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Steering a little sloppy. Adjustment?

Mark1972

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So my steering has always been a little loose. This became more noticeable when the LA came out and the RB went in. Entire front suspension and steering components are new, and wheel alignment is fine. Tire pressure proper and equal. I was told there was an adjustment on the steering box. A set screw with a jam nut on it. I located it, raised the front of the car, loosened the nut, and starting tightening the screw. Question. How much can the screw be tightened before you should consider replacing or rebuilding the steering box? I've only gone half a turn, but it didn't really make a difference and I don't want to over do it.
 
Look in the FSM there is also another adjustment on the end of the box, that big hex ring ..


2007-09-15_000607_saginaw.jpg
 
I've played around with adjustments on steering boxes with little change. If you aren't use to mopar steering boxes you'll find them sloppy. I've had them rebuilt and still found them loose, at least compared to a rack and pinion feel. My latest purchase was a rebuilt police steering box from an old Chrysler. I'm happier with it but if you want true tight responsive steering you'll need to get into a Firmfeel box.

http://firmfeel.com/
 
Yes, as per FSM, you should check / adjust the worm shaft bearing adjustment first (a low range inch pound torque wrench (beam style) is required. Then proceed to the pitman shaft adjustment. If the worm shaft bearings are loose, any other adjustment will be moot.
 
The steering got sloppy on my 1967 R/T. I found that the bolts attaching the steering box to the K-member had loosened up, allowing the box to move around. I figure the paint on the K-member and box had broken down, reducing torque on bolts. I cleaned up the mating surfaces and reinstalled the bolts, using red Loctite. Everything has been fine since.
 
Does yours have the "normal" shaft coupler with the oblong tube and shoes in it?
You can test that by turning the steering shaft by hand under the hood and watch what happens at the input shaft to the steering box.
I think some later 70's had a rag joint but pretty sure yours has the metal tube.
 
When tightening that screw, make sure the wheels are straight ahead. The worm gear / sector is tighter there for straight driving and looser everywhere else. If you tighten elsewhere it'll be too tight in the middle.
 
If the nut is overtightened you'll lose the wheel return or some of it forcing you to manually turn the steering wheel back to straight after turning. Worn gearing requires a rebuild or better yet, as posted above, the FFII box is fantastic. You have to make some alignment adjustments as well...moving away from OEM spec's. There's several other threads on this you can look up on this. Very informative.
 
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