forget it... I have a 5/16" square socket & in/lb torque wrench, I don't even break them out anymore....

Fran Blacker · May 23, 2021

I hate to buy tools I'm only going to once, like square sockets. I've used those sockets many times, never thought I would've.

MoparGuy68 · May 23, 2021

Service manual says to drain the torque converter when changing the fluid and filter. I’ve never drained a converter before..

It looks like my drain plug is not very accessible at the current position of the crankshaft. I suppose I’d need to crank the engine without starting, to move the plug further down toward the bottom. I’m a bit worried that if I remove it, then put it back in, it may start leaking. Currently the plug area is dry..

Maybe I could skip draining the converter. In several videos I’ve seen of pan gasket and filter replacement, the guys don’t drain the converter.. I’m trying to get this entire pan replacement done today.. won’t be able to work on it next weekend. And the weekend after that the high is going to be about 100°.

If I slightly crank the engine with the trans pan off, will fluid go shooting out of the valve body area with great pressure??

1 Wild R/T · May 23, 2021

How was the fluid in the pan? If it was clean & bright red with a fresh smell I wouldn't worry about it, If it's dark & smells burnt I'd drain the convertor... 1 1/4" socket on the front damper works, as does a 9/16" wrench on the bolts attaching the convertor to the flex plate....
The drain plug is tapered pipe thread so it won't leak...

oldkimmer · May 23, 2021

U need a 1 1/4 socket and short extension to turn the crank. If your fluid is nice and bright red and doesn’t stink, think burnt smell, then u r probably good. After1976 or so converters didn’t have a drain plug. As stated snug with a short open end wrench will do the job. Backed off the number of turns stated. Dam, I got tree’d. Kim

MoparGuy68 · May 23, 2021

1 Wild R/T said:
How was the fluid in the pan? If it was clean & bright red with a fresh smell I wouldn't worry about it, If it's dark & smells burnt I'd drain the convertor... 1 1/4" socket on the front damper works, as does a 9/16" wrench on the bolts attaching the convertor to the flex plate....
The drain plug is tapered pipe thread so it won't leak...

Fluid is bright red and looks clean! No evidence of burning, smell or appearance wise.

What direction should the crank be turned? I don’t remember what direction the engine rotate. Counter-clockwise when standing in front of the car, clockwise when sitting in the car looking forward?

oldkimmer · May 23, 2021

It doesn’t really matter. From the front it turns clockwise. Kim

1 Wild R/T · May 23, 2021

I've seen convertor drains well into the 70's on stock convertors.... Aftermarket not so much..

MoparGuy68 · May 23, 2021

I think I’ll leave the converter as is and not drain. I’ve been having to add fresh transmission fluid, due to leaking, ever since I’ve had the car for almost a year and a half. All fluid that has leaked out over that time has been bright red and smells normal.

1 Wild R/T · May 23, 2021

MoparGuy68 said:
Fluid is bright red and looks clean! No evidence of burning, smell or appearance wise.

What direction should the crank be turned? I don’t remember what direction the engine rotate. Counter-clockwise when standing in front of the car, clockwise when sitting in the car looking forward?

I turn it in such a way as to tighten the bolts... If you go the other way the bolt loosens & you gain nothing... I've heard the tails of the timing chain will slip... Well if that were to happen the chain is so loose it's best you not run the engine anyway....

MoparGuy68 · May 23, 2021

Oh, new pan gasket, install it dry or coat it lightly with trans fluid on each side before install?

I’m using the black gasket included with the pan from TCI. Couldn’t obtain a Mopar gasket from my Dodge dealer yesterday the parts department was closed.

oldkimmer · May 23, 2021

Never put anything on the pan gasket. Just install it dry. Kim

1 Wild R/T · May 23, 2021

IMO Dry, definitely not trans fluid

727 Reverse Band Adjustment Tool

MoparGuy68

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Frank Mopar

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MoparGuy68

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1 Wild R/T

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Fran Blacker

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MoparGuy68

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1 Wild R/T

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oldkimmer

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MoparGuy68

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oldkimmer

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1 Wild R/T

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MoparGuy68

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1 Wild R/T

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MoparGuy68

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oldkimmer

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1 Wild R/T

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