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After the catastrophe

"Less than 100 miles on the engine and hitting triple digits"... These results are not overly surprising.
 
Its a roller motor. No cam break in, just give the rings time to seat, and go. 130 MPH is under 5000 RPM with my gears. She was running under 200°. It was all good, till it wasnt.

Besides, what do they happens when you have a new build engine broke in on a dyno?
 
Bottom line

The engine builder didn’t install the freeze plugs CORRECTLY

It cost you a motor - Headaches - Your wasted time

Almost a year later , nothing has been resolved or fixed CORRECTLY

They placed band aids where needed and expect you to put it together

Obviously your not happy or you wouldn’t be on here asking questions
Honestly , I would bee pissed

And look to start completely over

You know what needs to bee done , but at what price , and how do you get resolution out of the machine shop or engine builder as it boils right down to it (No Pun Intended)
 
Suggested in a post that engine compression got into cooling system and blew out freeze plug. If that happened can't blame machine shop. Sad that it happened, going to cost to fix. What do crank journals look like? Bet some polishing is in order.
 
You know what needs to bee done , but at what price , and how do you get resolution out of the machine shop or engine builder as it boils right down to it (No Pun Intended)

At what price? So far a new set of pistons, rings, rod bearings from 440 Source to replace what is in there now is around, $950. TF bare head casting is another $950. Throw in gaskets and machine work to surface the new head casting to make it match the other one the other shop resurfaced. It is going to be a $2000+ mistake.

I am going to call the engine builder today. Tell him what I found, see if he is willing to cover the cost, or some of the cost. I am not going to let him have the engine back, period.

Hindsight? A good friend told me 2 years ago I should lay the crank and build the bottom end myself from the get go. Just have a shop do the machine work. This same friend is the one who told me yesterday that the pistons are toast, He started talking about metallurgy and my eyes started to hurt. At minimum ball hone the cylinders, new pistons, rings, bearings, and head. I should have listened to him 2 years ago. I am following his advice this time. BTW, he is a retired automotive engineer, restorer, and hobbyist engine rebuilder. Good friend to have.
 
Did the op gave up the name of the shop that built his short block?
 
Suggested in a post that engine compression got into cooling system and blew out freeze plug. If that happened can't blame machine shop. Sad that it happened, going to cost to fix. What do crank journals look like? Bet some polishing is in order.

The head gasket blew out between #3 and #5 cylinders. No gasket damage by any of the coolant passages.

Did the op gave up the name of the shop that built his short block?

I have kept the name of the shop to myself, till now. It was Basko Engine Service in Gilbert Arizona who did the original short block build for me.
 
Today I took all the disassembled engine parts to Morrison Auto Machine in Glendale Arizona. They did the block prep on my 383 I just put together for my 73. That engine went together easily and runs fantastic. I wanted them to look at it all the parts together, and tell me what it needs. I was expecting to hear what I already suspected. The pistons are toast, ball hone the cylinders, new bearings and reassemble. But, not the case.

They agreed that the pistons are probably no longer round, but they will check to be sure, The scored and chewed up ones must be replaced. Best to buy a set. And, the fit of the main bearings and the crank bearings looks to be way to tight. They show signs of contact. And, #4 cam bearing is scored, bad fit too. Plus, they must re surface the block and heads if I want to use Cometic gaskets. They did not like the finish how it was left from Basko. They also asked about line hone, was it done the first time? Which it was not. They want to check the mains, and line hone if needed and with new ARP main bolts.

I am no engine building expert. But to me this sounds like my engine was doomed from the beginning. Amateur machine work and assembly at Basko, the first shop.

So I am starting over. Probably going to be a very expensive fiasco.
 
Today I took all the disassembled engine parts to Morrison Auto Machine in Glendale Arizona. They did the block prep on my 383 I just put together for my 73. That engine went together easily and runs fantastic. I wanted them to look at it all the parts together, and tell me what it needs. I was expecting to hear what I already suspected. The pistons are toast, ball hone the cylinders, new bearings and reassemble. But, not the case.

They agreed that the pistons are probably no longer round, but they will check to be sure, The scored and chewed up ones must be replaced. Best to buy a set. And, the fit of the main bearings and the crank bearings looks to be way to tight. They show signs of contact. And, #4 cam bearing is scored, bad fit too. Plus, they must re surface the block and heads if I want to use Cometic gaskets. They did not like the finish how it was left from Basko. They also asked about line hone, was it done the first time? Which it was not. They want to check the mains, and line hone if needed and with new ARP main bolts.

I am no engine building expert. But to me this sounds like my engine was doomed from the beginning. Amateur machine work and assembly at Basko, the first shop.

So I am starting over. Probably going to be a very expensive fiasco.

Sorry to hear that Paul.
 
I'm in the "build your own" camp so there's no one to blame but myself. Last few years I've acquired more of the measuring tools needed to confirm a shops work. Bore gauge, 0-6" mic set, etc so I can verify more specs/dimensions before assembly. Not saying it would never fail if I built it but I think I have a better chance to catch a potential problem before it goes together.
 
Dam, that totally sucks the big one. I feel ur pain. We all want to believe that the machinests are gods. But they are only human. Some own up to their mistakes, others don’t. But when u assamble it yourself you pretty much have taken away any of their responsibility. I have never in my life have a frost plug blow out. Kim
 
Today I took all the disassembled engine parts to Morrison Auto Machine in Glendale Arizona. They did the block prep on my 383 I just put together for my 73. That engine went together easily and runs fantastic. I wanted them to look at it all the parts together, and tell me what it needs. I was expecting to hear what I already suspected. The pistons are toast, ball hone the cylinders, new bearings and reassemble. But, not the case.

They agreed that the pistons are probably no longer round, but they will check to be sure, The scored and chewed up ones must be replaced. Best to buy a set. And, the fit of the main bearings and the crank bearings looks to be way to tight. They show signs of contact. And, #4 cam bearing is scored, bad fit too. Plus, they must re surface the block and heads if I want to use Cometic gaskets. They did not like the finish how it was left from Basko. They also asked about line hone, was it done the first time? Which it was not. They want to check the mains, and line hone if needed and with new ARP main bolts.

I am no engine building expert. But to me this sounds like my engine was doomed from the beginning. Amateur machine work and assembly at Basko, the first shop.

So I am starting over. Probably going to be a very expensive fiasco.
Sorry to hear Paul, not many good engine builders left in the valley anymore. What did you put the 505 in?
 
Dam, that totally sucks the big one. I feel ur pain. We all want to believe that the machinests are gods. But they are only human. Some own up to their mistakes, others don’t. But when u assamble it yourself you pretty much have taken away any of their responsibility. I have never in my life have a frost plug blow out. Kim
The machine shop built the short block for me. They put the stroker crank in it, cam bearings, and freeze plugs at their shop.
 
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Is it as simple as they didn't get the finish right on the decks / heads for the head gaskets?
 
IMO....
they didn't heat the head sufficiently before welding...... you gotta Tiger Torch the frigg'in things until damn near 800* then WELD.... or when you surface that's what you will get is a separation mark between the patch and parent alloys.(basically porosity between the two)

If it's a 'new' build with only 100 Miles and it was our fault ?
We'd have to eat a new Head Casting and replace it.... we've had to before, that's why nothing leaves anymore until we've Dyno'd it now to the Customers satisfaction....,. in the Customer's presence.
and
Pistons & Rings(next O/S)
ALL Bearings
and on
and on
 
Due to a lack of preheat (sufficiently) and a correct filler material, it demonstrates a severe case of lack of fusion ! I would take it to a test lab and have it verified and documented! Then take your evidence to the shop that did the work and make a legitimate claim! Take plenty of photos, of everything you see ! Aws-Cwi welding inspector , of course this is my opinion only by looking at photos, and can only state from what I see here !
 
2 cents....
get who-ever Machines it..... to Assemble it..... and Dyno it..... in your presence, to your satisfaction.... before acceptance of the final product.

Just say'in....
that's the ONLY way we work here at our Shop.... and also WHY we won't do any 'partial' assemblies whatsoever.
It either leaves as a "Machine Pkg" complete with all Clearances/Torques and Specs recorded.... which we are glad to go over with and show you BEFORE it leaves
or,
it leaves as a Complete/Finished and Dyno Proven product in your presence.

NO FINGER POINTING ALLOWED !
 
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