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What is your favorite Ignition setup

Canadian1968

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My latest obsession is the ignition system, my latest attempt at a frakenstine HEI setup has failed so far.

Got me wondering , what other kind of setups are out there. I have glazed over post about people mentioning 1 wire setups and RTR , MSD ect. But honestly don't know much about them

My current setup is a the basic MOPAR electronic setup, with distributor, orange ECU, and SF MSD coil. To be honest I feel it works pretty good over all, but there is always that voice in the back of my head that says, there is something better.

Not that I am in any rush to change up the system. But I am curious, what are you guys running , what do you like, what don't you like ? How important do you feel it is over all on bolt on motor or a mild build ?? I am not talking about full out race engine here either... I mean there are few that need a ignition system that could double as a mig welder !.
 
I switched to Pertronics Ignitor ll a few years ago from points, condenser, and ballast resistor. I learned back in the 70s that electronic Ignition was more reliable and had more powerful spark. When I got this car 5 years ago it was the original setup except the distributor had been replaced. I put in all new original pieces including new coil to get it started and set up point gap. Car fired up fine, but idle just seemed kind of weak and uneven. Car ran good. I converted to Ignitor ll only because I wanted electronic ignition and the idle now was great. 45000 vs 15000 volts certainly makes a big difference. Spark plugs stay cleaner and don't have to keep spare ballast resistors. Can I give you any performance or mpg improvement figures, No. Just the fact that if the idle was improved greatly, I feel the detonation power thru the rpm range must have improved also. Just one man's unscientific opinion.
 
Factory, recurved, magnetic trigger distributor, fired by a [insert your favorite brand name] multiple spark, rev-limiter box.
 
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I went low buck with my 65 318 and used a HEI module screwed to the bottom (with adapter) of a Rock Auto Mopar replacement for the OEM electronic distributor and a Ford replacement coil from RA. I'm using a Stromberg ww3 (that needs a new pump plunger) and when warmed up it starts faster than anything I can remember owning.
Mike
 
I run hei on my dart. Only gone out 1 time in 15 years. Have not decided my motor/ fuel delivery for my 68 charger but will be hei if I go carborated.
 
I have a couple msd distributors in use with analog 6al boxes. I avoid the digital boxes, way too many complaints about reliability.
My favorite ignition? My cast iron tach drive direct connection distributor from the eighties, with an original reman mallory 690 box (the fifteen pound one, not the rebranded msd box dressed up as a mallory 690) and the matching reman mallory coil. Bought the mallory stuff from super shops, also in the eighties.
Still working great!
 
I have a couple msd distributors in use with analog 6al boxes. I avoid the digital boxes, way too many complaints about reliability.
My favorite ignition? My cast iron tach drive direct connection distributor from the eighties, with an original reman mallory 690 box (the fifteen pound one, not the rebranded msd box dressed up as a mallory 690) and the matching reman mallory coil. Bought the mallory stuff from super shops, also in the eighties.
Still working great!
I agree, I stay away from the MSD digital boxes.
 
I've also had the factory electronic ignition and upgraded to the MSD 6. Then to the pertronix self-contained distributor with good results. Now that I am sequentially EFI was a crank trigger and a cam sensor running LS1 coil packs, and the Holly controller there's no substitute for the programmability of it.
 
I've also had the factory electronic ignition and upgraded to the MSD 6. Then to the pertronix self-contained distributor with good results. Now that I am sequentially EFI was a crank trigger and a cam sensor running LS1 coil packs, and the Holly controller there's no substitute for the programmability of it.
What are you running that on? Pictures please.
 
It sure depends on your application, what you use it for. There are many versions of "orange box" ECU's. The HP upgrades from Mopar as well as other unknown aftermarket stuff. I thought the orange box was NOT that great for drag racing, but to each their own. MSD's should give a little quicker start and keep the plugs cleaner than a typical ECU. Not familiar with the HEI stuff. My Satellite currently has a Crane HI 6, it works great both on the street & track.
On my drag cars I used the Mallory dual point from early 70's, worked good, Mopar DC "race blue box" worked great, MSD 404BC, worked great.
 
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I keep it simple, either old school points or the good'ol tried and true trustworthy orange box and a mopar performance advance curve distributor.
 
There are literally dozens of options out there. Nothing wrong with Mopar either points that have worked forever of the electronic if you get a real ecu, way to many fake ones out there. If you race then it is a whole different can of worms you are looking for the 1/10 of a second gain. Tons of great products out there. Personally a driver/cruiser stock is fine if maintained. Heck a good points system does not have to be touched for 10K miles, so how many years is that for most of us? Biggest thing is to make sure the distributor has a curve at east close to what you need. MP out of the box are great for the strip (full in fast) not so great for cruising. Same with most of the plug and pay one wires. Store bought you can get lucky on, most are rebuilt so they fit in a span of years so it is a crapshoot. Just IMO.
 
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Ray spoke we need to pay attention his is the ignition leader! (Lol, Ray is a great guy and very sharp) I really believe there are lots of good products , it all depends on quality and application . I recall guys saying their idle would clean up with a old MSD box.. The new MSD seems watered down and looks like accel parts in another color.. I personally like oem for my application points or electronic I have both and no issues the key is good USA parts will keep you on the road and off the hook!
 
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