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My Mopar Journey - '66 Charger progress.

jmbass98

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Posting this not only for self-motivation to continue working on this car and document it for personal pride... But also for advice and help along the way.

1966 Charger. Original 361ci car. 3 speed automatic Torqueflight.

What I have changed:
  • brand new 4bbl Edelbrock intake and carburetor (I have the original 2bbl intake and Carter carburetor)
  • brand new mechanical distributor, spark plugs, plug wires, and ignition coil (MSD)
  • brand new timing chain and water pump
The issues:

Currently it does not start. After someone replaced my timing chain and water pump, I started having strange electrical issues. Amp gauge would drop when power draw was occurring (headlights, brakes, etc.) but would not increase charge with RPM as it was before. Windshield wipers were not functioning as they should (they would go up and stutter back down, sometimes parking midway through, sometimes not even working at all, and anywhere in between). These issues persisted until one day the car just did not start any longer. It would crank, start to fire, go back to cranking, and repeat that cycle until the battery just died.

So right now, this is what I am working on to try and fix the issues (as they seem power related):
  • new engine and forward light harness from YearOne
  • new battery, positive and negative battery cables, relays, ballast, etc. misc. electrical things in engine compartment
  • new 85 amp alternator from Powermaster
  • new ignition switch
  • MAYBE a new starter
  • cleaning of bulkhead disconnect, any grounding surface, etc.
If anyone has any ideas as far as any of those issues go... I am all ears. I will be updating this after every session that I manage to get in on the car.

I will also post pictures when it stops raining.

Thanks!

Edit:

I should clarify that the car functioned properly prior to the new timing chain and water pump.
 
Last edited:
I guess I should have asked specifically. Any ideas on what could have happened during that new water pump and timing chain that could have created those electrical issues?
 
Posting this not only for self-motivation to continue working on this car and document it for personal pride... But also for advice and help along the way.

1966 Charger. Original 361ci car. 3 speed automatic Torqueflight.

What I have changed:
  • brand new 4bbl Edelbrock intake and carburetor (I have the original 2bbl intake and Carter carburetor)
  • brand new mechanical distributor, spark plugs, plug wires, and ignition coil (MSD)
  • brand new timing chain and water pump
The issues:

Currently it does not start. After someone replaced my timing chain and water pump, I started having strange electrical issues. Amp gauge would drop when power draw was occurring (headlights, brakes, etc.) but would not increase charge with RPM as it was before. Windshield wipers were not functioning as they should (they would go up and stutter back down, sometimes parking midway through, sometimes not even working at all, and anywhere in between). These issues persisted until one day the car just did not start any longer. It would crank, start to fire, go back to cranking, and repeat that cycle until the battery just died.

So right now, this is what I am working on to try and fix the issues (as they seem power related):
  • new engine and forward light harness from YearOne
  • new battery, positive and negative battery cables, relays, ballast, etc. misc. electrical things in engine compartment
  • new 85 amp alternator from Powermaster
  • new ignition switch
  • MAYBE a new starter
  • cleaning of bulkhead disconnect, any grounding surface, etc.
If anyone has any ideas as far as any of those issues go... I am all ears. I will be updating this after every session that I manage to get in on the car.

I will also post pictures when it stops raining.

Thanks!
Check the firewall bulkhead for burnt terminals, That's the problem with my 66
 
Also check your main ground cable off the battery, not sure on a 66 but make sure a ground cable is attached to the engine.
 
Well to answer the question directly, replacing the WP and timing chain should not have any effect on your electrical system. Could be the guy who did messed with something else for some reason or it could be just a coincidence.
 
I agree with the other guys re electrical connections and proper grounding. Poor grounds can cause some very weird and inconsistent symptoms. I suggest to get a good wiring schematic then follow each affected circuit making sure all is in order. To change out the water pump and timing chain he would have to have removed the alternator so I suggest to start there. I once had some connections problems at the firewall bulkhead on my 66 Coronet so I separated the harness from the bulkhead and cleaned each of the terminals the best I could with a small wire brush and tiny strips of 220 sand paper. Then blow out with air. Most importantly when working on on cars, have fun and don't get overwhelmed. Break tasks down into small parts. Fix one problem at a time. You will build confidence and feel a sense of accomplishment with each small success. Best of luck! You'll find it.
 
Couple things. Does anyone know what the wire from the first pic is? I can't find it in my schematic. It runs over the top of the transmission. Second, how would I go about cleaning the bulkhead disconnect? Is it fairly simple to replace this if I have to?

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jOhZz6d.jpg
 
The wire connects the neutral safety switch on the transmission with the starter relay. It should not run over the transmission. It exits the neutral safety switch on the left side and continues on the left side of the motor and trans (at the inner fender side) to the relay. For a temporary solution you could spray the bulkhead connectors with a spray used to clean electrical connections. However, replacing the wires in the bulkhead connectors is inevitable; they are just too old. To take it off you push hard on the four metal corners you see in last photo and the b. connector will go through the hole it sits in and you then take it out from the inside. I will also suggest that you should bypass the ammeter when you replace the electrical wires because, if it is original, it will eventually cause a short out and possible a fire (don´t ask me how I know).
Ragnar in Iceland
 
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