1960's Super Stock class ??
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s5757s
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Super Stock / D Automatic. Back in the day they destinquished between automatic and manual shift classes
Super Stock/D Automatic. ruffcut
A little off topic but your question been answered. Have you taken a wrench (1-1/8")to the harmonic balancer bolt and tried to turn the engine over? Looks like no spark tubes and maybe no spark plugs. Any pictures of your friend with or without the car. Take lots of pictures as you work on car. I wish there was digital cameras when I bought my car. Original owner let me take pictures of pictures when he owned it.
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R413
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Classes start at A and it goes by the highest power to weight ratio. Factory listed shipping weight and factory rated horsepower. So SS/DA is the 4th class from the top. The A On the end is automatic. It would be SS/D for a manual. By 1970.a cuda and challenger with a hemi was in SS/D, the B bodies moved to a lower class, heavier car.
The sanctioning body can add horsepower to a combination if it goes to quick, so the class and car weight can change over time. To keep it fair. LOL
in 1967 the class index was not 10.20
Back in the day there were many suctioning bodies and they had their own rules and allowed combinations. The indexes did vary widely.
in 2021 the stock eliminator cars are faster than 1970 pro stock cars were at that time.
type in “nhra super stock national index” to see the current 2021 page. You can get an idea of the variety. My machine is faulty today and can’t post it.
The sanctioning body can add horsepower to a combination if it goes to quick, so the class and car weight can change over time. To keep it fair. LOL
in 1967 the class index was not 10.20
Back in the day there were many suctioning bodies and they had their own rules and allowed combinations. The indexes did vary widely.
in 2021 the stock eliminator cars are faster than 1970 pro stock cars were at that time.
type in “nhra super stock national index” to see the current 2021 page. You can get an idea of the variety. My machine is faulty today and can’t post it.
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Here's a link to some history of Pro Stock.....
https://www.nhra.com/news/2020/50-years-pro-stock-salute-it-all-started-1970-winternationals
https://www.nhra.com/news/2020/50-years-pro-stock-salute-it-all-started-1970-winternationals
Darter6
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Hemi2Much
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Thank You for your detailed description.
Hemi2Much
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I have not even tried.
My thoughts = Don't try to turn the engine over at all.
I know the engine has been sitting inside of a barn for well over 30 years with no sparkplugs and no intake. If there is rust in the cylinders, I don't want to scar up the walls any worse than they already are.
I'm going to be pulling the engine out this weekend and remove the heads.
If the cylinders look ok at that point I will try to turn it over.
If not I will remove the oil pan and remove the pistons from the bottom.
Runcharger
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That's the right plan.
Nate S
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The pistons won't come out the bottom, up is the only way to go.
Hemi2Much
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If you remove the crank, the pistons won't come out the bottom?
Even if they don't come out the bottom I can still remove the crank and move all the pistons down as far as possible and hone out the cylinders to remove as much rust as I can. the try to get them to come out the top. But if there is rust in the cylinders You'd think it would be better to pull them from the crank side (Bottom).
What are your thoughts?
The cast 10/6/66 is to late for a 66 car. Your plan to clean cylinder before removing pistons is good but they come out the top.
65wgn440
Well-Known Member
Every Chrysler V8 I have ever worked on had a 1 1/4" crank snout bolt.
Memory lapse, been awhile since I've turn one with wrench or socket. You've jogged my memory.
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